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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 12:13 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by popdog
Yes and no. A clutch fan will outperform an e-fan at high RPM, CFM isn't everything. When I say reliable I don't mean like the concept of an e-fan being reliable, but I've seen a lot of people who needed to replace the e-fan motors 2 years in, etc.
that sounds feasible, but low RPM is generally the killer on engine temps. You see alot more cars overheating in traffic than on the highway. Like hammer said, your real increase is city driving, where you need it! I need to do this mod bad

And 90lbs apiece is alot. I need to weigh mine. I know I have a hell of a time getting them on
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 12:17 AM
  #22  
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Yeah, I'm not saying I won't do an e-fan. Just right now it's lower on my list. I'm looking for other mods right now. Seems like people are saying to get the exhaust on before i regear though.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by popdog
Yes and no. A clutch fan will outperform an e-fan at high RPM, CFM isn't everything. When I say reliable I don't mean like the concept of an e-fan being reliable, but I've seen a lot of people who needed to replace the e-fan motors 2 years in, etc.

Hammer, those results are impressive. All I meant by other variables were like humidity, temp, etc. I didn't even know for sure that the dyno's were done on the same day. Thanks for clearing that up. It's also reassuring to see you've had great success with the e-fan.

Also, yes, increasing the CV angle is exactly what I meant. I know some kits change the angle too drastically and can cause issues. Also, generally those running a suspension lift put on bigger (heavier) tires. I know my tires and wheels together right now are around 90lbs a piece.
I won't say the a clutch fan would outperform an efan at high rpm although I would go so far as say that the benefits of an efan diminish as the rpms go higher.

I actually bought mine soon after I had a day on I95 where it was 97* outside and I was in stop & go traffic due to a severe accident (like landed a helicopter on the highway for medical transport severe). Traffic never completely stopped so turning the truck off was not an option, but due to the constant crawling, I was forced to kill the A/C and roll the windows down and then ultimately turn on the heat to keep the truck out of the red zone. Since my efan pulls a constant 3300 cfm regardless of engine rpm, this is no longer a concern.
I also tend to drive a lot at very low speed while off-road hunting, fishing and camping so I see great benefit from the efan.

I think most (if not all) guys you see having to replace them are "pick 'n pull" guys who are taking efans out of junk yard cars. But I know where you are coming from, for about three years I carried my clutch fan in my tool box "just in case". I only took it out about a year and half or so ago when cleaning the toolbox out. In case the efan fails, it's literally a two minute job to spin the clutch fan back on.

By the way, I like the tire cherce. Always been a big Mickey Thompson/Dick Cepek fan. I had the MTXs (which were replaced by the MTZs in the product line) on my 2nd Gen truck and they were great off road and still had good tread when I sold the truck with 68k on the tires...
 

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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 11:57 AM
  #24  
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Right on hammer, that was well explained. There are just simply more points of failure on an e-fan compared to a clutch fan. Both have their advantages.

I am loving the tires too, they are wearing extremely well and I must say those things lock up even in 3ft of snow. Everyone asks "well how do they perform in the rain?" - the answer is - quite well. They've got a soft tread compound with some siping so they grip well just about in any condition. I'd go as far to say that they're just as good as your average tire in icy conditions too. If I get 30k+ on them i'll be buying another set (possibly 35's if i'm running a 5" lift by then )

I guess my questions left unanswered are 2 things - Will a Pacesetter LT setup leave me with constant CELs? If not is it worth piecing a system together or just going with the dynatech kit that seems higher quality and perhaps more durable?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 01:50 PM
  #25  
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The dynatech is the king of headers IMO. When you buy their entire setup right down to the high flow cats, nothing compares to them on the dyno. But at 1/4 the cost, the Pacesetters are close enough that I personally won't see the difference. Now if I had a regular cab, 4x2, lowered and was going to the track, it'd be another story.

I've seen the dynatech throw codes though, as I have also seen just the Magnaflow high flow cats do the same on a truck that had a bone stock exhaust except the Maggy cats and a Maggy muffler. The better breathing is obviously out of the range that the PCM looks for as reported by the rearward O2 sensors. I'm not saying it will, because guys run both without a CEL, but I've seen and heard of them throwing the code as well.

The non-fouler trick always works for a rear O2 code though (search the FAQ section for it).

