Trans Temp Gauge
#21
Been having 0748 code since I dropped the pan and changed the filter. Mechanic has narrowed it down to the computer which is backordered from
chrysler Go figure! This will be the most expensive tranny fluid change in history!!!!
Right now he has the relay grounded so the tranny will run out of limp mode.
If your curious check out my "need more info" post
chrysler Go figure! This will be the most expensive tranny fluid change in history!!!!
Right now he has the relay grounded so the tranny will run out of limp mode.
If your curious check out my "need more info" post
#23
#26
Have pictures, i'll give you the short version...was really easy to do.
1 - I had the sending unit manifold installed by the mechanic who has been looking into my CEL/tranny issue. I figured since he had it on the hoist, no sense in me doing this under jack stands. He cut the pressure line to install the manifold. I purchased this item and the gauge through jegs.com
2 - I had the SRT A-Pillar that I ordered through dodgeparts.com
Once the manifold is installed wiring was simple.
First remove the existing A-pillar. Pop the plugs and remove the 2 10mm bolts and remove pillar.
Remove the side panel that is on the side of the dash adjacent to the light switch. While you're at it pop out the panel that holds in the light switch. (see pics)
http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/r...m/IMG_1265.jpg
http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/r...m/IMG_1266.jpg
In these pictures you should be able to see that I used and existing screw to ground the circuit and used the orange wire from the light switch to power the gauge backlighting.
This next picture shows where I routed the sending unit wires (purple and gray) through the firewall using an existing gromet. I used my pocket knife and cut a slit just big enough to push the sending unit connector through and still allow itself to close up again. Plugged wires into the sending unit.
http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/r...m/IMG_1268.jpg
All that is left is to find a wire that is hot with the ingition. I used my 12v test light and my haynes manual to find the tan wire as shown in this picture.
http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/r...m/IMG_1270.jpg
It is best to put a fuse on this line to avoid the accidntal burning up of your new gauge. Auto Meter recommended a 1 amp fuse for my gauge.
Once I was done I tied up the wires and tested everything out. Once I knew everything worked I installed the a-pillar went for a test drive (without my seat belt on).
I really thought it was going to be more difficult but since I didn't install the manifold the process went faster.
Hope the pics help.
I spilled a beer in the making of this post, hope everyone is happy:P
1 - I had the sending unit manifold installed by the mechanic who has been looking into my CEL/tranny issue. I figured since he had it on the hoist, no sense in me doing this under jack stands. He cut the pressure line to install the manifold. I purchased this item and the gauge through jegs.com
2 - I had the SRT A-Pillar that I ordered through dodgeparts.com
Once the manifold is installed wiring was simple.
First remove the existing A-pillar. Pop the plugs and remove the 2 10mm bolts and remove pillar.
Remove the side panel that is on the side of the dash adjacent to the light switch. While you're at it pop out the panel that holds in the light switch. (see pics)
http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/r...m/IMG_1265.jpg
http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/r...m/IMG_1266.jpg
In these pictures you should be able to see that I used and existing screw to ground the circuit and used the orange wire from the light switch to power the gauge backlighting.
This next picture shows where I routed the sending unit wires (purple and gray) through the firewall using an existing gromet. I used my pocket knife and cut a slit just big enough to push the sending unit connector through and still allow itself to close up again. Plugged wires into the sending unit.
http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/r...m/IMG_1268.jpg
All that is left is to find a wire that is hot with the ingition. I used my 12v test light and my haynes manual to find the tan wire as shown in this picture.
http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/r...m/IMG_1270.jpg
It is best to put a fuse on this line to avoid the accidntal burning up of your new gauge. Auto Meter recommended a 1 amp fuse for my gauge.
Once I was done I tied up the wires and tested everything out. Once I knew everything worked I installed the a-pillar went for a test drive (without my seat belt on).
I really thought it was going to be more difficult but since I didn't install the manifold the process went faster.
Hope the pics help.
I spilled a beer in the making of this post, hope everyone is happy:P
Last edited by rbrumm; 04-04-2009 at 12:47 AM.
#27
hey man thanks for the write. that will help alot. im still gonna have to figure out how to tap in for the sending unit. heres the gauge i ordered
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku