If you don't mind paying and want a place to stand behind their work. Go to the dealer. If you buy the parts from them they will warrantee everything. I think it
s 1yr/12kmi for that stuff? They will prob be $1g per axle. Make sure they charge you book time and not actual labor time. Aint no different instaling new gears of your choice as it is for warrantee work. You can get this info online as for how much labor time is involved.
4:56's they must gring the carrier pin to make them fit, so they might get you for an additional hour, but it shouldn't be more.

As for the dealer worrying about the speedometer, tell them you don't care about the speedometer and they are only getting paid to install the gears properly. The speedo will be your issue, not thers. Then and only then will they be fine with it regardless of what the situation is which is you probably talked to a service advisor and not an actual Technician. Service advisors all think they know everything. I haven't met one that didn't!

 

speed sensors are downwind of the pumpkin... it isn't an issue.. if an installer insists that it is, find a new one.. installer, that is..

and not to dispute dirtydog, but most dealers have folks that have only worked on differentials in school.. the real experience is at offroad shops.. or tranny shops.. mostly offroad shops though.. they likely do more differentials than anyone.. mostly on pitifully under powered jeeps...

 

Pyro originally got a quote from his local dealer for 4.56s in his 4x2, if I remember right they quoted $2200 'dog... He came over hear and got it done for $600, I know the $1600 difference is nothing to a big spender like you, but for most of these guys.....


LMAO...

 

Slight change of plans.
I have to be in Nashville later in the week, so I called 4WP there.
They are going to do the gear change for me. They were a little cheaper and many times more knowledgeable than the Memphis location and also guaranteed there will be no whine in the gears when they install them. They seemed much more confident in their ability to correctly install gears. Thanks for your help.

 

Well, after much reading, head banging and bean counting, I have decided to have a DTT installed while they are in there. I would kick myself if the stock ant-spin gave up the ghost and I had to pay for the labor to go back in there to replace it or worse exploded and trashed the gears. Wife has the evil stare tonight, I am trying to explain that I should be saving a lot of money in the long run. The truck has 65K miles on it and I would rather not have to repeat this in another 40-50K.
I noticed Eaton does not recomend synthetic. Does anyone know why? Should I ignore their statement and put RP in after my breakin period?

 

Good decision going with DTT at the same time.

 

I wasn't aware Eaton doesn't want synthetic with the DTT, when there was an actual Detroit, there only stipulation was the DTT was not to be used with tires over 33" (one of the reasons I went with an Auburn). Synthetic WAS fine then.

I can understand why Auburn doesn't want it, synthetic has a higher lubrication value than standard and can cause clutch packs to slip even with the use of a friction modifier.

But the DTT has no clutch packs, it's basically a worm gear driven unit. Synthetic vs. Dinosaur guts oil should have no bearing.

I use a conventional Lucas product in the rear, every 15k and RP in the front, every 30k. Makes life easy, every 2nd time I do the rear diff, I do the front.

It's up to you what you use, but obviously the likelihood of voiding the warranty is there if the unit should fail on you...

 

Installer told me about using dino with DTT. I found the link here.
http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsS...ials/index.htm

It looks like it is more of a recomendation than a requirement, especially since no addatives are required. I would think synthetic would be the way to go.