I'm pondering switching over to a synthetic motor oil (as well as all my fluids, but that's another post). I've only got 3000 miles on it so far, and I'm wondering just how long I should let the engine break in on regular petroleum based oil before I make the switch. I know that sometimes switching too early can result on rings not mating with the cylinder bore correctly (or at all).

While I was at the auto parts store yesterday, I looked over the choices for full synthetics.

Royal Purple 5W-20 and 5W-30
Amsoil 5W-20 and 5W-30
and a full range of Mobil 1 products.

What caught my eye was Mobil 1 0W-20. It says that it's good for any engine citing the need for 0W-20 or 5W-20 weight oil. Has anyone here had any experience with running 0W-20 oil in a 4.7L? In ANY vehicle?

 

Check your manual. I'd bet it calls for either 5w-30 or 10w-30 depending on how hot (or cold) the weather is. Twenty-weight is probably too thin. My 300C requires 5w-20 for the MDS, but the 4.7L doesn't have that. My '03 Ram specifies either 5w- or 10w-30 depending on anticipated temps. It never really gets cold enough here in N. Florida to need the 5w, but I use it anyway. The next change will be to 10w.

 

Mike said it. I use 5w-30 on my 4.7 its got 20k 20 is too thin for a truck

 

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ics/Myths.aspx

These guys say you can switch to synthetic whenever you want and that a lot of vehicles come with synthetic in the engine right from the factory. So it should be fine to switch yours to synthetic at any time.

The owners manual recommends 5W-20 unless you have a hemi AND your vehicle normally has a GCWR or 14,000 pounds or more, then it recommends 5W-30.

I always use 5W-30 in my stuff, just a habit/prefereance that I have had over the years. If you don't tow stuff with your truck you should be fine with using 0W-20. Personally, I don't see a real benefit of using 0W-20 over 5W-30, but you should be fine using it if thats your preferance.

 

Might want to re-read that. I think you'll find the manual says 5W-20 IF you have the Hemi and MDS. MDS is not happy with 30 weight oil. GCWR of 14,000# is probably a 2500 or more, and they don't put MDS in those.

 

no gcwr is combined weight meaning weight of entire trailer. So 14k is on track.
Mike yer thinking bout gvwr which is veh+payload+downward force on receiver hitch.
You are right bout him mixing up the hemi wants.

Boiler put in amsoil 5 30, I buy the stuff thats rated for 25k miles I get it for about 9 bucks a quart. Order it va4meds here. Its cheaper by the gallon. Will prolly do that next time.

 

I looked again and you are absolutely correct. "The point" was that he has a 4.7, which does not have MDS, and the manual recommends 5W-20 for that engine. Since he has a 1500 with a 4.7 it is probobly safe to assume that he doesn't tow more than 14,000 pounds so 0W-20 or 5W-20 would not be "too thin".

 

Not to argue or step on your toes........but to my understanding

GCWR is combined weight rating.......load on the truck, load on trailer, passangers. gas, cd's, cup of coffee....everything all together.

GVWR is how much weight the truck all by itself, with no trailer attached, is "capable or rated" to haul.

 

I believe the towing limit on the 4.7L is around 6,200#, not 14,000. Yep, GCWR is all of it. GVWR is the truck only plus whatever is in it. My '03 has a payload of around 1,200#. It's curb weight is around 5,300 or so, making the GVWR in the 6,500# range. It's rated at 7,750# towing, so if I was foolish enough to do that, the GCWR would be a hair over 14,000#. Certainly a scary situation, even with trailer brakes. However, the discussion is oil viscosity for the 4.7. Do the '08s really use only 20W?

 

A gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) is the maximum allowable total weight of a road vehicle or trailer that is loaded, including the weight of the vehicle itself plus fuel, passengers, cargo, and trailer tongue weight.


couldnt find anything on GCWR but its what i said it was, its the combination including the entire weight of the trailer.