Can you send the link for the part to fix this please I’m having the same problem and it drives me crazy

 

Hi, i bought mine from walmart. Just type in ( 50w 1k ohm resistor ) it will bring up the gold one i used for 9.06 for 2, or 1 for 8.88 so it is a very good quality resistor for a great price. The actual resistor has this printed on it = 50W 1KJ

 

Also, if you're talking about the specific Mopar brake fluid master cylinder, the part # are as follows:

(You need to find out if your truck has ABS in the rear, (standard) or all wheel ABS (option). I believe there are threads here on how to find out if you don't know already.
For trucks with ABS in ALL 4 wheels: Mopar part # 05183200AA
For trucks with ABS only in the rear wheels: Mopar part # 5175103AA
I purchased mine from ebay and there are several suppliers there for that part. Also Summit Racing Equipment has them.
Hope this helps solve another Dakota dash brake light issue.

 

I'm currently having this problem and if you can give a better description on the resistors you bought/showed in the picture, I would appreciate it
What I see online(amazon) are resistors like 10w 1000ohms such as this:

Dimlove Cement Resistor,10 PCS 10w 1000 Ohm 5% Axial Lead Wire Resistor White Wound Fixed Ceramic Cement Wirewound Cement Power Resistors Flame Heat Moisture Resistance Precharge Horizontal Resistors

I didn't send the amazon link because of people thinking I'm trying to pull a fast one. Put you can cut.paste the above wording
I'd buy a Mopar master cylinder/reservoir but says not available and the one I bought at autozone didn't fix my issue.
Thanks, this is really frustrating!!!
-Brian

 

Copy & paste this into walmart site and it will bring up the exact 2 resistors i bought, so you will be left with a spare, ( 2pcs 50W 1k Ohm Aluminium Housing Chassis Mount Wirewound Power Resistor Glod ) These are sold by Tasharina, and even though GOLD is misspelled they are perfect for this solution, and very adffordable at 9.06 . I knew this was a very widespread problem, and with almost all aftermarket master cylinder level sensors made with the wrong specs, this should make others who seek help in solving this disaster, pull themselves out of the rabbit hole i fell into. . .

 

Hello:

Here's a link in ebay with a seller that has several available:
Genuine Mopar Brake Master Cylinder 5175103AA | eBay
Thais is for the trucks that have REAR ABS ONLY.

For trucks that have ALL WHEEL ABS, here's the link to a vendor that apparently has them:
Mopar Replacement 5183200AA (summitracing.com)
You will need to find out if your truck has rear-only or all wheel abs. The VIN should be able to tell you.

Hope this helps.

 

I took off the autozone supplied reservoir and cleaned the origional one with acetone and reinstalled it.
Before installing and filling the reservoir, I plugged in the connector and turned the reservoir upside down, the float moved easily and the light stayed off.
Then I installed and filled the old reservoir and installed it. The light stayed off and took it for a real short drive with turns and stops
once I returned home and after a few minutes of idling the truck, the light came back on. I did have my foot on the brake pedal and I'm starting to wonder if the brake pedal sensor is part of the problem. I also had the lights kick on when doing a quick u-turn on a side street and foot on brake.
Here's what the scan tool gave when I did a test run
Name Vaue unit
RF wheel speed signal not available-no work park or drive km/h
RR wheel speed 0.0 in park but was working when driving km/h
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
RF wheel 0.0 in park but was reading when driving rpm
LF wheel 0.0 in park but was reading when driving rpm
RF wheel 0.0 in park but was reading when driving rpm
I ordered the resisitors but I am concerned about using them because I going to sell the truck as soon as I fix this issue.
I also probe the green orange wire on the reservoir to the body and when set on continuity, it got a 1.7. the other wire was always a 1.

BTW... the other code was for the passenger airbag, no signal-code says it can't display on the radio/stereo. I don't have the OEM stereo and I have never seen anything engine/ectrical wise show up on the OEM stero in past 17 years I upgraded to a sony touch screen with appleplay/android. AS of now, air bag code fianlly turned off on it's own. Before it was always on even when trying to erase the both codes including C1009 code.
thinking about repalce the connector to the reservoir and run a seperate wire from the ground/frame to the connector. any thoughts?
thanks again, you and everyone else.
Brian

 

I truly feel that this fix should not be an issue when selling the truck. Just explain the incorrectly manufactured level sensor, and that this was the solution and most buyers should know enough about old vehicles to accept this. The sensor is only a monitor of fluid level, that only goes off when it is leaking to a point that should easily be recognized as a problem by the person driving. As well as look at the level with a quick glance whenever the hood is open just like in the old days. Mine is held on to the firewall in clear view so it will always be remembered why the bright gold resistor is wired in there. The main thing is, that this solves a false C1009 code that would otherwise cost others a ton of money and time chasing other possible causes, the amount of money & valuable time this new aftermarket master cylinder manufacturing incompetence cost me was massive, i wish there was knowledge out here before that all different master cylinder suppliers are possible to have this defect. The solution to this is either a new MOPAR master cylinder , or the resistor method. Believe me, i wish i would have bought a dealer one and avoided this whole mess, but that's the way it goes for us not as fortunate people who have extremely lean budgets, our choice will always be cost with hope for the value. My Dakota also has a navigation screen stereo, but no airbag issues, it could have been a connection that corroded or is loose to correct itself by moving a wire. As there is no abs sensor in the R-F on rear abs only systems the sensor readings seem fine. That is a very strange thing about this, that after brake failure and needing a new master cylinder, the original sensor never seems to work again. I know as soon as the brake line blew out, the ABS & Brake lights stayed on even after replacing the line and bleeding system, the only time i got the lights to go off after an entire half year of mind boggling diagnostic thoughts, is with a quality 1000 Ohm resistor. The tolerance of +vs- ohms must be so small that the old sensor goes out of that limit after all the years. Obviously for this, there is no better solution than an actual dealer MOPAR master cylinder, i just don't see dealer prices as an option for most guys doing our own repairs.

 

Thanks for the response.
I just did a quick experiment and replace the old OEM stereo(glad I kept it) and the U0184- Lost communication with radio code disappeared.
I put the new sony back in adn the U1084 code came back up.
This old radio is a dumb radio and had nothing but AM?FM/CD.
I borrowed a better Xtool D7 scanner and found other faults
Central Gateway(CGW)
Heat Ventilation and AC (HVAC)
Occupant restraint
It seems that these above faults/codes are because I installed a new stereo and it doesn't communicate with the above mentiond faults/CAMbus. Who thought that using the OEM stereo for electrical systems was a great idea?
I'm going to bite the bullet and try the OEM/dealer master cylinder and just use the reservoir. I shouldn't need to bleed...i hope(maybe someone will say other wise)
Thanks again!
Brian

 

I think your problem might be related to the speed sensors more than to the master cylinder, reason being that for a faulty master cylinder sensor, the truck should trigger the fault once you start the truck at all times, not just after driving for some time and pressing the brake pedal. The reading from the master cylinder is a "constant reading", so it should signal a trouble code from the get-go. This is how it was for me, I only had a code for "low-fluid level", even though mine was topped-off when the cylinder was swapped for an aftermarket, then the abs and brake light came on and stayed on at all times once you started the truck. I had no other codes.
If you cleaned your factory master cylinder, and it worked fine for a while, then started giving you trouble ager driving for some time, I would suspect the wheel speed sensors as stated earlier, and your original master cylinder might be good!
These trucks have one sensor above the differential pumpkin in the back, and I believe another one in the driver side front brake. (At least that is how they are for my truck, as I have rear wheel abs only).
Hope this helps.