Whine in Rear End after Clutch Retainer Clip Replacement
Here are the specs i have just to compare with that you have
also http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-129...ster-tool.html
- Cover Bolt Ft. Lbs. 15-25
- Pinion Brg. Preload In. Lbs 10-20
- Pinion Brg. Preload In. Lbs Used 10-15
- Ring Gear Backlash .005-.008
- Ring Gear Bolt to case Ft. Lbs. 115
- Side Brg. Caps Ft. Lbs. 100
also http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-129...ster-tool.html
I found the problem Boys! I had dropped the driveshaft to replace the pinion seal because it was leaking about 6 mos prior. When the flange came off and I reaplaced the seal, I ran the bolt in too far, and didn't recheck the pre-load on the pinion bearings and crushed the crush washer. It overtightened the pinion bearings and wore out the races. This was the whine all the time. Too tight.
So, all is well. I will say this, trying to crush the crush washer with a torque wrench will never happen. Turst me. Trying to get to the 15-25 inch pounds of resistance is an ordeal. Running the pinion nut to over 300 foot pounds takes time to get the proper rolling resistance of the pinion.
All I can say is buy a HEAVY DUTY IMPACT, be patient, and take your time. You're going to be under there for a while. The crush washer is TOUGH to compress, and it does it very very slowly.
My suggestion, buy two washers. I did. Although Murphy didn't visit that day, he hit me up on something else soon thereafter.
Ping me if you all need anything else. I'm here to help!!
So, all is well. I will say this, trying to crush the crush washer with a torque wrench will never happen. Turst me. Trying to get to the 15-25 inch pounds of resistance is an ordeal. Running the pinion nut to over 300 foot pounds takes time to get the proper rolling resistance of the pinion.
All I can say is buy a HEAVY DUTY IMPACT, be patient, and take your time. You're going to be under there for a while. The crush washer is TOUGH to compress, and it does it very very slowly.
My suggestion, buy two washers. I did. Although Murphy didn't visit that day, he hit me up on something else soon thereafter.
Ping me if you all need anything else. I'm here to help!!
Originally Posted by hemibat;1672403 And don’t let Dodge tell you you have to purchase the entire carrier, the clutch packs and clutch retainers are noted in the system as an internal problem with this rear end, and there [B
are[/B] separate part numbers for each piece. The clutch packs come with new retainers, or the retainers can be purchased separately. The new retainers are beefier than the ones that broke loose. Yeah, a design problem indeed! The new retainers I purchased cost me $7.50 for the set of 4. Mike at Wholesalemopar.com helped me out when my local dealer wouldn’t. Mike, you ROCK! He did the legwork for me and found the note in the system!! The local dealer wanted me to purchase the entire carrier with new spider gears and clutches in it for $834.)
In hindsight, I didn’t have to drop the carrier to get to the clutches, but not knowing where the pieces were coming from initially or what else might be wrong, I gutted and cleaned the pumpkin.
In hindsight, I didn’t have to drop the carrier to get to the clutches, but not knowing where the pieces were coming from initially or what else might be wrong, I gutted and cleaned the pumpkin.
I had to do some digging on the DANA (yes DANA. People complain about this "crappy" rear end and don't know that it's a DANA. It's sad that this small design flaw can destroy a decient rear end...) website to find the part number, but I got them from my local dodge dealer
Thanks!
Last edited by ramjamhemi; Dec 22, 2010 at 02:07 AM.
I did mine last week - you can use 4" and 4.5" bolts/nuts - you compress the clutch packs, remove two spider gears and then remove the nuts/bolts and the clutch packs come out. Really easy actually. The annoying part for me was makin sure I had the right back lash and preload. I'll look for the link that I used. Guy was very complete.








