Stereo Install Question
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Joined: Jan 2006
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RE: Stereo Install Question
Drakkon,
No I'm not sure. However based on schematics in the 05 Service Manual it certainly doesn't appear likely that the orange or orange/white would be power/keyswitch/remote turn on.
In addition, shaggy said the voltag ehe measured was approximately 5V. This is a standard/common voltage level for a differential bus like CAN B. You say that you measured 12 V on yours so who knows, there may have been circuit/wiring changes mid model year?
One other way would be to look if the orange and orange/white wires are twisted together (i.e. twisted pair). This is commonly done for CAN bus circuits for noise shielding. In other schematics in the manual this orange & orange/white twisted pair run all over the truck to the Front Control Moduel (FCM), Body CM, PCM etc
No I'm not sure. However based on schematics in the 05 Service Manual it certainly doesn't appear likely that the orange or orange/white would be power/keyswitch/remote turn on.
In addition, shaggy said the voltag ehe measured was approximately 5V. This is a standard/common voltage level for a differential bus like CAN B. You say that you measured 12 V on yours so who knows, there may have been circuit/wiring changes mid model year?
One other way would be to look if the orange and orange/white wires are twisted together (i.e. twisted pair). This is commonly done for CAN bus circuits for noise shielding. In other schematics in the manual this orange & orange/white twisted pair run all over the truck to the Front Control Moduel (FCM), Body CM, PCM etc
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Joined: Jan 2006
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RE: Stereo Install Question
Thats exactly the wiring of my harness. The white and white/orange voltage change depending if you have your head unit on key turned and so on. I did read 12v on the orange/white one time when the stereo was turned on but it changed again back to 5v a little later. So I really think it is the CAN bus.
So with that in mind I need to just wire around the amp. Not that big of a deal. Do you know if the amp does anything with the tweeters and mids on the front door? Does it have a cross over for them in the amp? Also do you have a diagram for the colors to the speakers off the amp plug?
Just not 100% sure how to wire the mids and tweeters to just the front outs of hte head unit.
So with that in mind I need to just wire around the amp. Not that big of a deal. Do you know if the amp does anything with the tweeters and mids on the front door? Does it have a cross over for them in the amp? Also do you have a diagram for the colors to the speakers off the amp plug?
Just not 100% sure how to wire the mids and tweeters to just the front outs of hte head unit.
Professional
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From: Maryland
RE: Stereo Install Question
since it sounds like you have components you are installing they should ahve their own crossover that came with them. each crossover should have only two input terminals, which would be the + & - for that respective side.
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RE: Stereo Install Question
Couldn't find any details about crossover/filtering of the tweeter channels. They must either be integrated internal to the amp or there could be some simple passive crossovers on the back of the tweeters themselves.
Here is a schematic of the amplifier:
Here is also a description of the amplifier itself. This confirms that the amp is indeed turned on via a CAN message and not a switched 12V circuit from the radio.
[IMG]local://upfiles/28592/D30D840DE8F94DF9BDB11B0340D57A38.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/28592/0FAC976480FB435A9F663A8DB0534B68.jpg[/IMG]
Here is a schematic of the amplifier:
Here is also a description of the amplifier itself. This confirms that the amp is indeed turned on via a CAN message and not a switched 12V circuit from the radio.
[IMG]local://upfiles/28592/D30D840DE8F94DF9BDB11B0340D57A38.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/28592/0FAC976480FB435A9F663A8DB0534B68.jpg[/IMG]
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RE: Stereo Install Question
Only reason I'm not too pee'od about this POS premium system is I bought the truck new/used. Considering what folks pay for it Dodge should be ashamed. But, that being said I'm replacing the whole frickin thing. Way too much hassle otherwise. I just ordered a Kenwwod KDC-MP5032 from Crutchfield's this morning. It will arrive with a dash kit, harness to hook it up and bypass the amp, and antenna adapter, and free shipping to the door for $199. Now all I need to do is order an amp for the components. I have the sub and sub amp, and an amp kit already and will do the install myself. Will be a first for me but I figure w/Crutchfield's instructions should be pretty easy. Hard part will be replacing the panel behind the rear seats with 1/4" plywood so I have a solid surface to mount the amps. And pulling the wires for everything. Still cheaper than a JL Cleansweep.
TASTE THE HEAT AND ENJOY THE PAIN
TASTE THE HEAT AND ENJOY THE PAIN
Joined: Apr 2006
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How to get the factory amps to work with aftermarket unit
Hi - this is my first post on Dodgeforum
I am in the UK with a silver SRT-10 reg cab and have just installed my pioneer X1R into my truck whilst still using the factory infinity amp system. I know a little bit about data bus lines and this is the only one you are going to get it to work without purchasing any clever adaptors.
You can use a regular Dodge/Chrysler to ISO adaptor to get all the main connections from the new HU to the factory loom. However, the bus line (which is violet/white) in the harness connector needs to be connected to the factory stereo to make the amps work.
