To do a search... anyways..

How hard is it to change plugs on a 2004 Hemi? My dad has gotten me into changing the plugs on all our vehicles, and he wants me to do his next.... how many plugs are needed, aren't there 16 plugs? Also, what kind do you all recommend? The service dept. said champions, and frowned upon the AutoLites... but every vehicle I've done in our house has gotten AutoLites and has no problems at all...

I'd like to get him plugs that are one temp range cooler than stock, so what should I be looking at???

Thanks everyone.....

 

changing the ones near the master cylinder is a pita. yep you need 16. i didn't fool around with different plugs cause of all the bad reviews. i just stuck with the stock champions. don't forget the antiseize when you install the new ones.

 

Antiseize?!?!?!

I uhmmmm....

Uh oh...

What happens if I don't have this on my new plugs on my truck, or my mom's Durango??????????

 

if you are threading dissimilar metals light corrosion may cause them to "stick" together. sparkplugs are steel and the hemi heads are aluminum. if enough corrosion develops it will be extreemely difficult to remove the plugs and you don't want to break them or strip out the threads in the head. on another vehicle i had a header stud that was nearly impossible to remove. i was lucky cause i had access to it and was able to remove it.
now i'm not trying to scare ya. i've had engines where antisieze wasn't used and it wasn't too bad.but i always used it when the new plugs went in. i'm just saying to play it safe. you only need a dab onthem and tighten them snug. if your durango has aluminum heads i would suggest antisieze there too.

 

So it'd be best to take the plugs out, and put this stuff on them, hey??

Crap.....looks like another day of busting my ***....

Oh well... I'm ready!!!!!

 

i would..........you will thank me later when you go to change your plugs again. just remember not to gob it on. all you need is a light coat on the threads almost like your painting.too much and the lubricity may cause you to over torque thus stripping out the threads in the head.......that would be a bad bad day. oh yeah, and don't get any on the electrodes of the plug. that is a bad move too. remember, not trying to scare ya. just looking out for ya, man. it's no sweat.

 

It took me about 4 hours the first time. Not really hard, just took my time. Be sure to take the top air tubes off. I used Autolite XP plugs and Bosch wireset. Autolite is still running a rebate on XP plugs, so you'll get some money back. It really helps to have flex socket or flex adapter too!!

 

what engine does the durango have. if it is the 5.2 or 5.9 your safe since the heads are iron.

BTW, never used anti-sieze for the plugs on my yoda(aluminum head) and never had a problem with them sticking. Dewalt is right though, play it safe and use some.

 

Sorry, I have to disagree on using the anti-sieze. Yes, anti-sieze is a great thing on dis-similar metals to prevent corrosion and stuck threads, but it is not needed on the plugs. I almost did it as well until I talked to a seniorDodge mech. This is why: The plugs on the Hemi are a tapered design, hence they are what they call a TQ critical design. The most important thing is to not exceed 15ft lbs tq. 13ft lb is what is called for. Using anti-seize actually lubricates the threads thereby actually allowing you to "over torque" the plug without it showing it on the tq wrench. Picture this, one complete turn of a bolt reads 1 ft lb of tq, add anti-sieze and you could actually go 1 1/4 turn and still read 1 ft lb but now the thread is over-tq'd. On most common uses, like your example of the header stud, no big deal, but I won't use it on my plugs. Besides, if you TQ them properly, even if they are corroded together, 13ft lbs wont be hard to loosen. Bottom line, the factory, via the manual, calls for a specific TQ but it does not tell you to use anti-sieze.