about air intake
I was lookin at different air intakes today and it raised a few questions for me. Without heading down the supercharging route (which i dont have the money for anyway), what air intake would give me the best performance? While at the auto parts store, the add said that the K&N would give me 21 hp boost on my HEMI, while the K&N website said i would only get about 10 with it, which should i believe? I am just looking for advice on the entire air intake subject.
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[IMG]local://upfiles/70350/3FB17C5FAD3542D690DA26FF54205A4C.jpg[/IMG]
i would believe the K&N probably, 10 is about right maybe even a few more .. 21 is kinda out there, if you have exhaust also its a good possibility though, keep in mind every hemi engine will probabaly dyno different numbers and react different to performance products, some people get a strong one, some get teh weak one for some reason, i would go with the 10 so you're not the guy who brags about his 5 billion horsepower then gets beat by a gay honda or somethin
try to stay away from oiled filters and go with dry flows instead. I bought an ebay ($75.00 shipped) aem/mopar clone and replaced the oiled k&n look alike to an amsoil dry flow...
I beg to differ on the oiled filters. There is absolutely nothing wrong with them. I had a K&N drop in filter but decided to upgrade to a K&N CAI and I could not have been happier.
K&N has been out there for a while and is always a good choice. Can't go wrong with them however I recently ordered a Volant for my '02 QC 4X4. A lot of people I've talked to say this is a great CAI it also comes with the option for a ram air setup if so desired. It is a closed box style unlike most which is supposed to get cooler air than traditional CAI's.
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[IMG]local://upfiles/70577/4222ECE9F25B463B85860BC46575C7C2.jpg[/IMG]
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Let me hook up a ODB-II scanner to your truck
so that I can read the manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP sensor)
and then I can make
any air intake show a big Horsepower gain
...just like most (dishonest) magazine tests do.
We will just take your truck out to a dry dirt road
and drive behind in the dust of another vehicle in front
for the relatively short time it takes to clog the factory filter
so that when we press the accelerator all the way down
the MAP sensor reads lower and lower
and the clogging goes on.
We can even predict in advance how much HP is being lost to clogging
with this MAP reading using a simple formula.
Then we will take the truck into a dyno and do a 'before' test
with this extremely dirty filter.
We will put on the aftermarket CAI and test on the dyno again
and depending on how clogged with dust the before test was
make whatever HP we wanted
So 10 HP, 21 HP, even 25 HP is easy to show as a gain on the dyno.
Re-read your magazine articles carefully looking for a sentence that says
"We installed a new, clean, factory specification filter for the Before dyno test"
That sentence won't be there,
unless it is a honest test like those below:
http://tinyurl.com/2j4gx3
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/g...ers/index.html
http://home.stny.rr.com/jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm
If you want to show even more HP gain
(or a loss on the factory filter)
we can move the electric cooling fan at the dyno house
so that it points at the right/wrong place
at the front of the vehicle.
This changes the temperature of the air going into the filter inlet
rather than relying on clogging the pressure.
In a similar way we can change the horsepower
by whether we leave the hood up or down
when the vehicle is on the dyno being tested.
Do you drive with your hood up?
With all that said
if you must lighten your wallet for a CAI
the Air Hammer seems to have the lowest restriction.
so that I can read the manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP sensor)
and then I can make
any air intake show a big Horsepower gain
...just like most (dishonest) magazine tests do.
We will just take your truck out to a dry dirt road
and drive behind in the dust of another vehicle in front
for the relatively short time it takes to clog the factory filter
so that when we press the accelerator all the way down
the MAP sensor reads lower and lower
and the clogging goes on.
We can even predict in advance how much HP is being lost to clogging
with this MAP reading using a simple formula.
Then we will take the truck into a dyno and do a 'before' test
with this extremely dirty filter.
We will put on the aftermarket CAI and test on the dyno again
and depending on how clogged with dust the before test was
make whatever HP we wanted
So 10 HP, 21 HP, even 25 HP is easy to show as a gain on the dyno.
Re-read your magazine articles carefully looking for a sentence that says
"We installed a new, clean, factory specification filter for the Before dyno test"
That sentence won't be there,
unless it is a honest test like those below:
http://tinyurl.com/2j4gx3
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/g...ers/index.html
http://home.stny.rr.com/jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm
If you want to show even more HP gain
(or a loss on the factory filter)
we can move the electric cooling fan at the dyno house
so that it points at the right/wrong place
at the front of the vehicle.
This changes the temperature of the air going into the filter inlet
rather than relying on clogging the pressure.
In a similar way we can change the horsepower
by whether we leave the hood up or down
when the vehicle is on the dyno being tested.
Do you drive with your hood up?
With all that said
if you must lighten your wallet for a CAI
the Air Hammer seems to have the lowest restriction.
^^^^^ Since I have this user blocked^^^^^
Let me guess what he said...
Bla, Bla, Bla, Sarcasm
Link
Link
Bla, Bla, Bla, More sarcasm
I have no clue as to any real world advice.
Did I get it?
Let me guess what he said...
Bla, Bla, Bla, Sarcasm
Link
Link
Bla, Bla, Bla, More sarcasm
I have no clue as to any real world advice.
Did I get it?





