Started out as Brakes, Rotors, and Shocks
As the title states this project started out as a simple maintenance job. Once it was off the ground I found a bad lower ball joint. Off came the front wheels and I noticed both outer tie rods with the boots wide open. Then there was a slight leak in the steering rack. Given that the truck is almost 11 yrs. old I decided to do all the ball joints, rack, tie rods, swaybar links, bearings, as well as brakes rotors and shocks. I also ordered new halfshaft assemblies too. Going to turn up the tortion bars too.






Yeah the truck is almost 11yrs. old and only has 59000 mi. on it. Since I don't drive it that much I could order everything online and wait for the parts. All in all parts were around $1800 shipped. Would have been over $2100 from the local part stores.I already have the new brakes, rotors, and shocks on the rear. Went with Power Stop ceramic brakes and drilled and slotted rotors and Rancho RS9000 XL shocks.
I feel your pain... I just did:
- upper and lower ball joints both sides
- bilstien shocks on front, procomp on back..
- half shafts both sides
- new wheels/tires.. stage 8 spoke 5 w/ nitto dura grappler 285/75/17's
- tie rods
- rack
- alignment
I purchased most off of rockauto, some off of autoanything..
I paid for the ball joints and half shafts to be installed (which killed me having someone else work on my rig, but time just wouldn't allow me to).. total investment: $2600, including wheels and tires.. I hope to get $~800ish for the motometal 951's with cepek fcii 35x12.5x20's back...
I highly rec using serviceable ball joints.. and I don't rec those rancho shocks.. the bilstiens are in the same price range and are superior-
ask me how I know..
all told, though, it's like driving a new truck now.. the ol' 5.9, which I keep tuned as tight as possible and have eliminated all the parasites off of that I could, is netting me around 14MPG overall, and I've seen as high as 17MPG on the highway over a hundred or so mile run..
I hope you have similar results from your venture!!!
- upper and lower ball joints both sides
- bilstien shocks on front, procomp on back..
- half shafts both sides
- new wheels/tires.. stage 8 spoke 5 w/ nitto dura grappler 285/75/17's
- tie rods
- rack
- alignment
I purchased most off of rockauto, some off of autoanything..
I paid for the ball joints and half shafts to be installed (which killed me having someone else work on my rig, but time just wouldn't allow me to).. total investment: $2600, including wheels and tires.. I hope to get $~800ish for the motometal 951's with cepek fcii 35x12.5x20's back...
I highly rec using serviceable ball joints.. and I don't rec those rancho shocks.. the bilstiens are in the same price range and are superior-
ask me how I know..
all told, though, it's like driving a new truck now.. the ol' 5.9, which I keep tuned as tight as possible and have eliminated all the parasites off of that I could, is netting me around 14MPG overall, and I've seen as high as 17MPG on the highway over a hundred or so mile run..
I hope you have similar results from your venture!!!
I feel your pain... I just did:
- upper and lower ball joints both sides
- bilstien shocks on front, procomp on back..
- half shafts both sides
- new wheels/tires.. stage 8 spoke 5 w/ nitto dura grappler 285/75/17's
- tie rods
- rack
- alignment
I purchased most off of rockauto, some off of autoanything..
I paid for the ball joints and half shafts to be installed (which killed me having someone else work on my rig, but time just wouldn't allow me to).. total investment: $2600, including wheels and tires.. I hope to get $~800ish for the motometal 951's with cepek fcii 35x12.5x20's back...
I highly rec using serviceable ball joints.. and I don't rec those rancho shocks.. the bilstiens are in the same price range and are superior-
ask me how I know..
all told, though, it's like driving a new truck now.. the ol' 5.9, which I keep tuned as tight as possible and have eliminated all the parasites off of that I could, is netting me around 14MPG overall, and I've seen as high as 17MPG on the highway over a hundred or so mile run..
I hope you have similar results from your venture!!!
- upper and lower ball joints both sides
- bilstien shocks on front, procomp on back..
- half shafts both sides
- new wheels/tires.. stage 8 spoke 5 w/ nitto dura grappler 285/75/17's
- tie rods
- rack
- alignment
I purchased most off of rockauto, some off of autoanything..
I paid for the ball joints and half shafts to be installed (which killed me having someone else work on my rig, but time just wouldn't allow me to).. total investment: $2600, including wheels and tires.. I hope to get $~800ish for the motometal 951's with cepek fcii 35x12.5x20's back...
I highly rec using serviceable ball joints.. and I don't rec those rancho shocks.. the bilstiens are in the same price range and are superior-
ask me how I know..
all told, though, it's like driving a new truck now.. the ol' 5.9, which I keep tuned as tight as possible and have eliminated all the parasites off of that I could, is netting me around 14MPG overall, and I've seen as high as 17MPG on the highway over a hundred or so mile run..
I hope you have similar results from your venture!!!
Good luck on the build Lifttruck! We appreciate the support from the both of you.
The Rancho's are a good shock. Which Billy's are you talking about- the 5100 adjustable? If so that is a really nice shock (and upgrade) and we sell a ton of them for the Rams.
The Rancho's are a good shock. Which Billy's are you talking about- the 5100 adjustable? If so that is a really nice shock (and upgrade) and we sell a ton of them for the Rams.
Bing-Bing... 5100's...
I've always hesitated to purchase top end shocks for my truck.. I went ahead and did it this time due to the wallow of the gawd awful RXC shocks that were on it.. funny, because I am a huge proponent for top notch shocks on my mt.bikes and moto's.. racing cars? uh, yeah.. shock as huge.. but for a truck?
I should have done it years ago.. I am super pleased with the 5100's..
re ranchos: the baffle and valving on rancho's is inferior to billy's.. the only one that compares in performance, it's been my experience, does it through all together different means- air baffles such as found on FoxRacing shocks.. if you achieve full range of travel on the rancho's, you'll discover the limitations of the baffles and valving.. unless you send them to someone like push industries, or suspension experts, you're not getting near the performance..
caveat: i knew the truck would benefit from decent shocks, i just didn't want to spend the $$.. I finally did it, and expect similar results here as with other applications such as dedicated off road rigs..
I've always hesitated to purchase top end shocks for my truck.. I went ahead and did it this time due to the wallow of the gawd awful RXC shocks that were on it.. funny, because I am a huge proponent for top notch shocks on my mt.bikes and moto's.. racing cars? uh, yeah.. shock as huge.. but for a truck?
I should have done it years ago.. I am super pleased with the 5100's..
re ranchos: the baffle and valving on rancho's is inferior to billy's.. the only one that compares in performance, it's been my experience, does it through all together different means- air baffles such as found on FoxRacing shocks.. if you achieve full range of travel on the rancho's, you'll discover the limitations of the baffles and valving.. unless you send them to someone like push industries, or suspension experts, you're not getting near the performance..
caveat: i knew the truck would benefit from decent shocks, i just didn't want to spend the $$.. I finally did it, and expect similar results here as with other applications such as dedicated off road rigs..
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Well strike one on Rock Auto. My second batch of parts that I ordered started arriving today. I ordered two greasable stabilized link pins. They were shipped from two different warehouses. One was correct and one was in the correct package which had clearly been opened and taped closed. The link pin in that box was not only clearly not of the same production quality and finish. It was not even a greasable part. After talking to Rock Auto's customer service they would not expedite a correct replacement part to cover their mistake. Now another four day wait for one link pin.





