04 RAM 1500 - Lift / Tire Questions
Hi All,
It's been a few years since I've checked the forum, but I am in need of tires now and would like to lift my truck a few inches. Does anyone have any suggestions for a 2-3" body lift and tires? I would like to stay with the stock 20's but have a more aggressive looking tire than the stock tires. I remember seeing a post with a 2" body lift, new tires on the stock 20's and it looked great. Any suggestions, picture would be great too!
Thanks!
It's been a few years since I've checked the forum, but I am in need of tires now and would like to lift my truck a few inches. Does anyone have any suggestions for a 2-3" body lift and tires? I would like to stay with the stock 20's but have a more aggressive looking tire than the stock tires. I remember seeing a post with a 2" body lift, new tires on the stock 20's and it looked great. Any suggestions, picture would be great too!
Thanks!
You have an '04 so you have torsion bars. Options are:
1) Crank the T-bars for free. Nets a an inch or 2 at the most.
2) New Torsion Keys. Cost about $200. Nets 2-2.5 inches.
3) Body Lift. About $350. Nets 3".
4) Suspension Lift. Cost $1200 and up. Nets 4" or more.
You have an IFS truck. As such I'd not go more than 4-6" and keep the tire size at no more than 35". Although people do go larger, you are asking for things to break in an IFS front end with tires larger than 35". Stock, you can fit 33's and you could clear 35's with as little as a torsion crank, but may scrub off road. The level kit (new keys) would be a good, inexpensive choice for a mild lift that would clear the 35's nicely.
Mickey Thompson ATZ's or Dick Cepek FCII's would be a good choice of tire in either size for a A/T tirewith a balance of good on pavement characteristics and off road capabilities.
1) Crank the T-bars for free. Nets a an inch or 2 at the most.
2) New Torsion Keys. Cost about $200. Nets 2-2.5 inches.
3) Body Lift. About $350. Nets 3".
4) Suspension Lift. Cost $1200 and up. Nets 4" or more.
You have an IFS truck. As such I'd not go more than 4-6" and keep the tire size at no more than 35". Although people do go larger, you are asking for things to break in an IFS front end with tires larger than 35". Stock, you can fit 33's and you could clear 35's with as little as a torsion crank, but may scrub off road. The level kit (new keys) would be a good, inexpensive choice for a mild lift that would clear the 35's nicely.
Mickey Thompson ATZ's or Dick Cepek FCII's would be a good choice of tire in either size for a A/T tirewith a balance of good on pavement characteristics and off road capabilities.
Thanks for the info! Do the torsion keys do anything different than cranking the torsion bars? Is it the same concept? I saw the Mikey T's...those look nice, anywhere I can get those for a good price?
ORIGINAL: HansonHVAC
^^^^Couldnt have said it better myself....
^^^^Couldnt have said it better myself....
Next post I respond to, I'm gonna give the exact opposite of my true opinion, just so you can disagree for a change...

Where the hell is Pappy, I'm ready for some controversy around here.
Oh and BTW, Woodsy, to answer your question, the T-bar crank can tend to roughen the ride a good bit, especially if you take it too far, from what I understand from those who did the key level, it doesn't stiffen up the ride as much. Although I'm strictly going by the number of posts I've read on the subject. I have a suspension lift and love it, especially off road. Of course I spent close to $2000 for it.
Either way you go, make sure you have an alignment done afterwards.
Coming from a guy who just did the torsion keys. Yes its similar to cranking the screws except the new keys are shaped differently to allow more crank. If you buy the right brand (I chose Readylift) the keys will be forged and grab the torsion bars on the flats as opposed to the corners like stock and some other kits. Readylift claims that their keys are much stronger that stock. Which is important due to the extra twisting force on the keys and bars. As far as ride goes there should be no difference compared to just cranking the screws because you are in effect putting the same increase in force to the torsion bars to lift the front end. I can attest to a noticeably stiffer front end after installing the kit. Although I'm not saying thats a bad thing. I will also need to buy new shocks because when going over medium to large bumps I can feel them topping out. The Truxx Kit comes with shock relocation brackets but they looked kinda flimsy so I went elsewhere. The readylift kit comes with a bracket for use during the install to keep the ball joint press (GM Type) from slipping. The install was simple and took less an hour including clean up. Although compressing the torsion bars was scary (all friends went running for cover). Do yourself a favor and get an impact gun. Your arms will thank you later.
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[quote]ORIGINAL: HammerZ71
I'm getting tired of you and I agreeing all the time, all this "I couldn't have said it better" and "+1" crap is BORING!!!
Next post I respond to, I'm gonna give the exact opposite of my true opinion, just so you can disagree for a change...
Where the hell is Pappy, I'm ready for some controversy around here.
Hammer, I couldn't agree more!![8D][8D] Sorry, couldn't resist.
One tip if you crank your own, jack it up first, it's so much easier to turn.
I'm getting tired of you and I agreeing all the time, all this "I couldn't have said it better" and "+1" crap is BORING!!!
Next post I respond to, I'm gonna give the exact opposite of my true opinion, just so you can disagree for a change...

Where the hell is Pappy, I'm ready for some controversy around here.
Hammer, I couldn't agree more!![8D][8D] Sorry, couldn't resist.
One tip if you crank your own, jack it up first, it's so much easier to turn.
you do not want to get a body lift for your truck. yes its cheaper but why would you want to lift the body off the frame? yeah for bigger tires but just go with a suspension lift... you should prolly go with 33's but hell id buy 35's if i had the extra money



