maybe he meant 2.60 horsepower

 

I don't know my self BUT I like to see how they did that I seen engine test cells before where they hook the motor to a water Brake to test at the crank H/P, I seen putting the drive tires on a roller system and test at drive wheel H/P on that type of Brake H/p testing.

There could be a new way to test engine Brake H/P with out removing the motor and putting the motor on a test cell to check it out I know they are using a timming light and counting the strob lights how many times it flashes during the test, Yea thats it.

To get a true H/P rating they normaly hook to a Crank type tester to have a true reading.

Wheel H/P changes thing due gearing Tires Size Ect.

 

Even 260 at the crank would be a 23% gain, which is alot more than an exhaust and intake could ever do. Thats +50 HP. I've heard rules-of-thumb for driveline losses usually in the 40-60 HP range, obviously highly dependent on setup. 260 at the wheels is pretty respectable for a Hemi...

And Marv...spelling and puncutation, bro. [:'(]

 

Yea Yea I know My spelling and puncutation is not the best Thats why I work for our Goverment Ha Ha.

 

puncutation...

^^ that's f-in' awesome...lol

 

haha well, it may have been the hp at the crank, but I think the headers helped the truck a bit...

 

maybe he ment 160 at the wheels

 

online it says out trucks spit out 215 hp and 235 lbs of torque...and brake horsepower it 15% more than rwhp...so calculate that...i would guess around 235-240 on the low side..

 

Haha I wish I could say that was intentional...guess I should shut up now.

punctuation

 

But anyway, the 3.7 is 215 / 235 at the crank.

If you are getting 260 at the wheels you either need to get your money back from the dyno shop, check to see how many cylinders you really have, or write down everything you've installed on the truck and start selling it as the "Best Dodge 3.7 Power Kit Ever Ever Ever"