battery?
Amateur
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 41
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i hace had a crossfire amp and jl subs and diamond audio components.
I replaced the the factory components. I put the amp in the storage bin next to the factory sub. I dont have a 3rd row seat so i have 2 large storage bins there i built a custom box to fit there for 2 12's. I used a scosche hi-lo converter to grab signal. I grabbed my signal comming out of the factory amp for the fronts. The factory amp is located under the storage bin below the flash light. I grabbed my remote turn on from the power leading into the flash light. I only used it to trigger a relay i didnt want any current draw on it.
I was actually surprised how well the factory sub sounded without that thick plastic cover above it.
I replaced the the factory components. I put the amp in the storage bin next to the factory sub. I dont have a 3rd row seat so i have 2 large storage bins there i built a custom box to fit there for 2 12's. I used a scosche hi-lo converter to grab signal. I grabbed my signal comming out of the factory amp for the fronts. The factory amp is located under the storage bin below the flash light. I grabbed my remote turn on from the power leading into the flash light. I only used it to trigger a relay i didnt want any current draw on it.
I was actually surprised how well the factory sub sounded without that thick plastic cover above it.
Professional
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
I hace had a crossfire amp and jl subs and diamond audio components.
I replaced the the factory components. i put the amp in the storage bin next to the factory sub. i dont have a 3rd row seat so i have 2 large storage bins there i built a custom box to fit there for 2 12's. I used a scosche hi-lo converter to grab signal. i grabbed my signal comming out of the factory amp for the fronts. the factory amp is located under the storage bin below the flash light. I grabbed my remote turn on from the power leading into the flash light. i only used it to trigger a relay i didnt want any current draw on it.
I was actually surprised how well the factory sub sounded without that thick plastic cover above it.
I replaced the the factory components. i put the amp in the storage bin next to the factory sub. i dont have a 3rd row seat so i have 2 large storage bins there i built a custom box to fit there for 2 12's. I used a scosche hi-lo converter to grab signal. i grabbed my signal comming out of the factory amp for the fronts. the factory amp is located under the storage bin below the flash light. I grabbed my remote turn on from the power leading into the flash light. i only used it to trigger a relay i didnt want any current draw on it.
I was actually surprised how well the factory sub sounded without that thick plastic cover above it.
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 189
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I poped out the flashlight in the back there are 2 wires going to it. one ground, one that hot when the car is on (if i remember correctly its a red wire). i used this wire to evergize a relay (standaed 5 prong automotive relay). this way its not putting any current draw on that wire. wired the relay as follows:
pin 85- wire from flashlight
pin 86- ground
pin 87- battery lead from my power to the amp
pin 30- to remote input of amp.
Attached is the schematic for the vehicle. for the speakers.
Last edited by baum; Dec 8, 2011 at 07:02 AM.
Professional
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 98
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PLEASE HELP!!!
So I installed the amp got everything hidden and when I went to turn the car on it wouldn't start. All the accesories work i.e. power lift gate, seats, lights. Just no start, it says push pedal and start etc with off in the bottom right corner of screen and then a steady red light in center of panel.
It's obviously alarm related what can I do to get it out of lockout mode or whatever it is to start driving again?
So I installed the amp got everything hidden and when I went to turn the car on it wouldn't start. All the accesories work i.e. power lift gate, seats, lights. Just no start, it says push pedal and start etc with off in the bottom right corner of screen and then a steady red light in center of panel.
It's obviously alarm related what can I do to get it out of lockout mode or whatever it is to start driving again?
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 189
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This was stated in another post:
"One more thing: When you remove the trunk liner there is a blue/brown wire attached to it. It unclips easily, but if you don't re-attach this when trying to start, you will get a warning "key not detected". This makes me want to conclude that this is the (or one of the) receiver for the wireless remote."
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...p-install.html
"One more thing: When you remove the trunk liner there is a blue/brown wire attached to it. It unclips easily, but if you don't re-attach this when trying to start, you will get a warning "key not detected". This makes me want to conclude that this is the (or one of the) receiver for the wireless remote."
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...p-install.html
Champion
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
bportman,
Double check where you hacked into ANY of the wiring. Start there. Most likely something is grounded incorrectly. Dodge has used grounds differently on previous versions of Durangos.
IndyD
Double check where you hacked into ANY of the wiring. Start there. Most likely something is grounded incorrectly. Dodge has used grounds differently on previous versions of Durangos.
IndyD
Professional
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
During the install I did unhook one of the clips to the amp and another member suggested looking there, I got really excited ah of course that's but nothing!!!!
When i open the door nothing happen but when I engage a light or something electrical the dash screen says push brake pedal and push start along with a steady red light, when the text goes away the red light stays on for another 10 secs or so than goes off. And than nothing is on anymore.
Tried jump starting and have since completely refurbished my car back to normal!!
