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Unusual FALSE CODE C1009 ??? need intellifix level help

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Old Jun 21, 2023 | 05:42 PM
  #21  
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migraine
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From: NoCal
Default still try to figure this out...

I took the front drivers tire off and no speed sensor, so I must only have one in the rear dif. I'm about to crawl under the truck and pull the rear sensor to at least clean it and then replace.
Funny thing is when I did a live monitor,while driving, the scanner showed wheel rpm on all four wheels and km/h on the left front and signal not available on the right front.
Head scratcher for me since it was the front left(driver's) tire I removed to look for the ABS mount. How do get RPM and km/h without a sensor on a RWD truck?
This is getting real old....
still waiting for the resistors to show up today.
Thanks, Again for your time.
Brian
 
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Old Jun 22, 2023 | 10:40 AM
  #22  
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Carlitos007
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From: Durham, NC
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Make sure you confirm which type of setup you have in your truck, (based on how your truck was optioned from factory, whether all-wheel abs, which was an option on its own, or rear wheel abs, which was standard), as there might be different sensor configurations.
There is a link somewhere in this forum where you can plug in your VIN and it decodes your truck with all the options it came in.
On a side note, I posted a lot of parts for these trucks in the User Classifieds section for cheap, as when I purchased my truck, it came with these extra parts, and I have no immediate use for them. Some are even brand new.
Just check them out.

Thanks
 

Last edited by Carlitos007; Jun 22, 2023 at 10:44 AM.
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Old Jan 21, 2025 | 05:30 PM
  #23  
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mchavis
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Physically how did you "fix" having the wrong resistance? Did you find a sensor with 1000 ohms and replace the sensor in the master cylinder (MC) or did you find a new MC with the correct sensor?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2025 | 05:57 PM
  #24  
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mchavis
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could the original master cylinder be rebuilt to retain the correct sensor?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2025 | 12:57 PM
  #25  
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Hesselhoff
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From the look of their post, they fixed it by removing the connector from the aftermarket sensor that had 10kohm resistance and just wired in a 1kohm resistor. Rather than rebuild the master cylinder to keep the sensor, the sensor can be removed from the master cylinder and placed into a replacement unit. The reservoir has to be taken off, and the master cylinder out in order to reach the sensor to be replaced. When I ran into the same issue after replacing my master cylinder, I didn't want to go through the work of taking everything out again and bleeding the brakes. So I just took the connector off the bad sensor and plugged in the old good one, and stuffed it out of the way. This has only been a problem once in my truck as the abuse I put it through while going camping caused it to blow out the rear brake cylinder. Some people just care about the light being off rather than the sensor doing its job.

The only sensors that I have seen with the correct resistance are the oem from dodge. You can also go to a part picker and grab a few replacements for cheap.
 

Last edited by Hesselhoff; Jan 22, 2025 at 12:59 PM.
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