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Overthinking my lower control arms?

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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 03:38 AM
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Wyle E Coyote's Avatar
Wyle E Coyote
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Default Overthinking my lower control arms?

After tearing apart my truck and discovering the issue with the rusted in place Lower Control Arm (LCA) bolts, I started thinking about how to prevent this from happening again. My first thought was to have the bolts powder coated so that they wouldn't rust up, but then I'd have to have them machined down first so they would fit back into the sleeves on the bushings. Then I had the idea to drill a passageway in the arm and put a grease zerk on the LCAs. But I dont think that the regular chassis grease would be able to surround the bolt due to the tight clearances. I don't know how long a coating of any kind of standard anti-sieze would last. So I thought of just using Kroil (or something similar) sprayed down the passage, then cap it with a small machine bolt, and add oil every time I service the truck. What are your thoughts?

I have to say though, I'm quite disappointed in how Dodge designed this set-up. You can't tell me that, even 10 years ago, that they wouldn't have known that this would likely be how their suspension would be. But on the upside, I thought that the truck drove very nice when I had all of the rusted-up and rotten parts under there. Once I'm done, it should drive like a dream!
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 10:08 AM
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It's really a non-serviceable part. Only time this is an issue is when you want to change the LCA, right? How many times are you planning on taking off the lower control arms? Overthinking it IMO.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 01:16 PM
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^^^^ Truth
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 04:05 PM
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Yes, imho you are overthinking it. The only time the lca bolts need to move are for replacing the lca or for doing a wheel alignment. If you are doing wheel alignments when installing new tires, that should be in 2 to 3 year intervals. Which is often enough to prevent the bolts from completely seizing in the bushings. When lca is replaced, it is advised to also replace the bolts.
To extend the serviceability and the longevity of the bolts and the bushings in between times; a very liberal coat of copper anti seize on the shank does wonders. Nothing more to it.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 11:54 PM
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Ok, yes it’s likely that I’ll never do this again. But as I thought about this, the seized bolts could explain my strange tire wear and handling issues. Once those seize up, the bushing doesn’t rotate on the bolt. So then the rubber bushing twists, which it’s not really designed to do. And I’m sure that it contributed to the problem. And I’m more than willing to take an additional step or two to ensure that the truck functions as it was intended for a long time. 😊
 
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 01:17 AM
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The bushing does not, should not, rotate on the bolt during normal operation. Once in position (wheels properly aligned) the bushing inner sleeve is clamped tightly in the frame by the bolt pressure. The control arm moves about the bolt, flexing the rubber. The sleeve does not move. That is normal operation. Odd tire wear and poor handling is a wheel alignment problem or lack there of, and/or loose bolts and worn components.

Strongly recommend finishing up your repairs, then taking the truck to a reputable (locally for you) shop to have a proper wheel alignment completed.
 

Last edited by FaceDeAce; Apr 6, 2018 at 01:14 PM.
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Wyle E Coyote
Ok, yes it’s likely that I’ll never do this again. But as I thought about this, the seized bolts could explain my strange tire wear and handling issues. Once those seize up, the bushing doesn’t rotate on the bolt. So then the rubber bushing twists, which it’s not really designed to do. And I’m sure that it contributed to the problem. And I’m more than willing to take an additional step or two to ensure that the truck functions as it was intended for a long time. ��
As Ace stated, thats the way it's supposed to work.
 
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