Hi guys,

Hey, I was at the Dodge dealer this weekend when I saw a brochure for a 2006 Dakota RT. It has a hood scoop, body fascia, and a sticker on the hood (don't remember what it is). The hp and torque specs were higher than a regular Dakota. Does anyone know what they did to bump up the ratings? Don't hold me to it, but I said something around 270 hp and 315 lbs/torque (give or take a little bit). Thanks!

 

do a search on this site, you should find all you want to know about the new R/T. The main reason for the increased torque and HP #'s is the HO cams that are in the 4.7L engine, hence the designation 4.7L HO.

Again, do a search, good luck

 

The new R/T is a piece of sh*t.....

 

Pics

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Yeah the higher torque and HP is because its the High Output version of the 4.7 V8.

would I be able to switch out the cams in my engine and get the HO cam in place? How much would it cost?

 

I am not interested in buying one, or even test-driving it. I'm happy with my Hemi. I was just curious about it. Maybe Dodge should look into improving the 4.7 so Nissan can stop making commericials about the Frontier being the "most powerful mid-size truck" on the market.

 

The 4.7L must DIE

 

As i have said in other posts! I'm ashamed of the new R/T! They should have just put a V8 high output badge on the back and left it alone. The R/T is no more in the dakota until they can grow the ***** to put a hemi in one. Put some 18's or 20's on it and give it a more sportier stance!! And a better looking hood scoop! I like the new dakotas but come ondidnt think they were goin to down grade the R/T like that!

 

Yes you can...it's a cheap upgrade too I believe
Just the labor (time) that's a problem

Do a search

Here's some quick instructions I found:
"Here's a really quick how to...

Remove intake system,... not manifold.
Unplug a few wiring harnesses to get things out of the way.
Unbolt and remove valve covers(they're tricky,... be patient).
Wedge long screw drivers between sprocket and head.
Use zipties or whatever else to make sure that sprocket does not fall.
Unbolt cam positioners, they're specifically numbered for each spot, make sure to remember which one goes where.
Unbolt cam from sprocket.
Remove cam.
Find the locator hole on sprocket, look for locator pin on cam, match up, place cam in position.
Bolt cam to sprocket, don't completely tighten, just enough to make sure that sprocket doesn't fall.
Bolt cam positioners to head in correct order of removal.
Once you've bolted all cam positioners, tq the bolt connecting the cam and the sprocket to the previously felt tq(haha).
Bolt valve covers back on
Reconnect wires and hoses.

Once you've done that to one side, repeat on opposing side.

OH,... some things to keep in mind.
- DO NOT let that sprocket fall,... if you do, the chain will rachet, and you won't be able to pull the sprocket back up to bolt to the cam, you have to tear the whole front of the motor off to do so.
- You DO NOT have to take the fuel rails off,... on the drivers side simply bend the fuel line a hair, and the valve cover should be able to slide out(with a little work).
- The oil filler neck thats bolted to the passenger side head should be unbolted, but only enough to move a tad in order to get that valve cover off.
- Be sure to use long screw drivers, and whatever else you think might work to keep that sprocket up. If you have the wedge tool you can use that,... but a buddy of mine has done somewhere around 10 installs WITHOUT it, and no fallen sprockets yet."




And they're $240 for BOTH 4.7 H.O. Cams from www.socaldakota.com:

http://www.socaldakota.com/performan...camshafts.html

 

Would this work with the 6 speed you think? Cuz when you get the HO it's only available with the 5 speed auto.

Thanks man