6.1L cam in 5.7L
I know I saw a post on installing the 6.1 L cam from SRT8 in to 5.7L, but can't find the post. anything special need, or is it a direct bolt-in? Obviously, I'd replace the lifters, etc, but do I really need to replace valve springs? how much HP/Torque could I expect on bone stock motor?
thanks
thanks
i looked into this and was told by my mechanicyou don't NEED to replace valve springs but it would strongly be advised. It would be cheaper to have them replaced at the same time than the damage it could cause if something happens.
doing my swap next tuesday....
your gona to do the valve springs, its added insurance and if you pull the heads off will take an extra 2 hours or so. no biggy compared to a new engine.
tha swap is strait forward and simple but time consuming. im expecting 25-35 WHP with a cai and cutout. we'll see though by next friday.
http://www.hemitruckclub.com/Install...min%20Hemi.htm
i dont recomend swapping the springs with the heads still on. will take an estimated 2-6 hours longer from what others have experienced. pulling the heads will require new head gaskets and exhaust gaskets. all said and done ive spent like 280 for the cam, springs and gaskets and head bolts and crank bolt (gotta replace the head bolts too) compared to comp cams... the cam alone costs more.
your gona to do the valve springs, its added insurance and if you pull the heads off will take an extra 2 hours or so. no biggy compared to a new engine.
tha swap is strait forward and simple but time consuming. im expecting 25-35 WHP with a cai and cutout. we'll see though by next friday.
http://www.hemitruckclub.com/Install...min%20Hemi.htm
i dont recomend swapping the springs with the heads still on. will take an estimated 2-6 hours longer from what others have experienced. pulling the heads will require new head gaskets and exhaust gaskets. all said and done ive spent like 280 for the cam, springs and gaskets and head bolts and crank bolt (gotta replace the head bolts too) compared to comp cams... the cam alone costs more.
Go with the 6.1 pushrods too. The lobe shape on the 6.1 and aftermarket cams are different than the 5.7. Using the 5.7 pushrods with the 6.1 cam gives an incorrect rocker arm geometry in relationship with the pushrods. The 5.7 pushrods work, but for ease of mine go ahead and switch to the 6.1's.
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thanks; I didn't know the geometry was different on the two. I see you have the 6.1 crank, do you also have the 6.1 cam? what can I expect in gains versus the new comp cams (the mid range cam) ?
thanks
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