What is realitic fuel economy for 2500
i wouldn't consider a first year cummins, 6.7, there were many buy backs as people had had nothing but problems with them. the main problem was soot, but there are more problems. they seemed to have worked the bugs out on the 2010/11s but guys i know with them are not getting much much better mpg than 2010/11 2500 hemi. also, the new 6.7s need to be worked and tow heavy fairly often or you will continue to have problems with the exhaust regeneration exhaust.. you can thank the tree huggers for all the new pollution crap cummins was forced to use for this. as someone posted, if you don't need a 2500 don't get one or be ready to shell out $$$$ for fuel.
The extra cost of diesel fuel right now is enough to make you think twice right now if you aren't towing constantly or towing really big right now too. Here it's 3.79 for midgrade and 4.31 for diesel. 13-19 vs 11-16? I know that varies quite a bit, but the diesel is around 12-15% higher pretty consistantly these days.
Hahahah, yeah, but the drivetrain is all the same and would be shot by then LOL!
The extra cost of diesel fuel right now is enough to make you think twice right now if you aren't towing constantly or towing really big right now too. Here it's 3.79 for midgrade and 4.31 for diesel. 13-19 vs 11-16? I know that varies quite a bit, but the diesel is around 12-15% higher pretty consistantly these days.
Regular and diesel are the same price here... $4.17 a gallon.
To the original poster. Along with resetting the "lie-o-meter", have you adjusted your speedo to read acurate speed/distance with the larger tires? That will sway your overall readout by roughly 12%... which is gonna be roughly a mile per gallon or more off. Your truck will in essence think you are not going as fast, or as many miles as you tavel, for each gallon of fuel
Last edited by olyelr; Apr 26, 2011 at 07:29 PM.
I am the originator of this post and have read with interest. My reason for posting is that I am considering a used replacement of some kind for my 04 GMC 2500 w/6 liter gas engine 4:10 rear. Have just under 100k miles. My truck is no economy vehicle and realistically sounds like the same type of mileage. I have always owned GM and am not sure about Dodge have never had one. I want to stay with gas mostly for truck cost reasons. My heaviest uses are periodic towing and snowplowing with a Boss 8'2" XT V. My truck carries the blade pretty well and pushes pretty well. I don't know anything about Dodge and frankly I'm afraid! It looks as though the Dodge is available with a 3.73 rear...can anyone confirm for years 04-06? Is it a mistake to get 3.73 vs. 4:10 for periodic towing and plowing in hopes of better fuel economy? Bed on the Dodge looks slightly shorter, I haul my four wheeler and the 6'6" bed allows me to close the gate. The other concern I have is the trans. I know a few guys locally who have Dodge and it seems there have been higher than what seems normal trans failures. I want durable with same tow and push ability without concern.
I've had 'em all. Seven full size 4x4 trucks in all. A Jeep J10 was my first, then two Fords (one a PowerStroke bought used, then a new '97 F150 5.4 that was my ultimate nightmare truck). Two Chevy's (hence the name HammerZ71) and two Rams (both the Chevys and Rams were purchased new).
I'll start with the ATV. My Can-Am fit fine with the tailgate closed and it has slightly oversized tires (about 1" larger diameter), it just makes it with about an inch to spare sitting on the open tailgate with my toolbox. Same with my 2000 Z71 about an inch to spare with toolbox.
Never had the 6.0L V8, both of my Chevy trucks had the 5.3 and I wasn't thrilled with them. The second truck was an Avalanche and it was woefully underpowered. The Z71 pickup was ok, but got real sluggish with just a body lift and 33" tires with the stock 3.73 gearing. Both GMs had some issues while under warranty, oil leaking/burning, driveshaft issue in the pickup in that it squealed like hell and the dealer had to grease the thing 3x in under 25k miles until a recall came out for a seal. Nothing major in either vehicle, nothing that left me on the side of the road (hello '97 Ford!!!) but both took their share of trips to the dealer for warranty issues.
Neither Ram has given me a hint of a problem. The '98 I had for 68k miles and it never saw the dealer, didn't even have the plenum issue that plaque so many 5.9s. The '04 has been back once, for a blown stock shock and that's it. Of course I have replaced the few "known issue" components myself thru adding mods, or knowing about them and choosing to put an aftermarket part in BEFORE they had a chance to be an issue.
So for me at least, the Rams have been the best quality.
About the gearing. I've said many times on this forum that IMO the MegaCab vehicles shouldn't be offered with a gas engine at all. Too damn heavy for a gasser, ESPECIALLY a gasser engine that makes all it's power and torque up high in the RPM band. A QC 2500 is ok as it's a good bit lighter, BUT I'm of the opinion it shouldn't be offered with the Hemi AND 3.73 gearing. Again, this engine doesn't really start to hit it's stride until RPMs get up around 2200 and with 3.73s it takes forever to get there. At 4.10 you get into the powerband at lower speeds, making HP and more importantly more torque available at a slower speed. The CTD makes so much torque down low, that 3.73s are fine, but NOT the gasser.
You'll actually gain MPGs in town with the 4.10s and even better with 4.56s due to the fact that you don't need nearly as much throttle to get rolling from a dead stop or accelerate from a slower speed. On the highway is the only place the 3.73s will be a benefit and may get you 1-2 mpgs better than the 4.10s.
For your intended use, if you are dead set on a gasser, I'd look hard for one with 4.10 gearing (or get the mindset that you are prepared to pay for a gear upgrade).
Hope this helps you in your search...
I'll start with the ATV. My Can-Am fit fine with the tailgate closed and it has slightly oversized tires (about 1" larger diameter), it just makes it with about an inch to spare sitting on the open tailgate with my toolbox. Same with my 2000 Z71 about an inch to spare with toolbox.
Never had the 6.0L V8, both of my Chevy trucks had the 5.3 and I wasn't thrilled with them. The second truck was an Avalanche and it was woefully underpowered. The Z71 pickup was ok, but got real sluggish with just a body lift and 33" tires with the stock 3.73 gearing. Both GMs had some issues while under warranty, oil leaking/burning, driveshaft issue in the pickup in that it squealed like hell and the dealer had to grease the thing 3x in under 25k miles until a recall came out for a seal. Nothing major in either vehicle, nothing that left me on the side of the road (hello '97 Ford!!!) but both took their share of trips to the dealer for warranty issues.
Neither Ram has given me a hint of a problem. The '98 I had for 68k miles and it never saw the dealer, didn't even have the plenum issue that plaque so many 5.9s. The '04 has been back once, for a blown stock shock and that's it. Of course I have replaced the few "known issue" components myself thru adding mods, or knowing about them and choosing to put an aftermarket part in BEFORE they had a chance to be an issue.
So for me at least, the Rams have been the best quality.
About the gearing. I've said many times on this forum that IMO the MegaCab vehicles shouldn't be offered with a gas engine at all. Too damn heavy for a gasser, ESPECIALLY a gasser engine that makes all it's power and torque up high in the RPM band. A QC 2500 is ok as it's a good bit lighter, BUT I'm of the opinion it shouldn't be offered with the Hemi AND 3.73 gearing. Again, this engine doesn't really start to hit it's stride until RPMs get up around 2200 and with 3.73s it takes forever to get there. At 4.10 you get into the powerband at lower speeds, making HP and more importantly more torque available at a slower speed. The CTD makes so much torque down low, that 3.73s are fine, but NOT the gasser.
You'll actually gain MPGs in town with the 4.10s and even better with 4.56s due to the fact that you don't need nearly as much throttle to get rolling from a dead stop or accelerate from a slower speed. On the highway is the only place the 3.73s will be a benefit and may get you 1-2 mpgs better than the 4.10s.
For your intended use, if you are dead set on a gasser, I'd look hard for one with 4.10 gearing (or get the mindset that you are prepared to pay for a gear upgrade).
Hope this helps you in your search...