The best way to do this is to mount the factory unit under the drivers seat as it fits really nice. Then supply the factory unit with 12v Batt, 12v Switched, GND, and Data via a 4 wires from the original HU position to under the seat.
You need to attach these 4 wires to the connector and thus relevant pins (which you can work out from looking at the loom), but basically from looking at the back of the headunit you need to use:
large pin on bottom row far left - 12v batt
next large pin to the right - 12v constant
top row 3 pin from the left (first of the smaller pins) - data bus
large pin on far right (either top or bottom doesnt matter) is - chassis gnd
With this connected up and your new HU installed you will need to power up the original HU (volume button out) then turn the volume up to about 30, set the bass, treble, balance and fader to "0" and you should be away.
This way it tricks the car to thinking the original headunit is connected. NOTE you must use the original HU as its coded into the PCM, or get your PCM recoded if you are using another!
IMPORTANT - only connect to these pins, i thought i had screwed my PCM on sunday but shorting the data bus out and got the "NO BUS" message on the dash - thankfully with the battery disconnected for 10 mins or so everything seemed to reset and be ok
Hope this helps
Cheers
Woody
I am in the UK with a silver SRT-10 reg cab and have just installed my pioneer X1R into my truck whilst still using the factory infinity amp system. I know a little bit about data bus lines and this is the only one you are going to get it to work without purchasing any clever adaptors.
You can use a regular Dodge/Chrysler to ISO adaptor to get all the main connections from the new HU to the factory loom. However, the bus line (which is violet/white) in the harness connector needs to be connected to the factory stereo to make the amps work.
The best way to do this is to mount the factory unit under the drivers seat as it fits really nice. Then supply the factory unit with 12v Batt, 12v Switched, GND, and Data via a 4 wires from the original HU position to under the seat.
You need to attach these 4 wires to the connector and thus relevant pins (which you can work out from looking at the loom), but basically from looking at the back of the headunit you need to use:
large pin on bottom row far left - 12v batt
next large pin to the right - 12v constant
top row 3 pin from the left (first of the smaller pins) - data bus
large pin on far right (either top or bottom doesnt matter) is - chassis gnd
With this connected up and your new HU installed you will need to power up the original HU (volume button out) then turn the volume up to about 30, set the bass, treble, balance and fader to "0" and you should be away.
This way it tricks the car to thinking the original headunit is connected. NOTE you must use the original HU as its coded into the PCM, or get your PCM recoded if you are using another!
IMPORTANT - only connect to these pins, i thought i had screwed my PCM on sunday but shorting the data bus out and got the "NO BUS" message on the dash - thankfully with the battery disconnected for 10 mins or so everything seemed to reset and be ok
Hope this helps
Cheers
Woody
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RE: Stereo Install Question
So... Maybe I m a little late, but what the heck, might still be usefull to somebody down the road.
The good... The 06+ have alpine avaliable as an option for premium sound. (atleast mine came with it.)
the bad... I have yet to find a newer infinity system that doesnt give fits. I usually end up re-wiring most of them. heres a tip for all you gusy trying to do this yourself. The amp in our trucks is located behind the drivers side seats(in reg cab) or in behind the left rear seat in quad cabs. Some people have sat. radio tuners back next to the amps... make sure it is infinity not delco. on the amp you will see 2 sets of wires, a small group, and a larger group. the larger is your speaker wires. On the smaller group, look for the color wire that matches behind the radio...this should be your remote turn on lead. The way to test this is with a volt meter. with the key on acc or run you should read a positive voltage. (these vary with every vehicle, most read 9-12v) now provided you hooked up your wires to an aftermarket to factory converting wire harness, the rest of the install should be a piece of cake... match the colors and you are good to go. if you hard wire, then you are on your own... Metra makes a nice harness for dodge trucks, just remember that you have to find a switched power source... the fuse pannle or ignition is the best route to go. a 5 amp fuse can be put in line if you go from ignition. (better safe than sorry...)
if this doesnt make sense, sorry. its late
The good... The 06+ have alpine avaliable as an option for premium sound. (atleast mine came with it.)
the bad... I have yet to find a newer infinity system that doesnt give fits. I usually end up re-wiring most of them. heres a tip for all you gusy trying to do this yourself. The amp in our trucks is located behind the drivers side seats(in reg cab) or in behind the left rear seat in quad cabs. Some people have sat. radio tuners back next to the amps... make sure it is infinity not delco. on the amp you will see 2 sets of wires, a small group, and a larger group. the larger is your speaker wires. On the smaller group, look for the color wire that matches behind the radio...this should be your remote turn on lead. The way to test this is with a volt meter. with the key on acc or run you should read a positive voltage. (these vary with every vehicle, most read 9-12v) now provided you hooked up your wires to an aftermarket to factory converting wire harness, the rest of the install should be a piece of cake... match the colors and you are good to go. if you hard wire, then you are on your own... Metra makes a nice harness for dodge trucks, just remember that you have to find a switched power source... the fuse pannle or ignition is the best route to go. a 5 amp fuse can be put in line if you go from ignition. (better safe than sorry...)
if this doesnt make sense, sorry. its late
