2008 Rack and Pinion
I have a 2008 Dodge dakota 4X4. How do i get at the power steering lines on the rack and pinion. Maybe from the side, the top or the bottom? Doesn't seem to be much room. Any idea how long it takes to change the rack and pinion? Thanks for your help.
Did mine last year. Took better part of a day, but I also swapped the lines and pump while i was at it. Especially with the 4x4, those lines are tricky to get at. Getting them off is okay, putting them back on and tightening them was a pain.
Best way is to jack and remove tires, remove tie rod ends from knuckle, loosen the 2 rack mounting bolts, and remove the drivers side bolt, let it come down slightly. Gives you waaaay more access to the line fasteners (Can't remember if they were 17mm or 18mm). Either way, a set of stubby's or crowfeet will really come in handy here. Then remove the passenger side bolt. You do need to twist the unit slightly (tight fit in there) to get it out.
Installation is basically the reverse. Try to tighten the lines to spec while you have access to it, because the sub frame and front diff really get in the way once it is installed.
Best way is to jack and remove tires, remove tie rod ends from knuckle, loosen the 2 rack mounting bolts, and remove the drivers side bolt, let it come down slightly. Gives you waaaay more access to the line fasteners (Can't remember if they were 17mm or 18mm). Either way, a set of stubby's or crowfeet will really come in handy here. Then remove the passenger side bolt. You do need to twist the unit slightly (tight fit in there) to get it out.
Installation is basically the reverse. Try to tighten the lines to spec while you have access to it, because the sub frame and front diff really get in the way once it is installed.
As we say in this neck of the woods, Bonne Chance! I had my return line blow a hole before Christmas. I applied a band-aid (split piece of hose and three clamps) so I could get to work while I waited for time and weather to repair it.
There was no way I could get at the flare nut to get it off - 18mm by the way - my largest flare nut wrench is 17mm, an 18mm open end is too long to fit among the other stuff and would slip off anyhow. I bought some flare-nut crows-foot sockets and before I could get at it, the line started to leak at the crimp between solid and flexible line and with all of the bends and crimps, I couldn't apply my fix there. I can't tell you how much fun it is to come out at 6:30 AM at -10C to find your power steering fluid pissed all over the driveway.
I managed to drive it to the shop near my office, I had the part, and for 102 Canukistanian Pesos I picked up a fully functioning truck. I bet it is much easier to get at when it is on a lift any you aren't lying on your back in a frozen driveway!
There was no way I could get at the flare nut to get it off - 18mm by the way - my largest flare nut wrench is 17mm, an 18mm open end is too long to fit among the other stuff and would slip off anyhow. I bought some flare-nut crows-foot sockets and before I could get at it, the line started to leak at the crimp between solid and flexible line and with all of the bends and crimps, I couldn't apply my fix there. I can't tell you how much fun it is to come out at 6:30 AM at -10C to find your power steering fluid pissed all over the driveway.
I managed to drive it to the shop near my office, I had the part, and for 102 Canukistanian Pesos I picked up a fully functioning truck. I bet it is much easier to get at when it is on a lift any you aren't lying on your back in a frozen driveway!
That was going to be my next course of action, but I didn't want to do an alignment. I think that you can weave it through the front of the engine bay.
Pretty tight with 4x4, and that hose is pretty stiff. Might be possible.


