Solving the LSD problem
#1
Solving the LSD problem
I've been following everything I can about the problem with C clips in the LSD differentials, and came across a someone's post mentioning where their dealer offered a PM for the clip....for a couple of hundred bucks they would remove it. I think I found something saying the clip was only there for manufacturing convenience. Well, went to the dealer yesterday to inquire about the possibility of removing the clip, and was treated like one of the 3 stooges. First, there is no problem with the clip, second, removing anything would cause the diff to completely fall apart, and on and on. So, here's my question...I'm wondering what the cost of a tru track diff will run: not the diff itself (I found those on the 'net) but the labor. I'm looking for an order of magnitude number since hourly rates vary a lot from place to place. Anybody?
#2
removing the clip will not cause the diff to "fall apart". The carrier isn't the same as an open carrier. An open carrier would have some driveablility issues if you were to remove the c-clips as the axles tend to "walk" a little during cornering. The c-clips do hold them inplace, however...so do the calipers. Unless the caliper bracker were to completely break, those axles won't go anywhere anytime soon.
As for labor...Everyone is different and charges different. Book labor is probably not going to be charged but rather the actual labor is because it's an aftermarket part and your changing things. It's dumb I knoq, but they always work in favor of their wallets not yours. That's how they stay in business. I would reccomend a garage and not the dealership because you'll pay less and get someone with more gear install knowledge! If something were to happen a few thousand miles down the road, your gonna be SOL regardless.
If you have 2wd def change your gears while your in there. Changing gears later on would require the same amount of labor all over again. 4wd, you'll have to penny up for the matching set for the front. Most places will make you coin up for roughly 4-5hours to do the basic carrier swap no gears included. I would add another 2hours for gears. Remember both axles have to come off to get the carrier out. All the raer brake components must be removed to be able to slide to axles out. Your looking at about $350-$400 plus fluids and parts for the basic carrier install is my best guess and $5-600 with gears. Ofcourse that's strictly the labor charge.
I would buy everything the shop would need including fluid of choice. No special additives are needed with the Detroit TrueTrac differential. I would buy a complete install kit if you can. It has the axle bearings/seals, carrier bearings, pinion bearings and crush collar. Make sure you get a shim kit as well witha gear install. Last thing I would want is a shim that's just floating around the shop to end up in my rear diff...lol
As for labor...Everyone is different and charges different. Book labor is probably not going to be charged but rather the actual labor is because it's an aftermarket part and your changing things. It's dumb I knoq, but they always work in favor of their wallets not yours. That's how they stay in business. I would reccomend a garage and not the dealership because you'll pay less and get someone with more gear install knowledge! If something were to happen a few thousand miles down the road, your gonna be SOL regardless.
If you have 2wd def change your gears while your in there. Changing gears later on would require the same amount of labor all over again. 4wd, you'll have to penny up for the matching set for the front. Most places will make you coin up for roughly 4-5hours to do the basic carrier swap no gears included. I would add another 2hours for gears. Remember both axles have to come off to get the carrier out. All the raer brake components must be removed to be able to slide to axles out. Your looking at about $350-$400 plus fluids and parts for the basic carrier install is my best guess and $5-600 with gears. Ofcourse that's strictly the labor charge.
I would buy everything the shop would need including fluid of choice. No special additives are needed with the Detroit TrueTrac differential. I would buy a complete install kit if you can. It has the axle bearings/seals, carrier bearings, pinion bearings and crush collar. Make sure you get a shim kit as well witha gear install. Last thing I would want is a shim that's just floating around the shop to end up in my rear diff...lol
#3
I believe that there is a communication problem here?
What Wapakfred is incorrectly calling C Clips, are actually the LSD "retaining clips".
That is their correct name.
dirtydog is mentioning a problem in his answer, that directly involves the C Clips.
But this refers to the actual clips that keep the axle in place.
C-clip axles have a little clip on the inside that stops the shaft from sliding out. Our Dodges have this on the 9.25 rears. The clip snaps on the splined end inside of the differential so that the differential bears the outward pressure of the axle shaft rather than the outside bearing.
The big disadvantage of these axles is that if the shaft or C-clip breaks the shaft will come right out. Axles that do not have the C-clip, are much more likely to be drivable if the shaft breaks. If the shaft breaks between the differential and bearing on a non-C-clip axle, there is a good chance the wheel will not fall off unless the backing plate breaks loose or the bearing slides off the axle shaft.
So, there is a "name calling" problem here, with I believe two forum members discussing different things????
Now Aas for our "retaining clips" in the LSD which a lot of people make no mistake in that, have problems with and which that stealership should be ashamed of dissmissing
.
These are ONLY for keeping the clutches in place.
I myself ran without the 4 of them for over 20000+ miles.
