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2010 Dodge Dakota Looking To Add Heated Defrost Mirrors / Tow Mirrors

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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 03:10 PM
  #11  
philipat's Avatar
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Here's a few more diagrams:


2009 Dakota Laramie Mirror Wiring



2010-2011 Dakota Laramie Mirror Wiring



2008 Dakota Laramie Heated Backlite Wiring


2011 Dakota Laramie Heated Backlite Wiring
 

Last edited by philipat; Nov 4, 2018 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 09:45 AM
  #12  
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Thanks again for the additional diagram post Philipat the more I look them over it seems to make more sense to me I'm still hoping someone will pick up on this who has completed the project be nice to help guide me through the unknowns.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2019 | 01:13 PM
  #13  
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Just completed this! A few important facts about my starting point: 2005 SLT already had the defrost button for my rear window & had factory power mirrors.

Where to get them:
Been wanting to do this for a few years but couldn't resist anymore when I saw the passenger side listed for $15.99! I got this on
Amazon Amazon
but once I ordered mine the price through that seller jumped up to $48 like the rest of them. I looked at the seller's page before I ordered; https://www.autoshack.com/KAPCH1321237 and today they are still listing them for $16.15 and when I ordered mine they said they only had 2 in stock, today it's 12 units sold. The photo is wrong, perhaps why they haven't been able to sell them, it shows a 5x7 power folding mirror without the heat symbol, amazon said it would be a 6x9. I figured for $16 I'd risk it and a 6x9 folding power heated one arrived! It also warns on autoshack that it won't fit an 05 but 06 and newer it says is fine. Obviously it fit fine on my 05.

For my driver side I ordered this one on
Amazon Amazon
for $44.98. A few others were a couple bucks cheaper but this one took the time to list that it was a 6"x9" in the features while the others didn't specify.

Both arrived quickly, I think the non-prime one was just a day behind, and were exact mirror images of each other (pun intended). Seriously though the only difference was the sticker on the box, same protective parts, same blue bag to protect it from scratches and even the same color inspection sticker, obviously made in the same factory under multiple brands. So I think you can pick any in the ~$45 price range on amazon with a photo like my second link and be safe, happy deal hunting.

Whenever Autoshack sells out or realizes they are giving these away for wholesale or heck even at a loss the next best deal I found was at 1aauto.com sold in a pair for $86 (I was going to get these if my first two didn't work out, while all the how-to was still fresh in my mind). These are also the most accurate photos, you can even see the groove I talk about below.

I wasn't hanging out in the forum in November or I might have considered philipat's link but I'm actually glad I wasn't aware. The upgrade to the 6x9's I think is the max size that won't look silly on the truck & I've done plenty of towing, these will be a great improvement for towing my 8.5'x16' flatbed & are flatter on the back than my 5x7's and include a groove that might help some for attaching a temp extension when doing wide enclosed trailers. Plus it was $65 delivered v.s. $142. YMMV and sure if I used my Dak to make a living towing stuff around but I'm more of a tow my flatbed full of firewood home or home improvement building materials sometimes & camping trailer user.

Or if you want to be really proud of your OEM Mopar towing mirrors I did stumble across these telescoping ones on autotrucktoys.com which I probably would have went with since they pull out when you need them and slide back in when you don't but I didn't think that was cool enough to let go of $650.

Installation:
FYI My mirrors came with no instructions at all.

You'll need:
  • 10mm wrench/socket
  • Small & medium Phillips screwdriver.
  • Something to remove the screw cover trim piece, a small thin Flathead worked for me.

First you have to remove or pull back your interior trim panel, for 2nd gen Daks there is a youtube video that shows how you can just pull back the top part after just removing some of the trim screws, that does not work on ours as there is a.. hook & loop? ... attachment point at the top of our trim panel. You have to remove all 4 screws in order to be able to push it up and unhook it to pull the trim away from the mirror, plus I'm not sure you could get to the power connector even if you could access just the bolts. I spent a while trying to figure this out, afraid I might break something in my door panel, once I found this the rest was easy:
You can ignore the part about pulling out the window actuators and other details about separating the panel from the door, you just need to loosen it and let it hang down to access the window bolts and power connector. This video goes into extra details because it's for speaker replacement. Please consider liking the video, it saved me and in turn perhaps you from breaking pieces of my door panel. Pay attention to the part about removing the trim piece over the screw in the door handle, I had thought it went the other way and almost broke mine as I took it out before I found the video.

The rest was very straightforward:
Roll down your window all the way.
Optional: I disconnected my power mirror & plugged in my new mirror resting between the door and trim panel & ran the defroster to test the heat part worked before I continued. Figured I should test it before I took my old one off in-case I needed to return it.
Place your new mirror on the front seat.
Once the power mirror wire is disconnected remove 3 nuts with the 10 MM wrench/socket and the foam piece in the door panel around the wire & keep them nearby because you'll want to be holding the mirrors while able to reach your nuts so the mirror doesn't fall. I set them on the dash.
Wiggle the old mirror off, as mine had been attached for ~14 years I had to apply some pressure and wiggle a bit to get the old one loose.
Optional: There was a spot under mine that had been rubbed a bit beyond the paint, I wish I would have had an automotive paint pen to help prevent rust. I also cleaned the area but that's just how I am. There was more dust trapped in there than I'd expect.
Put the new mirror on, and reverse the steps.
Enjoy & don't forget to roll your window back up.
 

Last edited by EliteTempleton; Apr 14, 2019 at 01:54 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Apr 14, 2019 | 01:33 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Cangelo629
Thanks again for the additional diagram post Philipat the more I look them over it seems to make more sense to me I'm still hoping someone will pick up on this who has completed the project be nice to help guide me through the unknowns.
If you get the mirror heat to work there is an 05 Dak in my local salvage yard I've been picking at with a good rear defrost window, should be able to remove it with basically a putty knife and personally I'd just pay one of those shops that specialize in auto glass to mount it in since they have all the right adhesives and knowledge to do it right. That is if you wanted to trade your sliding window for a defrosted one.

There is also an 02 DAK with what I think is the same HVAC controls we have with the snowflake, I wasn't sure so I was going to take a photo before I took the time to take it as a spare. I'll be there next Saturday since I noticed it has an auto-dimming mirror but I have to figure out how to remove the headliner first so I can trace back the power wire, plus I didn't have a torx drive set with me. Anyway if I confirm they are the same I'll grab it should the one you got happen to not work or if someone on here can't get one. Worst case I have a spare for me.
 
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