K&N Intake?
#31
10-03-2007, 12:08 AM
RE: K&N Intake?
ORIGINAL: XxSilentHawk99xX
haha Ill definetely look into a sway bar. any suggestions as to what I might buy? As far as my superchips tuner, I dont exactly remember, but i can look it up next time i take it in. My rim size is 17' on 33' tires. Oh btw, that website doesnt seem to produce that part number. If by chance you come across any other websites with that tube, let me know.
haha Ill definetely look into a sway bar. any suggestions as to what I might buy? As far as my superchips tuner, I dont exactly remember, but i can look it up next time i take it in. My rim size is 17' on 33' tires. Oh btw, that website doesnt seem to produce that part number. If by chance you come across any other websites with that tube, let me know.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...QQcmdZViewItem
Here anouther Company thats sales sway bars It Named Anco or something like that it seems chepper made than the Helwig Brand but the other bar is about $125.00 but you get what you pay for.
Chech out This Link about Sway Bars.
https://www.dodgeparts.com/index.php...5a3521d8da51ee
Here anouther Dodge parts Link They have good Prices also I ordered mine from The link I sent you before about the Intake Iit took about 3 days fore me to get mine after I ordered it.
https://www.dodgeparts.com/index.php...5a3521d8da51ee
Let us know what you end up Doing.
Oh Yea Thanks foe the Info for the rims I been wanting to change mine out I was not too sure if I want to fork out the cash for some 20"s or stay with 17"s.
#33
10-08-2007, 07:48 PM
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#34
10-23-2007, 12:22 PM
RE: K&N Intake?
Here is another option. I don't have any dyno sheets or 0-60 runs, but it sounds better than before, especially once the engine hits 2500rpm. From other areas in this thread and in the Dakota forums, this is good for 9-10hp. Here's a picture or two:
Not as good as AirRam's full CAI setup, but it does work...the picture (if I got it uploaded correctly) shows it installed in the truck. I started with a 90* elbow with 2 flared ends, but after I had hacked this one up I found some at Lowe's that had one straight 4" end and the other flared.
This would have been better...The straight pipe is about 10-11 inches long. I copied Mad Hemibut drilled a 1/2" hole (vice 3/8") in the final rubber reducer, primarily because the IAT sensor wires aren't long enough for me to mount it anywhere else. I figure a power wire will let me switch the rubber adapters and move it next to the air filter box... To drill the hole, I used a small piece of 1/8" wood trim clamped to both sides of the rubber adapter to keep it from wiggling around while I drilled thru the boards and the adapter. The IAT sensor is still a snug fit. I dabbed a little RTV around mine because I like to worry.
I have a 4.7L, but an engine is still an air pump, no matter what size. Cost me about $35.
[EDIT] I am running an AMSOIL air filter, and a AIRRAM air scoop.
[IMG]local://upfiles/54345/A044C09DECC2462B99365B509E5C287A.jpg[/IMG]
Not as good as AirRam's full CAI setup, but it does work...the picture (if I got it uploaded correctly) shows it installed in the truck. I started with a 90* elbow with 2 flared ends, but after I had hacked this one up I found some at Lowe's that had one straight 4" end and the other flared.
This would have been better...The straight pipe is about 10-11 inches long. I copied Mad Hemibut drilled a 1/2" hole (vice 3/8") in the final rubber reducer, primarily because the IAT sensor wires aren't long enough for me to mount it anywhere else. I figure a power wire will let me switch the rubber adapters and move it next to the air filter box... To drill the hole, I used a small piece of 1/8" wood trim clamped to both sides of the rubber adapter to keep it from wiggling around while I drilled thru the boards and the adapter. The IAT sensor is still a snug fit. I dabbed a little RTV around mine because I like to worry.I have a 4.7L, but an engine is still an air pump, no matter what size. Cost me about $35.
[EDIT] I am running an AMSOIL air filter, and a AIRRAM air scoop.
[IMG]local://upfiles/54345/A044C09DECC2462B99365B509E5C287A.jpg[/IMG]
#35
10-23-2007, 11:11 PM
RE: K&N Intake?
ORIGINAL: davb673
Here is another option. I don't have any dyno sheets or 0-60 runs, but it sounds better than before, especially once the engine hits 2500rpm. From other areas in this thread and in the Dakota forums, this is good for 9-10hp. Here's a picture or two:
Not as good as AirRam's full CAI setup, but it does work...the picture (if I got it uploaded correctly) shows it installed in the truck. I started with a 90* elbow with 2 flared ends, but after I had hacked this one up I found some at Lowe's that had one straight 4" end and the other flared.This would have been better...The straight pipe is about 10-11 inches long. I copied Mad Hemibut drilled a 1/2" hole (vice 3/8") in the final rubber reducer, primarily because the IAT sensor wires aren't long enough for me to mount it anywhere else. I figure a power wire will let me switch the rubber adapters and move it next to the air filter box... To drill the hole, I used a small piece of 1/8" wood trim clamped to both sides of the rubber adapter to keep it from wiggling around while I drilled thru the boards and the adapter. The IAT sensor is still a snug fit. I dabbed a little RTV around mine because I like to worry.
I have a 4.7L, but an engine is still an air pump, no matter what size. Cost me about $35.
