So I had a broken exhaust manifold bolt, the rear most one on drivers side. Broke flush with the head. Drilled it and my extractor snapped when I tried to remove it. Just wondering if anyone had any ideas? Or am I just S.O.L.?

I brought it to a shop that I've done business with before and was told all they could do is replace the head.

 

The extractor broke because the bolt is basically welded to the head with rust.

The extractor is made from harder metal but all metals have their breaking point. Since it's such hard metal it is nearly impossible to drill to add another extractor inside or even drilling the whole thing and using a helicoil.

If the extractor is also flush to the head then there is really no other option to remove it. I agree with the shop you brought it to.

 

weld a nut onto the extractor and turn the nut out.

drilling and extractors is time consuming and wrecks heads. professionals use a mig welder.

 

If you don't want to buy a new head, go buy a sack of carbide burrs and get busy. Get a bunch of them because you will ruin them, but you'll eventually get the broken stud out if you're persistent. I'll warn you that buying a new head will be much easier. I'd save the burr process for something rare and not easily replaceable (for me it was a relative's Buell motorcycle)

 

I had the same bolt break off and then an extractor tip. I sprayed the bolt several times with PB penetrating oil used a reverse drill bit with an angled air drill in reverse and the moment I started the process the bolt started to reverse it self out. Good luck.

 

Hopping over from 1st Gen Forum, but I broke an extractor just last week inside what was left of an exhaust manifold stud. I used my Dremel and 953, 7144, and 453-03 bits. I managed to chew through at least 5, maybe 6 bits of the various types total ($30-something of dremel bits sacrificed -womp womp), and it took me an hour and a half, but I managed to obliterate what was left of the extractor. Drilled the rest of stud out, and even managed to re-tap the threads without using a heli-coil. I'm guessing your head is aluminum, first gens are cast iron, so your results may vary though.

 

Thanks for the ideas. I'm going to give em a shot when I get time. I really don't want to change that head. At least it's not a terrible leak. It seals up once the truck warms up.

 

Sometimes just tapping on the sides of the broken extractor will loosen it. The best bet however is probably to weld a nut on it.

 

Yup! Best way.