Help! Check engine light won't stay off
#1
Help! Check engine light won't stay off
Hey everyone,
I have a 2012 Dodge Durango V6, the check engine came on and was giving a cam position sensor code. I had both sensors replaced and the light still comes on. Usually happens after I filled the gas tank and burned 1/8-1/4 of a tank. Normally it'll turn off after another 1/4-1/2 of a tank is burned.
My mechanic can't figure it out. Please help!! I'm at my fits end.
Thanks in advance!!
I have a 2012 Dodge Durango V6, the check engine came on and was giving a cam position sensor code. I had both sensors replaced and the light still comes on. Usually happens after I filled the gas tank and burned 1/8-1/4 of a tank. Normally it'll turn off after another 1/4-1/2 of a tank is burned.
My mechanic can't figure it out. Please help!! I'm at my fits end.
Thanks in advance!!
#4
Well, if they said the code was for the cam position sensor and they replaced the cam position sensor and the code is still there, then that was not the problem. I can't tell you anything until I know what the code is still causing the check engine light. Take it to a parts store and have them read the code and post it back. Then we can go from there. Always make sure they tell you what the code is before paying for a repair. You can buy yourself a code reader for less than $20 these days. Good insurance to have. Also, if your mechanic can't figure it out, take it somewhere else. I've also heard aftermarket sensors may not work so well. Make sure they used OEM.
#5
Well, if they said the code was for the cam position sensor and they replaced the cam position sensor and the code is still there, then that was not the problem. I can't tell you anything until I know what the code is still causing the check engine light. Take it to a parts store and have them read the code and post it back. Then we can go from there. Always make sure they tell you what the code is before paying for a repair. You can buy yourself a code reader for less than $20 these days. Good insurance to have. Also, if your mechanic can't figure it out, take it somewhere else. I've also heard aftermarket sensors may not work so well. Make sure they used OEM.
#6
Well, if they said the code was for the cam position sensor and they replaced the cam position sensor and the code is still there, then that was not the problem. I can't tell you anything until I know what the code is still causing the check engine light. Take it to a parts store and have them read the code and post it back. Then we can go from there. Always make sure they tell you what the code is before paying for a repair. You can buy yourself a code reader for less than $20 these days. Good insurance to have. Also, if your mechanic can't figure it out, take it somewhere else. I've also heard aftermarket sensors may not work so well. Make sure they used OEM.
In the case of a camshaft position sensor, if the sensor is fine, then it could be a PCM (PCM is still reading the sensor as returning an incorrect signal) or it could be a wiring problem (less likely) or a reluctor wheel (ring) on the camshaft (even less likely).
I'm not sure if the gas would be related to it or if it's just coincidence, but since you state that it comes on at a certain level of fuel in the tank, have you considered running with a better grade fuel from a better gas station? Maybe run a tank of premium from a reputable fuel station through it and see if it still does it. Bad fuel can throw off timing.
Last edited by mcfarl58; 04-28-2016 at 02:48 PM.
#7
Yep. The sensors are there and trip for a reason. And as surprising as this may be for some people, it's not always because the sensor is bad. If the sensor was replaced with a good and known working sensor, than your problem has to do with what the sensor is designed to sense or do.
In the case of a camshaft position sensor, if the sensor is fine, then it could be a PCM (PCM is still reading the sensor as returning an incorrect signal) or it could be a wiring problem (less likely) or a reluctor wheel (ring) on the camshaft (even less likely).
I'm not sure if the gas would be related to it or if it's just coincidence, but since you state that it comes on at a certain level of fuel in the tank, have you considered running with a better grade fuel from a better gas station? Maybe run a tank of premium from a reputable fuel station through it and see if it still does it. Bad fuel can throw off timing.
In the case of a camshaft position sensor, if the sensor is fine, then it could be a PCM (PCM is still reading the sensor as returning an incorrect signal) or it could be a wiring problem (less likely) or a reluctor wheel (ring) on the camshaft (even less likely).
I'm not sure if the gas would be related to it or if it's just coincidence, but since you state that it comes on at a certain level of fuel in the tank, have you considered running with a better grade fuel from a better gas station? Maybe run a tank of premium from a reputable fuel station through it and see if it still does it. Bad fuel can throw off timing.
It wouldn't be the gas cap would it? I've had a couple friends say it might be that but I really just know the super basics on cars.
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#8
Thanks! I haven't had a chance to have the code read so that I could tell y'all which one it is specifically but this makes sense. Once I have the code I'll post it and I'll try putting a better grade of gas in just to see.
It wouldn't be the gas cap would it? I've had a couple friends say it might be that but I really just know the super basics on cars.
It wouldn't be the gas cap would it? I've had a couple friends say it might be that but I really just know the super basics on cars.
#10
http://courses.chrysleracademy.com/0...iagnostics.pdf
Different vehicle, but same code and diagnostics.
Possible causes:
ENGINE OIL DIRTY OR CONTAMINATED
INCORRECT ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY
LOW ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(F343) FUSED MAIN RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH RESISTANCE
(K276) CMP 1/2 CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
CAMSHAFT 1/2 POSITION SOLENOID/OIL CONTROL VALVE
CAMSHAFT 1/2 PHASER
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
Easiest to do would be the oil checks. Change the oil, check the oil pressure, see if problem remains.
If still remains, then my bet would be on a wiring problem or the PCM itself.
Different vehicle, but same code and diagnostics.
Possible causes:
ENGINE OIL DIRTY OR CONTAMINATED
INCORRECT ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY
LOW ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(F343) FUSED MAIN RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH RESISTANCE
(K276) CMP 1/2 CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
CAMSHAFT 1/2 POSITION SOLENOID/OIL CONTROL VALVE
CAMSHAFT 1/2 PHASER
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
Easiest to do would be the oil checks. Change the oil, check the oil pressure, see if problem remains.
If still remains, then my bet would be on a wiring problem or the PCM itself.
Last edited by mcfarl58; 05-03-2016 at 01:16 PM.