^^^I 2nd that. I got mine for under $35k with 18 miles on it. w/o DVD but that should only add another 1-1.5k max.

 

Research "Buying a Demo vs new" and see what they talk about. i have lived through this a couple times, you save NOTHING... maybe $500.. just not worth it.

with all "due respect" to some that post "mid $30k's" or "low $30k's"...... not happening.

i have purchased 10 new vehicles (GM, Hyundai, Dodge) since 2003. i have a friend that OWNS a chevrolet dealer in Monmouth County, NJ. I purchase anything non chevy from a local dealer group where i first walk into the owner's (of all 12 dealerships) office and say i'm ready for a new one. I research money factors, residuals, have been schooled in what to look for in a dealer's computer screen to "see" what every charge is and the true cost (before i found the bank of americas website).

When you buy a dealer demo here's the discount you're getting: whatever incentives are available for NEW. Whatever the dealer wants to give you the car for in between holdback and invoice. you do not get any discounts for "used" mileage. you do not get any discount BECAUSE IT WAS A DEMO. You may get an "In inventory for X amount of month discount" but that is the SAME as you would for any vehicle in inventory for the specified length of time. that's my point. The dealer "may" have some bonus cash dollars (e.g. $250, $500, etc.) but you need to find out and verify that the dealer is actually doing that. they get very few if any of those dollars every month.

Do yourself this favor, ask the dealer what is the "SPECIFIC DISCOUNT I AM RECEIVING BECAUSE THIS CAR IS A DEMO WITH 5K MILES ON IT" you will be surprised at the result. it will be "we're giving it to you with all the holdback out" or "$1000 under invoice", which will usually be followed up by "nobody will sell you a 0 mile Durango for that." NONSENSE. Just for argument sake, tell them the truck is great but..... your wife doesn't want a Demo and told you that if we can't get a " 0 mile" one for that price we're moving on to another dealer. If you have a decent poker face it will work before you turn to leave. If he doesn't go for it LEAVE... They will call you back in or call you back in an hour.. trust me. i speak from experience. i have now gotten to the point that i am only ALLOWED to see the owner of the place i purchase from and he puts me with the GM of whatever dealer i want a car from. they are given specific instructions as to not play games, just split holdback, etc.

Depending on the mood i'm in, i will even get more off than that if i feel the fight is warranted.

Here they were. first new car ever was in 2000, a Hyundai Elantra

2003 - Hundai Sonata (silver)
2004 - GMC Envoy XUV (DEMO, red)
2005 - Pontiac Grand Prix GXP (first new black car.. vowed "NEVER AGAIN!!")
2006 - Chevrolet Trailblazer SS (silver)
2007 - Cadillac SRX4 (silver)
2008 - GMC Sierra All-Terrian (black.. enough time went by i forgot what a PITA!!)
2009 - Chevrolet Tahoe LTZ (DEMO, white)
2010 - GMC Yukon Denali (Storm Gray)
2011 - Hyundai Genesis 4.6 sedan (black.. I never learn lol)
2011 - Dodge Durango (Dk charcoal)

let me show you something... click on this link. it's for a company called fitzmall auto group. look at these internet prices. you can absolutely buy these advertised vehicles for these advertised prices. and they're 0 mileage. i found out about this site when i bought my Genesis sedan. many people used fitzmall and rant about it. excellent place

http://www.fitzmall.com/fitzway/carf...ango&LSTNU=NEW

another thing, regardless of WHAT the others on her state, nobody is buying a car for less than fitzmall prices. nobody. anyone wants to refute that needs to scan and post their sales agreement to back it up. you can research everywhere you want, they're are the cheapest. walk into your local dealer with their internet ad and the dealer will fight you tooth and nail before just giving it to you "no way" "impossible" etc.

You cannot compare deals where there are trade ins or "dealer loyalty" discounts. straight up everyone qualifies discounts so there's no confusion.

 

TC has a point but forgets that holdback isn't the only profit dealers have over "invoice". If they have to meet a certain quota to receive incentives from Dodge they WILL sell a car for less than what they paid for it. I was looking at a pilot touring because I could get one for invoice but had to pull the trigger when I came accross the offer I got on the Durango. Search the BoFA website as someone suggested, they will honor that price just remember dealers charge prep fees and other nonsense items which add to the cost not incld'g TTL. Good luck

 

Remember Jtrees that the holdback, incentives, etc apply at 0% to the situation **IF** the vehicle has been titled already and is technically used.

With that said, to dive any deeper you will need to know exactly if the car is "used" or untitled and still technically "new."

