KN&N Filter CAI Vs Drop in KN&N , I just want to know what is the difference in HP gain if any and MPG gains? I get 15 MPG sock now and that is keeping the RPM under 3,000. Any comment is appreciated, thaks in advance.

 

I would assume you would probably pick up 1-2 MPG with the CAI, drop in might get you maybe 1.... Not sure about the horse power gains... CAI are always better than stock air boxes...

 

Yea, a quality aftermarket is good, but anything that removes the restrictive resonator just in front of the throttle body is better.
But don't look for any night/day differences from even the CAI. You won't get any real gains (performance or mpg) with just the CAI. Don't get me wrong, it's a good mod, it's just is one of those that performs better and better with other mods. To see any real gains from a CAI you need to think about a free flowing exhaust and tuner. Headers also work very well in concert with a CAI...

 

There will be no MPG gain if a good test is done,
and if you put 5,000 miles on both
a new good quality WIX paper filter and the KN drop in
the paper filter will have LESS restriction
than the now-clogged KN drop in



Volunteers like you have pooled their money and tested to prove this:

http://home.stny.rr.com/jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm

My own test
which you can easily do yourself
using the stop watch in your cell phone
--------------
>Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 15:12:52 -0500
>Subject: KN/Mopar paper/no air filter/ Quarter mile tests
>
>I was curious as to whether the KN air filter element in
the factory Ram
>air filter housing I have been using for 3 years was truly
less
>restrictive than the paper filter elements.

>Back on RTML there was a
>discussion about whether re-useable filters really filtered
the finest
>dust particles as well as paper ones do.
>
>One RTML reader said his construction company tested
re-useable filters
>and did spectrograhic oil analyis to test for dirt passing
through the
>filters. When the silica levels in the oil went up - the
construction
>company went back to paper filters - and the silica levels
in the oil went
>back down. I can't vouch for this alleged test - but the
story worried
>me.
>
>I had the afternoon free and I decided to test the
acceleration question
>myself. I went to the local Dodge dealer (the same one who
sold me a KN
>element) and bought a $14 Mopar air filter. It is white
paper, has many
>more pleats than the KN, and bears part number 53004383.
Below the part
>number is printed "Made in Canada" and 38682 and then 05/99
is stamped in
>different ink. The rubber gasket on this paper filter seems
to be slightly
>thicker and it takes a little more effort to clamp down the
top cover on
>it than the KN.
>
>I went to my home-made quarter mile on Highway 64 over the
Jordan Lake
>causeway. Remember this may be a little more than a true
measured >quartermile, is 0.4% grade uphill, and I am timing
with a stopwatch. I do a soft >start with my foot off the
pedal. The 235/85R16 tires with 65 psi never broke
>loose or smoked in these tests. Gasoline was 87 octane.
>
>Yesterday (a humid 95F day) With KN element, 1/2 tank of
gas I ran:
>18.75
>18.72
>
>This afternoon ( a humid 95F day) with KN, 3/16 tank of gas
I ran:
>18.81
>18.75
>Average= 18.78
>
>Both yesterday & today with the KN there was mild pinging
when rpms went
>+3750, and then a short burst of rapid 'clacks' when the
auto trans made
>its shifts at 4900 rpm. I have found from past driving that
the pinging
>goes away if I use above 90 octane.
>
>Both yesterday and today there was a KN element in the air
filter housing
>that had been cleaned approximately 3000 miles ago. When I
took it out
>today it showed no signs of visible dirt and was dark red
in color. I am
>using the stock factory air filter housing, with the
plastic cold air tube
>going over to the passenger fender wall.
>
>With the 53004383 Mopar paper filter, 3/16 tank of gas I
ran:
>
>18.75
>18.85
>Average= 18.80
>
>I then took the Mopar filter out and re-assembled the air
filter housing
>with no air filter inside. Everything else was the same -
the plastic
>cold air tube was still pulling air from the fender and the
top of the
>housing was clamped on.
>
>With NO FILTER element, 3/16 tank of gas I ran:
>18.72
>18.68
>Average= 18.70
>
>During these two runs without any air filter it seemed to
me that the
>pinging above 3750 rpm was still mild, but a little louder
and more
>frequent. The noise of the engine seemed slightly louder
without an air
>filter.
>
>I put the Mopar paper filter in and drove the truck home.
I could not
>feel any difference versus the KN filter.

 

I like the K&N drop in. It works well.

 

i had the k&n drop in and changed it to the k&n cai system and seen no difference in mpg or hp. the only difference that i could tell was all the air sucking noise. i feel it was a waste of my money.

 

Funny, but I just had a thought. It seems to me that if all test factors were a constant and a K&N was getting clogged with contaminants after a period of time and a paper filter was not, where did the contaminants go if they are not in the filter?
Makes you wanna just say hmmmmmm. And maybe look to see how dirty the engine oil may be...
Now, I'll admit, I'm just a dumb 'ole, 4x4 liftin', red neck, off-roadin', shade tree type machanic. By no means do I do this for a living, nor consider myself an expert, but I always thought it was the job of the air filter to stop and trap airborne contaminants...

 

+1
i'm keeping my amsoil. seemingly the only filter in the test that starts off as a good filter (for filtration purposes) rather than plugging into one.

 

When living in south Ga., where the roads are 70% dirt roads and I was off-road a lot more often than I get a chance to be now, I always thought my oil was really dirty at change time. That's why I always did changes at 3k, even though I used to used Mobil 1 all the time (I've changed to Royal Purple now).
This was stock paper filters. When I added a K&N drop-in, I found the old oil was a lot better. When I went to a K&N CAI, it was as dirty as with the paper, if not worse (I guess that's the price for better air flow).
I added a pre-filter, now I know it does offer a bit of restriction (but only about 5% by the spec sheet) but I found my oil to be cleaner at change time than any of the other situations. I take it off and clean it with a dustbuster about every other month or so, when I'm cleaning/vacuuming the truck's interior.
A side benefit is that the pre-filter is treated with silicone, which also does not allow water to reach the filter. Not that I cross water that deep (that's what the ATV is for) or have a SRT type hood.

 

I'm looking to get a pre filter for my round element K&N filter, and I was wondering if you could recommend a seller for a Drycharger or Outerwear? I have the part # of the filter, and the part # of the outerwear I need for it, but cannot seem to locate it