2007 Ram QC 4x4 Rear End Issues
#11
06-08-2011, 08:58 AM
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You still have not said if this truck has the Mopar Factory Limited Slip.
Do a search on here for "C-Clip", it's really the only weakness in the 9.25" AAM axle, but it's a HUGE one!
Short of having a balky LSD, I really can't imagine you'd have a problem. However, THEY DID EXPLAIN TO YOU HOW TO PROPERLY BREAK IN A NEW RING AND PINION, didn't they?
IT IS VERY CRUCIAL THEY BE ALLOWED TO SEAT PROPERLY OR YOU'LL BE BACK THERE AGAIN. Could this be why the second set failed? Did you have the break-in lube replaced at 500 miles when they repaired the rear 12k miles ago? I'm not trying to be an a$$ here, but a new ring & pinion (even if set perfectly at install) has no chance of longevity of not broken in properly and may be your entire problem. The phosphorous coating they ship new gears with will break down the gear oil VERY QUICKLY, so if you were still running the oil they put in there at your last rebuild, it could be the reason your rear end failed with only 12k on the rebuild.
If you have ANY questions on how to break in a new Ring & Pinion, then go here:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...new-gears.html
Another excellent source for information regarding a ring/pinion or axles in general is Randy's Ring & Pinion. Their sales people know more technical sh*t about axles than most places tech people.
http://www.ringpinion.com/FAQ.aspx#37
Do a search on here for "C-Clip", it's really the only weakness in the 9.25" AAM axle, but it's a HUGE one!
Short of having a balky LSD, I really can't imagine you'd have a problem. However, THEY DID EXPLAIN TO YOU HOW TO PROPERLY BREAK IN A NEW RING AND PINION, didn't they?
IT IS VERY CRUCIAL THEY BE ALLOWED TO SEAT PROPERLY OR YOU'LL BE BACK THERE AGAIN. Could this be why the second set failed? Did you have the break-in lube replaced at 500 miles when they repaired the rear 12k miles ago? I'm not trying to be an a$$ here, but a new ring & pinion (even if set perfectly at install) has no chance of longevity of not broken in properly and may be your entire problem. The phosphorous coating they ship new gears with will break down the gear oil VERY QUICKLY, so if you were still running the oil they put in there at your last rebuild, it could be the reason your rear end failed with only 12k on the rebuild.
If you have ANY questions on how to break in a new Ring & Pinion, then go here:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...new-gears.html
Another excellent source for information regarding a ring/pinion or axles in general is Randy's Ring & Pinion. Their sales people know more technical sh*t about axles than most places tech people.
http://www.ringpinion.com/FAQ.aspx#37
I did a google search for the Lube part#'s and found this: (look under Power Train: Drive Line) SAME ISSUES AS MINE. http://www.faqs.org/car/dodge-ram1500-crewcab-4x4-lwb/
By the way the part# for the Lube is Qty.3 6800305-AB and Qty.1 4318060-AB neither one says break-in.
Thanks AGAIN. Tom
Last edited by tomalaina; 06-08-2011 at 09:14 AM.
#12
06-08-2011, 11:17 AM
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Sorry Yes a factory LSD - and NOPE The dealer did say to do anything for break in. Just here are the keys and your all set. Thanks for the info and i will lissen for the whine.
I did a google search for the Lube part#'s and found this: (look under Power Train: Drive Line) SAME ISSUES AS MINE. http://www.faqs.org/car/dodge-ram1500-crewcab-4x4-lwb/
By the way the part# for the Lube is Qty.3 6800305-AB and Qty.1 4318060-AB neither one says break-in.
Thanks AGAIN. Tom
I did a google search for the Lube part#'s and found this: (look under Power Train: Drive Line) SAME ISSUES AS MINE. http://www.faqs.org/car/dodge-ram1500-crewcab-4x4-lwb/
By the way the part# for the Lube is Qty.3 6800305-AB and Qty.1 4318060-AB neither one says break-in.
Thanks AGAIN. Tom
nateroach
#13
06-08-2011, 04:02 PM
I would be willing to guess this was the cause of premature failure on the last repair. Gears have a pretty specific break in period and procedure. As long as the installer did their part and you follow the break in guide lines i see no reason that it would not be reliable.
nateroach
nateroach
Yep, Nate, that was pretty much what I was alluding to in my post (#9), I'm betting the chain of events here was the diff oil was never changed at 30k, which probably would have caught a C-Clip failure. Factory POS LSD did the differential in by 40 some odd thousand miles (as does happen A LOT).
Rebuild was done, but no break-in procedure was followed and they may have even not been set just right and now the guy is back to square one. BUT now he knows how to break them in and that the lube should be changed right after break-in. I agree with you, if he follows the procedure, assuming the ring and pinion were shimmed right, he should have no more issues. I REALLY like DANA axles, but I have to admit, the AAMs at the same diameter are just as strong, if not a bit stronger...
#15
06-20-2011, 03:10 PM
How did the pattern look on the gears? You should have seen a nice, even break in pattern. Also a small amount of very fine metal particles in the oil would be normal, as is a slight discoloration from the phosphorus coating burning off.
The biggest tell-tale on if they were set perfectly would be a whine though. If you don't notice a whine, then I think you'll be fine.
Also the RP runs a tad cooler than most other lubes, even other pure synthetics, so that was a good move IMO...
The biggest tell-tale on if they were set perfectly would be a whine though. If you don't notice a whine, then I think you'll be fine.
Also the RP runs a tad cooler than most other lubes, even other pure synthetics, so that was a good move IMO...
#16
06-21-2011, 01:41 PM
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How did the pattern look on the gears? You should have seen a nice, even break in pattern. Also a small amount of very fine metal particles in the oil would be normal, as is a slight discoloration from the phosphorus coating burning off.
The biggest tell-tale on if they were set perfectly would be a whine though. If you don't notice a whine, then I think you'll be fine.
Also the RP runs a tad cooler than most other lubes, even other pure synthetics, so that was a good move IMO...
The biggest tell-tale on if they were set perfectly would be a whine though. If you don't notice a whine, then I think you'll be fine.
Also the RP runs a tad cooler than most other lubes, even other pure synthetics, so that was a good move IMO...
Everything looked good. Yeah i did notice a slight discoloration but remembered what you said about the breakin lube. No Whine - but the other one didnt whine until just before it broke.
I did have a question about doing the front diff. - What amount of fluid is in it. I did a quick search for Fluid Capacity for that and tranny, etc but didnt find anything. Thanks again for your help
#17
04-16-2012, 10:14 AM
Only a very few (very few) threads I have seen where the rear locked up and cause snapping of the drive shaft. I can think of maybe 2?? MAYBE 3.
But I would THINK for it to lock up something in the diff went really bad and caused binding which caused the lock up. Please let us know what the dealer says.
Im certainly interested.
But I would THINK for it to lock up something in the diff went really bad and caused binding which caused the lock up. Please let us know what the dealer says.
Im certainly interested.
After speaking to scrapyards and mechanics I'm realizing how common this is for my truck, and how rare the replacement parts are as a result.
I need a rear end and paying cash, anyone wanna sell me one ?