here's some pics of a 2" lift with 22s inside 35s. this isnt my truck, but mine will look just like this in a few weeks but with slightly wider wheels (i think these are 9.5 or 10s from the looks of them). im not sure what type of lift he used either (suspension or body) since it didnt say in his descriptions, and i cant tell by looking because im new to lifts myself. but the pics should give you an idea of what you're considering. there's some pretty inexpensive 2" lift kits available on ebay. i was looking there earlier today. there's one kit in particular that is just 2" polyurethane spacers for the front and additional leaf springs for the rear. kit was going for $109 (BIN price) with free shipping inside the US. i think i read somewhere that you'll also need longer shocks when lifting too, but not sure if that applies to a mild 2" lift or not. im still researching all this stuff before i dive into it

 

Here is a picture with a 3" body lift, 3" torsion keys, 3" skyjacker add-a-leaf and 37X13.5 tires.

 

Dude, why would you take it to a shop??? Its a body lift, they are easy to install and i would imagine just as easy to remove (never had to remove one ). All you need is a floor jack and some 4x4 blocks to jack up the cab and box one side at a time...easy stuff IMO.

 

It may not be, depends. I used to always weld the radiator relocation brackets instead of drill and bolt. It's common for shops to do it too, he might need to have them cut off and re-welded...

 

Welding the rad brackets?? Uhhhhg... sounds ugly haha. Please dont tell me they do that with the bumpers to...

 

SO much misinformation here. I have done several dodge bodylifts and will be doing another next friday. Take my advice for what you think it's worth

1. You don't need, or even use, a lift. A lift raises the frame when you're trying to raise the body. You need a floor jack and a 2x4.

2. Don't use gap guards. They look like shiz and wheel well liners fit/look way better.

3. NO ONE welds radiator supports on the dodges as the radiator is not touched during a body lift. You will have to extend the shroud, but no welding is involved. The radiator stays bolted up to the stock location. The only welding you will do is a couple of spot welds on some blocks to support the center of the bed. These can be knocked out easily with a hammer and chisel.

4. No way in hell a shop does this in 4 hours unless they have four guys on it who just did a lift the day before. This takes two guys all day.

 

no, they would not weld the bumpers to relocate, and upon checking the installation instructions for a 3rd Gen Ram, Rubberfrog is correct, you would only need to re-drill a hole 1" lower to relocate the shroud. I've not done one since '98 and you used to have "L" brackets, which had to be moved. Docs called for a drill there, but the guy taught me, always welded the "L" brackets, so I always did.
It doesn't appear you'll have to cut anything off...

 

what exactly is the difference between a body lift and a suspension lift? I mean, i know one raises just the body and the other raises the frame & body together, but are there any benefits to one versus the other or is just a matter of personal preference and/or budget?