Should I buy?
#1
Should I buy?
I'm in the market for a weekend work truck. Something I can use for projects around the house, hauling loads of dirt/gravel, lumber, etc. I don't want to spend a lot for something that won't be a daily driver; so I've been looking at lots of mid-90's Chevys and Fords in the $2,000 range.
I recently ran across a listing for a 2006 4X4 quad cab Ram, with 300,000 on the odometer. Asking price is $2500. Body has a bit of rust, but overall it looks pretty decent for that many miles.
That seems too good to be true to me. Sure it has a lot of miles, but that doesn't really have an affect on my needs... unless these trucks become so unreliable as they age that I can't even count on it to make it 30 miles a week.
So, to you-the experts-does that sound like too good of a deal? Would you buy it?
I recently ran across a listing for a 2006 4X4 quad cab Ram, with 300,000 on the odometer. Asking price is $2500. Body has a bit of rust, but overall it looks pretty decent for that many miles.
That seems too good to be true to me. Sure it has a lot of miles, but that doesn't really have an affect on my needs... unless these trucks become so unreliable as they age that I can't even count on it to make it 30 miles a week.
So, to you-the experts-does that sound like too good of a deal? Would you buy it?
#4
This will be the first vehicle I've ever purchased to only use once or twice a week, and won't need to get me to work every day.
I mean I assume it was maintained some-what well in order to make it to the 300K mark, but have no clue if or when that maintenance stopped.
#6
What was causing the misfire? Run it for latent codes? See if you can find a code reader that shows when the CEL was last cleared if there are no codes. The "bought cheap a few weeks ago, fixed, and flipped for profit" thing would have my eyebrow raised on a vehicle like that.
Pull what plugs you can and examine them, put it on a lift/jack and test out the joints and bearings, smell all the fluids, start it cold and see what it looks like/sounds like/smells like on start up, etc. From what I recall on here, 2006 models had a lot of front end suspension issues, as it was the first year moving away from the torsion bar setup. Are there ANY maintenance/repair records? Run a Carfax or similar and see if anything major has happened to it. Is it a clean title or salvage?
Being only 11 years old, those are probably highway miles (my 2005 is still shy of 100K with many cross-country road trips and a year off the road), so as long as it's been maintained, the transfer case and differentials are good, and it is in good enough shape aesthetically to please you, it's probably a pretty good price for a weekend warrior or farm vehicle. But, what's too good to be true... usually is.
Pull what plugs you can and examine them, put it on a lift/jack and test out the joints and bearings, smell all the fluids, start it cold and see what it looks like/sounds like/smells like on start up, etc. From what I recall on here, 2006 models had a lot of front end suspension issues, as it was the first year moving away from the torsion bar setup. Are there ANY maintenance/repair records? Run a Carfax or similar and see if anything major has happened to it. Is it a clean title or salvage?
Being only 11 years old, those are probably highway miles (my 2005 is still shy of 100K with many cross-country road trips and a year off the road), so as long as it's been maintained, the transfer case and differentials are good, and it is in good enough shape aesthetically to please you, it's probably a pretty good price for a weekend warrior or farm vehicle. But, what's too good to be true... usually is.
#7
What was causing the misfire? Run it for latent codes? See if you can find a code reader that shows when the CEL was last cleared if there are no codes. The "bought cheap a few weeks ago, fixed, and flipped for profit" thing would have my eyebrow raised on a vehicle like that.
Pull what plugs you can and examine them, put it on a lift/jack and test out the joints and bearings, smell all the fluids, start it cold and see what it looks like/sounds like/smells like on start up, etc. From what I recall on here, 2006 models had a lot of front end suspension issues, as it was the first year moving away from the torsion bar setup. Are there ANY maintenance/repair records? Run a Carfax or similar and see if anything major has happened to it. Is it a clean title or salvage?
Being only 11 years old, those are probably highway miles (my 2005 is still shy of 100K with many cross-country road trips and a year off the road), so as long as it's been maintained, the transfer case and differentials are good, and it is in good enough shape aesthetically to please you, it's probably a pretty good price for a weekend warrior or farm vehicle. But, what's too good to be true... usually is.
Pull what plugs you can and examine them, put it on a lift/jack and test out the joints and bearings, smell all the fluids, start it cold and see what it looks like/sounds like/smells like on start up, etc. From what I recall on here, 2006 models had a lot of front end suspension issues, as it was the first year moving away from the torsion bar setup. Are there ANY maintenance/repair records? Run a Carfax or similar and see if anything major has happened to it. Is it a clean title or salvage?
Being only 11 years old, those are probably highway miles (my 2005 is still shy of 100K with many cross-country road trips and a year off the road), so as long as it's been maintained, the transfer case and differentials are good, and it is in good enough shape aesthetically to please you, it's probably a pretty good price for a weekend warrior or farm vehicle. But, what's too good to be true... usually is.
I went and looked at it last night, and it still has a major miss-fire, CEL, and low speed shudder. I was honestly impressed with the condition of the interior, exterior (minus rust over the rear wheel arches), the feel of the suspension, and the brakes. Before trading for a Hyaudia Sonata to save on gas I had a 2006 Silverado with just at 100K, and honestly once up to speed this truck rode better than my Silverado.
I even think I could probably figure out the miss-fire... but the low speed shudder felt like transmission problems- and I don't want to jump down that rabbit hole for a weekend warrior.
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#9
I did end up with a Ram... though a 2nd Gen.
I made an offer today on a 1994 with 131,000 miles. It needs a brake job, and the body is in rough shape, but the only rust it has is on the lower rockers and the motor sounded and felt great. No miss-fire, no knock, no stumble or surge. And it only cost $1500. If I was so inclined, I think a few hundred on new parts from JC Whitney and some weekends worth of elbow grease and it could be a really nice truck.
I made an offer today on a 1994 with 131,000 miles. It needs a brake job, and the body is in rough shape, but the only rust it has is on the lower rockers and the motor sounded and felt great. No miss-fire, no knock, no stumble or surge. And it only cost $1500. If I was so inclined, I think a few hundred on new parts from JC Whitney and some weekends worth of elbow grease and it could be a really nice truck.