PACESETTER LT HEADERS....
ORIGINAL: HammerZ71
The only trick on the install is dealing with the cats. If you cut them out and live with the CEL or do the non-fouler trick it'd be a bit easier, but it's also not a big deal to move them back the 18" or so you need to. If you can weld and have a place to get a few pieces of pipe, then you'd have no problem.
The only trick on the install is dealing with the cats. If you cut them out and live with the CEL or do the non-fouler trick it'd be a bit easier, but it's also not a big deal to move them back the 18" or so you need to. If you can weld and have a place to get a few pieces of pipe, then you'd have no problem.
wait, what?! you have LTs and still have the cats on there? I like it. and I also wish i had a welder. I can weld just fine, just don't have a welder. Kinda like a rebel without a cause. Let me know if you're ever coming to the chicago area. I'll give you a $100 for a set of the custom pipes you made to fit those in with the cats.
Hell, I didn't "make" anything, just took some pipe and cut and welded the couple of pieces I needed to fit everything back together. It's nothing fancy, basically used two short pieces to clamp to the collector from the headers and weld the other side back to the cats.
Since I took the manifold off and cut just after the cats, I had the pipe between the manifold & cats to basically use for my pieces.
The setup is basically unaltered, except the section between the cats and the "Y" into the muffler is squeezed the 18" I had to move the cats backward because of the length of the headers.
Go get you a little 110v Mig welder from Lowe's or Northern Tool, they are fantastic. I grew up stick & gas (acetelyne) welding, but Mig is almost like cheating. I never touch my stick welder anymore. You could practice on scrap with a Mig and have yourself welding good enough to fix things around the house or do an exhaust within4-6 hours of practicing with it.
Oh hell, nevermind, I missed the part where you said youknow how to weld, so just go get a little mig welder and weld!!!
I got a lot of running to do tomorrow, but Sunday I'll climb under the truck and take a pic if you want reference...
Since I took the manifold off and cut just after the cats, I had the pipe between the manifold & cats to basically use for my pieces.
The setup is basically unaltered, except the section between the cats and the "Y" into the muffler is squeezed the 18" I had to move the cats backward because of the length of the headers.
Go get you a little 110v Mig welder from Lowe's or Northern Tool, they are fantastic. I grew up stick & gas (acetelyne) welding, but Mig is almost like cheating. I never touch my stick welder anymore. You could practice on scrap with a Mig and have yourself welding good enough to fix things around the house or do an exhaust within4-6 hours of practicing with it.
Oh hell, nevermind, I missed the part where you said youknow how to weld, so just go get a little mig welder and weld!!!
I got a lot of running to do tomorrow, but Sunday I'll climb under the truck and take a pic if you want reference...
i wouldn't mind the pic myself. won't be getting this mod done any time soon but would still like to see it for future knowledge. Don't rush on the pics for my account though...next time ur under there for something else.
enjoy your errands
enjoy your errands
ORIGINAL: HammerZ71
Scott, if you are thinking about the 6.1 cam for your truck, it's not really a good cam for a QC 4x4.
It is a very good cam for what it's grind is designed for, which is moderate HP gains in the mid rpm range and very good gains in the upper rpm range. To accomplish this, it gives up a good bit of low end, especially low end torque. It's a pretty good mod for a QC 4x2 that doesn't tow much and a great mod for a SC 4x2. It's the low end torque that you really want to see in a 4x4, especially one with over-size tires.
It's a shame too, because that cam requires nothing else (the 6.1 beefier springs are not a bad idea, but not required). I've read a lot of posts from some 4x4 owners who put them in and really felt the low end torque loss and took them right out, unwilling totrade less low end torque than stock for the mid/upper HP gains. As a matter of fact you can usually find the used cams on ebay for a good deal.
A better fit for you would be a Comp 260, Crane 216 or the KRC 210, cams ground more for better low end "grunt" than racing at the strip. But with these you'd want springs, retainers, rods and maybe even a damper which would bring the price up quite a bit.
It just looked to me like you were showing interest in the 6.1 cam and I figured I'd put my 2 cents in. Take it for what it's worth...
Scott, if you are thinking about the 6.1 cam for your truck, it's not really a good cam for a QC 4x4.
It is a very good cam for what it's grind is designed for, which is moderate HP gains in the mid rpm range and very good gains in the upper rpm range. To accomplish this, it gives up a good bit of low end, especially low end torque. It's a pretty good mod for a QC 4x2 that doesn't tow much and a great mod for a SC 4x2. It's the low end torque that you really want to see in a 4x4, especially one with over-size tires.
It's a shame too, because that cam requires nothing else (the 6.1 beefier springs are not a bad idea, but not required). I've read a lot of posts from some 4x4 owners who put them in and really felt the low end torque loss and took them right out, unwilling totrade less low end torque than stock for the mid/upper HP gains. As a matter of fact you can usually find the used cams on ebay for a good deal.
A better fit for you would be a Comp 260, Crane 216 or the KRC 210, cams ground more for better low end "grunt" than racing at the strip. But with these you'd want springs, retainers, rods and maybe even a damper which would bring the price up quite a bit.
It just looked to me like you were showing interest in the 6.1 cam and I figured I'd put my 2 cents in. Take it for what it's worth...
speaking of re-gearing, I'm completely ignorant in this area but, changing the gears would make a big difference I take it? I changed the gears on my 98 trans am and it cuts a little off my 1/4 mile time. What gains do you get when you change the gears in a ram...up to say 4.56? More power? Better MPG?
and if you have a 4x4, does that mean you'd have to change gearing in the front diff as well since all 4 tires have to turn at the same ratio?
and if you have a 4x4, does that mean you'd have to change gearing in the front diff as well since all 4 tires have to turn at the same ratio?
ORIGINAL: HammerZ71
I got a lot of running to do tomorrow, but Sunday I'll climb under the truck and take a pic if you want reference...
I got a lot of running to do tomorrow, but Sunday I'll climb under the truck and take a pic if you want reference...
ORIGINAL: Scott06HEMI
speaking of re-gearing, I'm completely ignorant in this area but, changing the gears would make a big difference I take it? I changed the gears on my 98 trans am and it cuts a little off my 1/4 mile time. What gains do you get when you change the gears in a ram...up to say 4.56? More power? Better MPG?
speaking of re-gearing, I'm completely ignorant in this area but, changing the gears would make a big difference I take it? I changed the gears on my 98 trans am and it cuts a little off my 1/4 mile time. What gains do you get when you change the gears in a ram...up to say 4.56? More power? Better MPG?
ORIGINAL: Scott06HEMI
and if you have a 4x4, does that mean you'd have to change gearing in the front diff as well since all 4 tires have to turn at the same ratio?
and if you have a 4x4, does that mean you'd have to change gearing in the front diff as well since all 4 tires have to turn at the same ratio?



