Per the 2005 Service Manual for the #1 coil, there are 2 wires:

-Dark Blue (DB)/Dark Green(DG) - Control Circuit (from the PCM) - This one should only be energized during the spark signal from PCM.

-Red - Full-time power from the Integrated Power Module (fuse block)

 

David, I'm sorry, I can't remember the codes it was giving you. Which were those? Are you sure it is the coil that was toast? Because there are a few other things that would cause a #1 misfire. I think it was dakotoff in the other thread that mentioned swapping it with another coil - preferably from the other bank. Swap it with #2 - easy to get at. See if the fault follows the coil.

Didn't you say you also had a #3 misfire? #1 and #3 are next to each other... perhaps an oil or coolant leak in the cylinders causing issues? How is your coolant level/color? Did you get the #3 issue sorted? Just trying to help diagnose the problem instead of firing up the parts cannon, since it sounds like the issue affected your new engine as well.

 

I'm getting P2302 and P301 Its blowing the coil on cylinder 1 and only on that cylinder. 4 coils (the original that was in the truck when I bought it, 2 eichlins from napa, and an NGK) and two spark plugs now. I have not changed engines. coolant is good I just put a new radiator on about a month ago because the old one was leaking trans fluid at the fitting (which then broke off in my hand) oil looked good as well. Some one else had the #3 issue, I remember commenting on that thread but I don't remember who it was.

 

Okay cool, was getting hard to tell what came from what thread. Definitely thinking some kind of wiring issue on the coil.

 

Yea, I'm going to splice two new wires from the ECU to the coil and see if that fixes it. It just needs to warm up cause I don't have a garage. (was also thinking about swapping any cheap part that is in this pod of components. like the ASD relay, the cam and crank position sensor, I don't know if the fuel injector could be part of the problem?)

 

P0301 points to a lot of things, but P2302 has much fewer potential suspects, so I would stick with that. You have already swapped the coil and PCM, so it isn't either of those. Which basically leaves the relay (which I don't think it is, otherwise you might see it on other cylinders, but hey, I'm wrong a lot), or the wiring for the coil, whether it's the hot lead or the control side of the wiring. Since it only affects one cylinder, it is quite likely that the problem is between the S117 splice and the coil. That's basically beside the cylinder 5 coil.

Of course, it could also be the connector that is cracked and/or shorting.

Diagnosing time.

 

Yea... So how do I know which is the S117 splice? I'm assuming I'll just have to peel away the heat shroud and trace it back. I've never had to mess with such a complex amount of wires before. (i've done stereo and basic extension/splices on ATX computer PSUs.. like 5 wires, and they where industry standard color coded)

 

Check out the connector first. Much more likely to fail than the splice. If it looks good, then you can move on to figuring out if it is the lead side or control side of the wires. Whittling it out, step by step. Even if you gotta tear down the loom, it isn't a huge deal. Just time consuming is all.

 

Yea it would help if I had a garage, I dont get off work till 5 and its dark by the time I get home, and its getting colder lol. I might have to run a space heater on my this weekend while I stand out there and trace all this stuff.

 

Would it be possible to stick to one thread? I'm interested and would like to help if I can, but jumping around among several threads and trying to keep the information straight is becoming difficult.