I have the Pacesetter LTs and have no codes. I moved my cats back about 18" and extended the rear O2 wires to reach which allowed for the extra length of the headers. I was prepared to do the non-foulers, but to date (4+ years after header install) have not had a code pop up. HOWEVER be aware that technically I am illegal and could fail emissions if I was in a testing state. Repositioning of the cats is a fail according to CARB standards.

In my case, if I was someplace where they only plug in and look for CELs, I'd be fine. If they did a visual, I'd be screwed. I have no clue if I'd fail a sniffer test or not.


While I'm at it being long winded, I'll throw another plus for the efan at you. When off-road and crossing deep mud/water/muck/etc. you can install a manual over-ride switch in the dash and be able to kill your fan until you cross to dry ground. This keeps you from sucking water/debris/muck/algea/etc. up into the fins of your radiator, clogging them up and causing cooling issues. This mod isn't for everyone and yes, I agree the chances of an efan failing are greater than a clutch fan, but for some the benefits outweigh the potential for problems. Like a lot of mods, you just have to inspect things for issues on a regular basis. No different than going to headers. You should inspect the header bolts on a much more regular basis than you'd need to inspect the stock exhaust manifold...
 

Last edited by HammerZ71; Jan 19, 2011 at 01:59 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 10:07 PM
  #26  
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how much does that detroit tt/4.56 gear combo run a guy??
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 10:51 PM
  #27  
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I think they are around $700-$800 before install
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 10:19 AM
  #28  
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Yeah as far as I know, it shouldn't be a problem for me to pass inspection in NY as long as i'm not throwing codes. Non-foulers would be a nice last resort. My concern with the Pacesetters is a question of how durable are they? Are they even stainless? Is it worth it to get the "Armor Coat"? would that help them last in the salty upstate NY winters?

Second part of the question is, what else would I really need to buy besides the pacesetters themselves if I went with them? Just a magna Y pipe? Do I just keep the stock cats? (is there even a way to keep the cats at their initial location with the pacesetters?)

Appreciate the help!


Originally Posted by HammerZ71
The dynatech is the king of headers IMO. When you buy their entire setup right down to the high flow cats, nothing compares to them on the dyno. But at 1/4 the cost, the Pacesetters are close enough that I personally won't see the difference. Now if I had a regular cab, 4x2, lowered and was going to the track, it'd be another story.

I've seen the dynatech throw codes though, as I have also seen just the Magnaflow high flow cats do the same on a truck that had a bone stock exhaust except the Maggy cats and a Maggy muffler. The better breathing is obviously out of the range that the PCM looks for as reported by the rearward O2 sensors. I'm not saying it will, because guys run both without a CEL, but I've seen and heard of them throwing the code as well.

The non-fouler trick always works for a rear O2 code though (search the FAQ section for it).

I have the Pacesetter LTs and have no codes. I moved my cats back about 18" and extended the rear O2 wires to reach which allowed for the extra length of the headers. I was prepared to do the non-foulers, but to date (4+ years after header install) have not had a code pop up. HOWEVER be aware that technically I am illegal and could fail emissions if I was in a testing state. Repositioning of the cats is a fail according to CARB standards.

In my case, if I was someplace where they only plug in and look for CELs, I'd be fine. If they did a visual, I'd be screwed. I have no clue if I'd fail a sniffer test or not.


While I'm at it being long winded, I'll throw another plus for the efan at you. When off-road and crossing deep mud/water/muck/etc. you can install a manual over-ride switch in the dash and be able to kill your fan until you cross to dry ground. This keeps you from sucking water/debris/muck/algea/etc. up into the fins of your radiator, clogging them up and causing cooling issues. This mod isn't for everyone and yes, I agree the chances of an efan failing are greater than a clutch fan, but for some the benefits outweigh the potential for problems. Like a lot of mods, you just have to inspect things for issues on a regular basis. No different than going to headers. You should inspect the header bolts on a much more regular basis than you'd need to inspect the stock exhaust manifold...
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 12:27 PM
  #29  
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I actually have a brand new magnaflow y pipe sitting around. You can buy it lol

And your best bet for a coating is to buy it uncoated and get your local shop to ceramic coat it. If you are in a fairly big city there will be at least one
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 01:03 PM
  #30  
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Haha what about the jet hot coatings and ceramic coatings offered from moe's? I noticed pacesetter makes a Y pipe specifically for their LT as well. Not sure how it compares to the magnaflows fit
 
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