what do you do? should you jack the front of the truck up or just leave it on the ground to do it?

 

jack it up unless you want to make your work harder on yourself. you can do it either way just easier to turn the bolt if you take the weight of the truck off the bars, youll just have to keep lowering it once in a while to see how much higher it is. its really up to you

 

Please do not leave it on the ground!! Torsion bar acts like a coil spring. get a GM ball joint press from autozone(loaner). Look on the bottom of your existing torsion key for a dimple to fit the threaded part of the press onto then get an impact gun (wrench if you need a workout) and tighten untill the bolt and keeper are unloaded, then unscrew the bolt, take out the small threaded keeper thenCAREFULLY loosen the press.Next : laugh allsinister like as friends run for cover out of fear of being hit by flying torsion bar/press/whatever...LOL. But seriously its under some pressure here so be careful. Hit the loosenedkey a few times with a BFH (big f-ing hammer) to jar it loose. Then slide the torsion bar rearward allowing the key to drop slightly onto the thinner part of the barthen back foward and slide the key off the torsion bar. Make note of thethe original key position and complete the process in reverse with the new key. Took me less than an hour with noticeable results. 1/4 inch of bolt movement equals 1" up front. Make sure to measure front prior to installing as mine and otherson this forumwere different heights on each side stock. Way to go Mopar!!!!! Let me know. I'm on the 4.7 Perf. thread a lot.

 

^^those are the 2 different methods for leveling it. New keys or cranking the bolts...

 

cranking the bolts is obviously the cheaper way to go...we did this on our 02 ram we had....gave it enough of a lift to make it sit level, but next time i buy a torsion bar truck i'll just put a suspension lift on it...much funner

 

I totally agree! I bought the different keys, and it has been nothing but issues. If you go with the new keys that lets you crank it higher than the stock ones, you are forced to buy longer shocks. The longer shocks will allow the outer CV boot contact the lower control arm when the front suspension is unloaded, and will eventually tear the boot open. Also, the over all angle is too much for the CV boots themselves. The joints do not have any issue, just the rubber boots. I've have to replace 2 boots on the driver side (1 outer, and 1 inner) in 10,000 miles. Just crank the fron an inch or so to level it out, or go all out with a suspension lift. Just my $.02