I would love to have a Engine hoist. It would make everything easier

 

$129 at harbor freight. Wait for it to go on sale. I got the one you have to disassemble to store. it's cheaper than the fold up one ($169 on sale, reg 199).

 

Im looking to borrow one from a family member but this will be something i get as soon as they go on sale


http://www.harborfreight.com/shop-cr...ble-69051.html

 

Port polishing and gasket matching has been around since Christ was a corporal... I've never ever EVER heard of anyone who's taken the time to do be disappointed except when they fudged it up by gouging or going off accidentally knicking the mating surface..

For every 10cfm THROUGH the engine, add 20# of tq.. tq and hp are related, as one measures twisting power and one measures the ability to do work (time it takes to move 550# 1 foot)... There is a formula that takes the tq at a given rpm and translates it to hp, which is what a Dyno does- it actually measures tq and runs it through that formula..

If you've added 10cfm at 1500rpm, you've added 1hp.. it grows exponentially from there to peak, or where the maximum volume of air has reached the maximum velocity for it to be crammed into and out of the engine..

Port matching and polishing can easily add 5cfm per runner/intake valve and out each exhaust valve/port.. that's five per cylinder... That's 4hp @1500rpm, or likely 25~30hp @4000rpm, and for just port polishing and gasket matching.. if your engine is apart anyway, and you're looking for more performance, its only smart to do... It's the cheapest and most sound hp to be found, that is SOLID hp, and not some trickery of tune, or bolted on gadget.. well, other than boost that bolts on.. but even with boost, we're still talking more cfm's through the engine, no? ..

 

Good info Drew. Makes me really want to do this now

 

 

Yes Drew...good info for these people. When porting, I removed a good quarter inch of meat off one side. about an 8th of the other two and just made a smoother path above the coolant path (the hump at the bottom of the port). Most botched porting jobs are usually because too much meat is taken away in this area and you break through into the coolant path through the cylinder head. Getting a nick in the mating surface is an easy fix. Intake a lot harder than the exhaust, but both easily repairable. The right gasket or some silicone is a cheap easy fix for that.

 

 

What did you aint the valve cover with?

 

Duplicolor Blue Metalic Engine Enamel found at any local auto parts store. Cleaned the valve covers thuroughly, Used the Duplicolor Prep Spray to clean the parts off. Then I used the Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter. Then over the course of 6-8 hours, I would put a LIGHT coat of color on every 15-30 minutes until I got it to the dark shade that I wanted. After that I followed it up with LIGHT coats of Duplicolor Clear Engine Enamel every 30 minutes to an hour until I was out of clear. Let them sit for 2 days before moving to ensure that the paint has cured. You can also put them in the oven on warm - 200 degrees for 10 minutes, then let it cool for a minimum of 20 minutes to speed up the process. If the paint is not cured before you install them. They WILL chip easy over time and you may leave unwanted finger prints in the paint. I know from experience.