Hello everyone.:

I recently acquired a 2008 Dakota 4x4 v-8. It is overall a solid truck with relatively low miles (140K), but in need of some repairs. The most substantial one is a constant ABS yellow and red brake light on the dash. When I got the truck at a small local dealership, the brakes were shot and it had new rear cylinders, rear shoes, front pads and rotors, new master cylinder and a few brake lines replaced. Now the brakes work flawlessly, however, the lights are still staying on in the dash. deler suggested replacing the ABS module. I did the due diligence research and found that it is no longer being manufactured, and that it needs programming to the VIN in your truck. It is a TRW brand one. The thing is that I want to start from the least expensive alternative to then if nothing else works, figuring out how to repair the current module. As the least expensive alternative, i was thinking if the ABS fault codes that are triggering the lights could be cleared, then the whole system could reset with the new parts installed, rather than jumping the gun and replacing the module. Does anybody have any information if the ABS codes could be clear and that taking care of the issue? I am aware I might have to bring it to the local dealer for that. any hep, suggestions, opinions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!!

 

Welcome to the forum

Did the dealer read codes? what lead them to just replacing the module? A bad abs sensor could cause both lights to be on. ABS lights are self resetting. If the issue is resolved the lights will go off automatically without clearing codes.

I would start with just reading the codes and seeing what's going on. Good possibility with all the other work that was done maybe the valves do need replacing. Maybe something got hooked up incorrectly when the parts were being installed.

 

Thanks for the guidance dodgetruck. It was a small local non-franchised dealer so they did not have the equipment to pull the abs codes. They did replace the rear brake cylinders, shoes, front pads and rotors and the master cylinder. They didn’t replace any sensors to my knowledge. This particular truck only has one brake sensor on the driver side front that I can see. I’m planning on driving it to the local dodge desee this upcoming week to see if they can pull any codes, then go from there. Will post the findings.

 

I have recently done the same work on my truck and found that the brake fluid reservoir that comes on the master cylinder had a faulty sensor. The abs and park light was on as it thought it had low brake fluid. So the first thing i would check the fluid level and make sure the sensor is plugged in. Low fluid and no sensor will give the same lights on the dash. Grabbing a new sensor and plugging it in solved my problem.

Also most abs wheel sensor issues stop cruise control from working. So that can help you narrow down the issue if cruise control does, or does not work.

 

Thanks for the pointers Hesselhoff. Brake fluid level is good. The master cylinder and reservoir were replaced when they did the brakes. Will try the brake fluid sensor next week though and plan to check if the cruise control works tomorrow.
Can you please list the part number for the brake fluid sensor, and where to buy? I checked Advance Auto Parts and they don’t seem to have one.
Lastly please, how hard is it to replace?
Thanks

 

The sensor is a pain in the *** to remove, so my fix was to take the connector off and put the new sensor on that and zip tie it somewhere it wouldn't flop around. As long as I check the fluid level once and awhile, it won't be an issue. The connector itself is difficult to get to and requires taking the master cylinder off a bit or pulling up the fuse block, you may have better luck than my fat fingers. A junk yard may be the best place to get a sensor, as a quick Google doesn't come up with anything. Any dakota from 2005-2011 will work, just two bolts on the side, pry up the tank and remove the wire harness connector. I used the sensor I knew was working from the one I was replacing. I spent an hour trying to get the faulty one out, but gave up - hence my "fix". I've also seen on other vehicles that the float can be jammed in the bottom of the reservoir. This would cause the sensor to be engaged all the time.

Rockauto.com is where I get the majority of my parts. If ordering a bunch of stuff, hit the check box for "choose for me" and select all the parts in that category that will work for you, then add to cart. It will compare with everything in your cart and alternate parts to ship as much as possible from one warehouse to save on shipping... at least in theory. It does break sometimes, but is still better than nothing. Also make sure to go to reddit or something and look up a discount code. There is no limit to how many people can use a code before it expires, so there is no reason to not get 5% off for the parts in the order.

 

Thanks again Hesselhoff.
I think I can get to it by removing the fuse box once the battery terminals are disconnected. I already made sure the connector plug fits snugly in there. Now, how do you get it out? do you turn it clockwise, counter-clockwise, or just pry it out?

 

if i recall correctly there is just a tab on the passenger side, squeeze and push to the driver side. the wire harness doesn't give it much room to move, so disconnect that. it needs about 3-4 inches of clearance to come out.

 

Gotcha.
I have since booked an appointment at the local dealer in two weeks to diagnose and pull the codes. I think it might be easier that way to then go from there.

I will post the findings.

 

Assuming you are handy and maintain your vehicles yourself. If not buy tools and a OBD2 scanner and confirm the new brakes were actually replaced. I would confirm it myself taking the tires off and inspecting the repairs. Many hack jobs and BS when dealers selling used vehicles. Prefer Mopar parts vs cheaper ones.