[EDIT] I am running an AMSOIL air filter, and a AIRRAM air scoop.
[IMG]local://upfiles/54345/A044C09DECC2462B99365B509E5C287A.jpg[/IMG]
Here is another option. I don't have any dyno sheets or 0-60 runs, but it sounds better than before, especially once the engine hits 2500rpm. From other areas in this thread and in the Dakota forums, this is good for 9-10hp. Here's a picture or two:
Not as good as AirRam's full CAI setup, but it does work...the picture (if I got it uploaded correctly) shows it installed in the truck. I started with a 90* elbow with 2 flared ends, but after I had hacked this one up I found some at Lowe's that had one straight 4" end and the other flared.
This would have been better...The straight pipe is about 10-11 inches long. I copied Mad Hemibut drilled a 1/2" hole (vice 3/8") in the final rubber reducer, primarily because the IAT sensor wires aren't long enough for me to mount it anywhere else. I figure a power wire will let me switch the rubber adapters and move it next to the air filter box... To drill the hole, I used a small piece of 1/8" wood trim clamped to both sides of the rubber adapter to keep it from wiggling around while I drilled thru the boards and the adapter. The IAT sensor is still a snug fit. I dabbed a little RTV around mine because I like to worry.I have a 4.7L, but an engine is still an air pump, no matter what size. Cost me about $35.
[EDIT] I am running an AMSOIL air filter, and a AIRRAM air scoop.
[IMG]local://upfiles/54345/A044C09DECC2462B99365B509E5C287A.jpg[/IMG]
Also the liberty intake looks like it stock not shade tree mechanic look.
Check out this link about libetry intake
https://dodgeforum.com/upfiles/18195...41FC193A24.jpg
https://dodgeforum.com/upfiles/18195...41FC193A24.jpg
https://dodgeforum.com/m_859955/tm.htm
#36
10-24-2007, 12:25 PM
RE: K&N Intake?
Did not know about the Liberty intake. Would look better true, but I plan to wrap the pipe with insulation, so I can hide it...and keep a little heat out. 
What is the internal diameter of the Liberty intake, anyone know?
[EDIT] I also suggest cutting some holes in the lower (below the air filter flange) forward facing portion of the air filter box, and getting an AIRRAM air scoop. This will ensure the engine is getting all the air you can give it.
What is the internal diameter of the Liberty intake, anyone know?
[EDIT] I also suggest cutting some holes in the lower (below the air filter flange) forward facing portion of the air filter box, and getting an AIRRAM air scoop. This will ensure the engine is getting all the air you can give it.
#37
10-24-2007, 06:37 PM
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RE: K&N Intake?
I drove an 07 with 3.2x rear end and 6 speed trans. All I can say is YUCK!! My truck has the auto trans with the 3.93 factory gears, and it would blow that truck away anywhere from 0-90 mph. If anyone in here is looking at re-gearing, and you do not drive on the interstate a whole lot, (OR if you just keep it under 80) then go test drive a Ram with the 3.93 axle & positrac.You will love the difference! Its like a whole different truck! By the way, the truck I drove was also a long bed, but I cant see 100 lbs extra weight making THAT much difference. It's like the 3.7L V-6 was made to be run with the 3.93 gears.
ORIGINAL: marv02
If you regear it can be a good thing just dont go to far in either direction you will gain lowend and lose topend or gain some MPG but lose power beware.
I owned many Lifted oversized tire 4X4 been down that road many times before as for the recaling of the PCM most newer cars and trucks get there speedo readings from the tone ring in the rear end if you keep the same dia tire you should not have to redo the speedo readings.
I been thinking of regearing my truck from 321 to 373 or 390 it will give more out of the hole but will not be winding 3200RPMs at HWY speeds more youRPMs you turnmore gas you use, Yes RPMs are you freind thats where you make power at but it will cost you.
I found I rather rev a little on the high end as in 500 to 700 RMPs more than stock up on the Hwy you dont lose that much for MGP but off the line out of the hole and for towing you love it, If you go to far as in lower gear set sure you rip the tires off the truck beening burn out master but when you are RPMing 3500 at HWY speeds getting 7 MPG you be hatting life besides that I know I did not buy the V-6 for beening a power house I would of gotten the SRT10 for that.
If you regear it can be a good thing just dont go to far in either direction you will gain lowend and lose topend or gain some MPG but lose power beware.
I owned many Lifted oversized tire 4X4 been down that road many times before as for the recaling of the PCM most newer cars and trucks get there speedo readings from the tone ring in the rear end if you keep the same dia tire you should not have to redo the speedo readings.
I been thinking of regearing my truck from 321 to 373 or 390 it will give more out of the hole but will not be winding 3200RPMs at HWY speeds more youRPMs you turnmore gas you use, Yes RPMs are you freind thats where you make power at but it will cost you.
I found I rather rev a little on the high end as in 500 to 700 RMPs more than stock up on the Hwy you dont lose that much for MGP but off the line out of the hole and for towing you love it, If you go to far as in lower gear set sure you rip the tires off the truck beening burn out master but when you are RPMing 3500 at HWY speeds getting 7 MPG you be hatting life besides that I know I did not buy the V-6 for beening a power house I would of gotten the SRT10 for that.
