58k miles on '12 DD had warped motors as well. I bought used, so I don't know prior driving conditions.

 

In order to save weight, all of these OEM rotors are thinner/lighter and are expected to only last as long as the pads, which is why the dealerships want to change the pads and rotors together.

Go to RockAuto and get some cryo-treated (warp resistant) rotors and a good set of ceramic pads.

Use a wire wheel or brush to clean as much rust/dust/junk off the hub before putting new rotors on.

 

No ceramic if towing.......

 

I don't have many miles on 2012 R/T DD 27K. And no issues to date with front or rear brakes. Have about 50% pad life left.

What am I missing here?

Driving habits are certainly a factor.

 

all of these post are correct. you also have to take into account that all vehicle manufactures are cheap, they dont want to spend a little bit of money to add a little bit of chrome into the mix in the foundery where the rotors are made, making them weak and warp, the old rotors never warped, even in hard breaking and wet conditions, just somthing we all have to get used to.

 

I may have this same issue as well, and I've noticed some inconsistencies on the rotor surface that further reinforce that the rotors may be warped and/or corroded. Currently at 75k on original equipment.

Here are a couple of pics that I took of front AND rear rotors:





Is this an indication of corrosion or warping?

 

At 71k miles I had my third set of rotors on the front, second on the back. I do tow a lot, but the trailer brakes are adjusted well and the warping symptoms occur after normal driving. I think they're just prone to warping.