I figured that due to the little "W" on these clips already snapping off and that is what typically happens, lying in the bottom of the pumpkin and with one of these clips already cutting into my carrier which is the other MAJOR problem with this design, the best course of action for me was to pull them out. I did this as cutting into my carrier would make it eventually beyond repair and living in the UK, where would I get another axle and at what price???
However you can ONLY remove the clips, if the little "W" part of the clip is snapped off/missing.
There just is not enough room to pull these little buggers out in the LSD, without this damage.
That's what I did and as I say, my truck ran for over 20000+ miles.
The only thing my DTT installer and I found was, that the clutch pack clip pockets were starting to wear and the tabs on the clutches which sit in these pockets, were also wearing and becoming very sharp.
I think a little material was wearing away as the clutches moved in the pockets when going from forward to reverse. As you can imagine, small metal shaving/bits in a differential packed full of bearings and seals.............well it's not hard to imagine what the outcome would be.
Anyway, If you have a 9.25" with a stock LSD.
Get it out of there ASAP, as it's not a case of "if" these suckers blow.................rather "when".
Replace it with a Detroit TruTrac or an Aurburn unit. Also get a superior/master install kit as dirtydog mentioned and flush the axle completely and refit all new stuff.
That way, you will have a bullet proof diff.
Hope this helps guys?
Al.
What Wapakfred is incorrectly calling C Clips, are actually the LSD "retaining clips".
That is their correct name.
dirtydog is mentioning a problem in his answer, that directly involves the C Clips.
But this refers to the actual clips that keep the axle in place.
C-clip axles have a little clip on the inside that stops the shaft from sliding out. Our Dodges have this on the 9.25 rears. The clip snaps on the splined end inside of the differential so that the differential bears the outward pressure of the axle shaft rather than the outside bearing.
The big disadvantage of these axles is that if the shaft or C-clip breaks the shaft will come right out. Axles that do not have the C-clip, are much more likely to be drivable if the shaft breaks. If the shaft breaks between the differential and bearing on a non-C-clip axle, there is a good chance the wheel will not fall off unless the backing plate breaks loose or the bearing slides off the axle shaft.
So, there is a "name calling" problem here, with I believe two forum members discussing different things????
Now Aas for our "retaining clips" in the LSD which a lot of people make no mistake in that, have problems with and which that stealership should be ashamed of dissmissing
.
These are ONLY for keeping the clutches in place.
I myself ran without the 4 of them for over 20000+ miles.
I figured that due to the little "W" on these clips already snapping off and that is what typically happens, lying in the bottom of the pumpkin and with one of these clips already cutting into my carrier which is the other MAJOR problem with this design, the best course of action for me was to pull them out. I did this as cutting into my carrier would make it eventually beyond repair and living in the UK, where would I get another axle and at what price???
However you can ONLY remove the clips, if the little "W" part of the clip is snapped off/missing.
There just is not enough room to pull these little buggers out in the LSD, without this damage.
That's what I did and as I say, my truck ran for over 20000+ miles.
The only thing my DTT installer and I found was, that the clutch pack clip pockets were starting to wear and the tabs on the clutches which sit in these pockets, were also wearing and becoming very sharp.
I think a little material was wearing away as the clutches moved in the pockets when going from forward to reverse. As you can imagine, small metal shaving/bits in a differential packed full of bearings and seals.............well it's not hard to imagine what the outcome would be.
Anyway, If you have a 9.25" with a stock LSD.
Get it out of there ASAP, as it's not a case of "if" these suckers blow.................rather "when".
Replace it with a Detroit TruTrac or an Aurburn unit. Also get a superior/master install kit as dirtydog mentioned and flush the axle completely and refit all new stuff.
That way, you will have a bullet proof diff.
Hope this helps guys?
Al.
#4
So maybe that's why the dealer looked at me like I was a moron....that does help, and maybe I'll go back and re-ask the question with the correct terminology. But I am still interested in changing to a tru trac....seems to be too many advantages.
#5
#6
#7
It was a lot of the 03-05's that had lots of the retaining clip problems osufans.
Don't know if this has something to do with age?
Obviously, we don't have the stats about what years this affects like Dodge would have.
I have read on another forum that that's the years that are being affected.
But, looking at the design of the clips, if they haven't done a TSB or upgrade to them and as far as I know Dodge haven't, this will always be a problem as the clips are weak and the design poor!
As for your 2500 draco8494. I would asume your correct but I don't know enough about a 2500 so won't coment.
Al.
Don't know if this has something to do with age?
Obviously, we don't have the stats about what years this affects like Dodge would have.
I have read on another forum that that's the years that are being affected.
But, looking at the design of the clips, if they haven't done a TSB or upgrade to them and as far as I know Dodge haven't, this will always be a problem as the clips are weak and the design poor!
As for your 2500 draco8494. I would asume your correct but I don't know enough about a 2500 so won't coment.
Al.
Last edited by abarmby; 12-12-2008 at 01:57 AM. Reason: Spelling.