synthetic.
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Champion
Joined: Jan 2008
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RE: synthetic.
well im not even gonna put it in this time....if i was going to id have it in for like a week before i did my oil change which is what ill be doing next time. i think im gonna do it next time i change my oil.....6000 miles later.
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Champion
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,899
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RE: synthetic.
pcv valvle....have no fu*king idea bro. and the throttle body gets done every few months....i think the last time was a month ago...but pcv valve..not the slightest clue. i havent done it yet and im sure the previous owner hasnt done it in a while.....mabe he did...he was good about up keep
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7
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From: Hazleton Pa.
RE: synthetic.
DON't do it! I decided in my infinite wisdom to change over to synthetic oil in my last vehicle. There was about 30000 on the clock and the engine was perfect. About a week after the oil change and running synthetic in what had been a mineral oil engine, I noticed oil smoke at start up, about 15 seconds after the engine was running. 5000 miles later and the car looked like a chemical warfare weapons system when you started it up. Serious mistake to go to synthetic from mineral oil for me. The containers said that it was compatible with all oil seals . Now I know why they chose to put that tidbit on the bottles, to reel in all the suckers who might have a question about the seals .
The motor didn't begin leaking anywhere but the smoke at start up was unbelievable. I finally traded it in for a real vehicle, a 05 2500 QC.
The motor didn't begin leaking anywhere but the smoke at start up was unbelievable. I finally traded it in for a real vehicle, a 05 2500 QC.
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,393
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From:
RE: synthetic.
just found this stuff, may give it a try next oil change
Why Clean Your Engine? Chances are, when your engine was new it delivered the power and fuel efficiency it was designed for. But now, as your engine accumulates miles, things are happening that are adversely affecting its performance. Slowly but surely, your engine is gathering harmful deposits that will eventually cost you money. Even though you may follow a routine service schedule, your driving conditions may be far from routine. Stop and go driving, prolonged periods of idling, short trips that don't allow your engine time to warm up, towing a trailer, the ingestion of airborne dirt, fuel dilution, water condensation, and oxidized oil will eventually cause the formation of a thick, gummy deposit known as sludge. Settling throughout the engine, sludge will clog oil passages, restricting the flow of oil to vital engine parts, especially in the upper valve train areas.
Why Clean Your Engine? Chances are, when your engine was new it delivered the power and fuel efficiency it was designed for. But now, as your engine accumulates miles, things are happening that are adversely affecting its performance. Slowly but surely, your engine is gathering harmful deposits that will eventually cost you money. Even though you may follow a routine service schedule, your driving conditions may be far from routine. Stop and go driving, prolonged periods of idling, short trips that don't allow your engine time to warm up, towing a trailer, the ingestion of airborne dirt, fuel dilution, water condensation, and oxidized oil will eventually cause the formation of a thick, gummy deposit known as sludge. Settling throughout the engine, sludge will clog oil passages, restricting the flow of oil to vital engine parts, especially in the upper valve train areas.
Don't put clean oil in a dirty engine!
When an engine gets dirty, even regular oil changes can't help restore its operating efficiency. The detergen/dispersants in most conventional engine oils can't handle the abnormal amounts of contamination found in a "dirty" engine. The new oil becomes dirty long before it should, losing much of its ability to lubricate and protect your engine and actually accelerating the formation of more sludge and varnish.
In this age of longer recommended drain intervals, it is especially important to have a clean engine before changing oil. Using AMSOIL Fast Acting Engine Flush when you change oil is an excellent way to guarantee your engine stays clean. It has special solvents and cleaning agents that act fast but gently to remove harmful deposits that can cost you money in excessive fuel consumption and mechanical repairs.
AMSOIL Engine Flush is especially recommended for use before changing to AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, assuring that these super premium long life oils provide the maximum protection and service life they are designed to deliver.
When an engine gets dirty, even regular oil changes can't help restore its operating efficiency. The detergen/dispersants in most conventional engine oils can't handle the abnormal amounts of contamination found in a "dirty" engine. The new oil becomes dirty long before it should, losing much of its ability to lubricate and protect your engine and actually accelerating the formation of more sludge and varnish.
In this age of longer recommended drain intervals, it is especially important to have a clean engine before changing oil. Using AMSOIL Fast Acting Engine Flush when you change oil is an excellent way to guarantee your engine stays clean. It has special solvents and cleaning agents that act fast but gently to remove harmful deposits that can cost you money in excessive fuel consumption and mechanical repairs.
AMSOIL Engine Flush is especially recommended for use before changing to AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, assuring that these super premium long life oils provide the maximum protection and service life they are designed to deliver.
The AMSOIL Formula
for Better Engine Performance
1) FLUSH: To quickly clean residual sludge and engine deposits, AMSOIL Engine Flush is recommended: Change the oil filter and add the flush (about 10% of the oil capacity). Do not overfill the crankcase. Idle the engine 15 to 20 minutes, then immediately drain the old oil and flush. *Note: Engine Flush is not recommended for use in transmissions, differentials, air-cooled engines, engines that share a common oil sump with the transmission (motorcycles & ATV's) or engine not equipped with an oil filter. 2) INSTALL: Remove the old oil filter and replace it with an AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter. Ea Oil Filters feature advanced full synthetic nanofiber technology, making them the highest efficiency filters that are available for the auto/light truck market. 3) POUR: Fill the engine's crankcase with the AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil of the viscosity grade recommended by your vehicle's manufacturer. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils are highly resistant to oxidation and provide exceptional detergent/dispersant properties, helping keep your engine free of further sludge and varnish build-up. 4) CHANGE: Replace your present air filter with an AMSOIL Ea Air Filter. AMSOIL Ea Air Filters represent a major breakthrough in filtration technology. The revolutionary nanofiber technology used in AMSOIL Ea Filters captures more dirt, holds more dirt and allows better air flow than conventional air filters. AMSOIL Ea Filters improve engine performance and help engines last longer. A clean engine performs better and lasts longer. Clean your engine and keep it clean with quality AMSOIL products.for Better Engine Performance
Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
From: CA
RE: synthetic.
ORIGINAL: w150
DON't do it! I decided in my infinite wisdom to change over to synthetic oil in my last vehicle. There was about 30000 on the clock and the engine was perfect. About a week after the oil change and running synthetic in what had been a mineral oil engine, I noticed oil smoke at start up, about 15 seconds after the engine was running. 5000 miles later and the car looked like a chemical warfare weapons system when you started it up. Serious mistake to go to synthetic from mineral oil for me. The containers said that it was compatible with all oil seals . Now I know why they chose to put that tidbit on the bottles, to reel in all the suckers who might have a question about the seals .
The motor didn't begin leaking anywhere but the smoke at start up was unbelievable. I finally traded it in for a real vehicle, a 05 2500 QC.
DON't do it! I decided in my infinite wisdom to change over to synthetic oil in my last vehicle. There was about 30000 on the clock and the engine was perfect. About a week after the oil change and running synthetic in what had been a mineral oil engine, I noticed oil smoke at start up, about 15 seconds after the engine was running. 5000 miles later and the car looked like a chemical warfare weapons system when you started it up. Serious mistake to go to synthetic from mineral oil for me. The containers said that it was compatible with all oil seals . Now I know why they chose to put that tidbit on the bottles, to reel in all the suckers who might have a question about the seals .
The motor didn't begin leaking anywhere but the smoke at start up was unbelievable. I finally traded it in for a real vehicle, a 05 2500 QC.