Used cars drop over 50% in 36 months in value. Doesn't mean they sell that low, just that the value is that low. The old adage that when you drive it off the lot you lose 25% is true. Again, just makes it hard to buy at that price because dealers are looking to get all that they can and if not from you, from the next guy. Best to hit them at the end of the month, late on a Saturday, near the end of inventory tax season, etc to get the true "best deals."

How do I come by my data? We are the ones that pay for vehicles when they are wrecked, stolen, damaged, etc. I deal with auto valuation everyday single day. I own an medium to large insurance agency affiliated with a name brand national company we all know (and hopefully love! ) The rub being, and I will say it again and again and again, that the value of the car does NOT equal what you MIGHT be paying for the vehicle. Just try to not over pay and be willing to walk away from a deal if need be.

The low $31k value I quoted is real, if not high actually. If you do NOT have loan gap insurance and your vehicle is stolen or totaled in an accident, getting $31k from a 6000 mile $38k new price car likely isn't going to happen. The insurance company is giving you the value, not what you owe or what it is selling for. Only your real value. You pay extra for "Gap Coverage" to make up the difference... or you don't and take the risk on your own. We all know someone who knows someone that totaled a car and the insurance paid out less than what they owed on the vehicle, thus leaving the owner with a payoff on a car they no longer have. Unless you are paying extra for extra coverages (Lease/Loan Gap coverage, Stated Value coverage, Agreed Value coverage, etc.) insurance is only covering the VALUE of the car at any one time. So other than what others may believe, $31k or less is the real value of that ride. Buy it, drive it off a cliff and check to see if I am not 100% correct. I am.

The discussion of VALUE as it relates to purchase PRICE is a difficult one. As for the VALUE of that Durango, $31k or less. As to what PRICE you will pay on it depends on your bargaining skills, situational events, etc.

**IF** you can make it a habit of paying only what it is worth, you will be ahead of most in the game that cannot equate, refuse to equate or simply don't understand those dynamics. I assure you, the dealer understands those dynamics implicitly. That is why they have the upper hand on most and make money on every transaction.

IndyDurango

 

if you're the "lucky" 999th buyer that quarter. Dealers will NOT sell numerous vehicles at a "loss" (i.e. less than holdback). they would not be able to keep their doors open friend.

Those "1 in a 100000" deals are just that. like hitting the lottery they are so often just a pipe dream lol. stick with plain hard facts. under invoice and you're winning (pre incentives) splitting holdback (more than fair) less than the split on holdback (you're a negotiating superstar) all of the holdback out (homerun). less than holdback (you're being lied to about something, somewhere in the deal (check it again).

 

As an FYI Jtrees, your statement of taking 20% off of $38k is $30,400 and right where I stated. The value of the vehicle dropped greater than 20% so the dealer is profiting on that difference.

 

Thanks for all the replies.
Just to clear a few things up, its a 2011 Citadel V6 AWD with rear DVD (std paint, no other options) that has NOT been titled with 5600 mi. So the current 3000 dealer cash applies for 2011 models The price they gave me was 39,500.

The 38k I quoted was the true car best price for the area which is interesting because it is below invoice - holdback.

According to true car, with MSRP of 46,565 the dealer cost for this car after dealer cash and holdback are taken out is 39,325. So at 39,500, they have taken out all but $125 of the holdback.

 

Doesn't sound like a good deal to me, I found a bunch of 2011 leftovers in my area for around $40k with the RES. With lower than 150 miles on them only they weren't Inferno Red and that was the deal breaker for me since the 2012's don't have that option.
As far as finding one "under invoice/best price" it's all about how much time you want to spend on finding the best deal, your neg skills, luck and timing. I negotiatied my factory ordered Charger SRT8 in Sept of 2005 before they were coming into the lots for 500 under invoice. It took a lot of time and spent a lot of effort talking to dealers that were asking $10k over sticker at the time to find one willing to deal. Just saying persistence, among other things, is key to getting a lot of things you want at the price you want it for.

 

you can buy a new one for a couple hundred dollars more. heck you can buy a '12 (from a place like fitzmall) for less than what you're paying for a used one. See what your vehicle would be on a trade with 5600 mi on it lol. DOn't do it man. you're getting ripped. for that to be a good deal they would've had to "eat" thousands, below holdback. they are not (which i knew they would not do from experience).

 

Don't do it for that price.
Judging form the deal I got in the very beginning of September, my Durango was $2000 more then yours (minus the trailer tow package and skid guards that came om mine). Now they have $3000 cash back instead of $2000 when I bought mine. So now they are just taking $1000 off for the 5.6k demo miles.

I went to that FitzMall place, it was $42,697 for a new Citadel (not 38k, that was for an RT).