Shopping List... I have a few Questions
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Joined: Sep 2005
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It says in dodge cowboy's sig that he is the founder of the red truck club.
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Grand Champion
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,041
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From: Gilbert, Arizona
Alright thanks for the heads up dirty,
I am going to go a head and order the LT's and Mopar Gaskets (60k on mine stockers now so better start fresh) and use the stock bolts.
For the Y I am still undecided. The one from pacesetter is pre made ready to go on so cutting the pipe to work with the cat locations should be simple, right?
I am ordering the sway bar. The caltracks would be nice because I can get some pretty hard launches now but I leave a 10ft stretch of rubber sometimes so the extra control would be nice, only problem was they dont have the extra piece I would need to install them on my truck since its stock height. Maybe I can find a good deal on the old style traction bars to hold me over for a while.
The only other thing I am unsure on is if I should get the larger Diff cover from PML. I need to drain the diff soon so I would be taking it off anyways... Or I can keep that cash and put it towards the cam later on. Probably just do that for now...
I am going to go a head and order the LT's and Mopar Gaskets (60k on mine stockers now so better start fresh) and use the stock bolts.
For the Y I am still undecided. The one from pacesetter is pre made ready to go on so cutting the pipe to work with the cat locations should be simple, right?
I am ordering the sway bar. The caltracks would be nice because I can get some pretty hard launches now but I leave a 10ft stretch of rubber sometimes so the extra control would be nice, only problem was they dont have the extra piece I would need to install them on my truck since its stock height. Maybe I can find a good deal on the old style traction bars to hold me over for a while.
The only other thing I am unsure on is if I should get the larger Diff cover from PML. I need to drain the diff soon so I would be taking it off anyways... Or I can keep that cash and put it towards the cam later on. Probably just do that for now...
Moderate User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17,003
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From: Albany, NY
You'd better make sure the sway bar will clear the diff cover before you go spending and installing a $250 part. There may be clearance issue's.
You cannot use factory header hardware as the oem manifolds require a longer thread because of the thicker flanges, so the factory hardware will bottom out before you even begin to tighten the headers. I would just use the hardware that you get from Pacesetter. One thing though, my JBA hardware had locking washers for each bolt. maybe throw some locking washers if the pacesetter just has reg washers or washer/head type bolts.
I would say get the Pacesetter Y which i think Moe's has that is coated inside/out?? The install to fit your cats in will be much easier.
Also, dunno if guys have had issue's with the ceck engine light going off with LT's, but the easiest solution is to plug the bungs they give you and creat your own bungs towards the top of one of the Primary tubes. This may void warranty, so i'd check b4 you go cutting/welding. This brings the o2 sensors closer to the flanges which helps cold starts and cancels out fake or in accurate reading s which are cause from being too low in the header or rather past the collector. Sure this only gets fuel mixture from 1 cylinder and not all 4, but how often do guys have only 1 cylinder running excessively lean or rich? Mainly boosted or specifically N20 guys. Not N/A guys.
What else u got 4 me? huh?.....(interlocks fingers and cracks knuckles with palms facing outwards)....lmao
You cannot use factory header hardware as the oem manifolds require a longer thread because of the thicker flanges, so the factory hardware will bottom out before you even begin to tighten the headers. I would just use the hardware that you get from Pacesetter. One thing though, my JBA hardware had locking washers for each bolt. maybe throw some locking washers if the pacesetter just has reg washers or washer/head type bolts.
I would say get the Pacesetter Y which i think Moe's has that is coated inside/out?? The install to fit your cats in will be much easier.
Also, dunno if guys have had issue's with the ceck engine light going off with LT's, but the easiest solution is to plug the bungs they give you and creat your own bungs towards the top of one of the Primary tubes. This may void warranty, so i'd check b4 you go cutting/welding. This brings the o2 sensors closer to the flanges which helps cold starts and cancels out fake or in accurate reading s which are cause from being too low in the header or rather past the collector. Sure this only gets fuel mixture from 1 cylinder and not all 4, but how often do guys have only 1 cylinder running excessively lean or rich? Mainly boosted or specifically N20 guys. Not N/A guys.
What else u got 4 me? huh?.....(interlocks fingers and cracks knuckles with palms facing outwards)....lmao
3rd gen Ram, Newbies
Joined: May 2008
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From: Chicago
Dodge_Cowboy2004. i believe that is considered trolling? You need mod permission to post anything like that in separate posts just so you know if you decided to sell the headliners "commercially" like that. Just don't want u to get in trouble for some nice work. Those are freakin sweet.
Truckin, from experience with my Mustang and Stage 8 locking header bolts....I will never use them ever again. They are such a PIA to keep the locking ring so you can fit the snap ring over it. This is extremely difficult in hard to fit areas. It took me about 6 hours to bolt my LT headers up on a 32v DOHC cobra motor. Now they were extraodinarily tight, but I had to leave a few out and the rest had to be done with one hand and all by feel with bolt locking ring and retainer in between 2 diff. fingers. Trust me. Very tough.
Now, since i have installed headers on my truck, thre were a few that were tough to get to. i used standard bolts and if you re-tighten them up after your first hot/cold cylce, you should be fine. Which is also what i did.
I would go with the sway bar over the caltracs. You'll use the handling aspects of the truck much more than the bite and wheel spinning take-offs. At least that's what i would imagine.
Pretty sure the flip kit won't change ride quality unless the springs are changed. I would think the drop would be minimum of 4" because the axle tubing is like 3.5"
Truckin, from experience with my Mustang and Stage 8 locking header bolts....I will never use them ever again. They are such a PIA to keep the locking ring so you can fit the snap ring over it. This is extremely difficult in hard to fit areas. It took me about 6 hours to bolt my LT headers up on a 32v DOHC cobra motor. Now they were extraodinarily tight, but I had to leave a few out and the rest had to be done with one hand and all by feel with bolt locking ring and retainer in between 2 diff. fingers. Trust me. Very tough.
Now, since i have installed headers on my truck, thre were a few that were tough to get to. i used standard bolts and if you re-tighten them up after your first hot/cold cylce, you should be fine. Which is also what i did.
I would go with the sway bar over the caltracs. You'll use the handling aspects of the truck much more than the bite and wheel spinning take-offs. At least that's what i would imagine.
Pretty sure the flip kit won't change ride quality unless the springs are changed. I would think the drop would be minimum of 4" because the axle tubing is like 3.5"
plenty of people on here with headers and the bolts that come in the kit.
ride quality should be the same. I would choose sway bar also.
for the Y, having the LTs alone is going to move the cats. The Y that Pacesetter would sell you is going to 'delete' the cats. The PS LTs, Mag Y, and some minor fabbing will do you best. You probably don't even need any new fabrication. Hammer did it just by cutting the pipe off of the section with the cats (the cats will move toward the rear about 18" or so if I remember right).
I'm liking your truck more and more...
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Grand Champion
Joined: May 2006
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From: Gilbert, Arizona
Well just going by looks, a lot of the images I have seen with the Hellwig Sway Bar have the diff cover I am looking at. Its not a huge deal though so I will just get the sway bar and not worry about the diff cover for a while.
Here is the description for the headers and Y from Moes:
These are the JET-HOT Coated Longtube headers (Coated INSIDE AND OUT WITH JET HOT STERLING 1300 DEGREE COATING) and the Pacesetter Y-Pipe (aluminized finish). These fit the 2003-2006 Dodge Ram 1500.
So they are not coated, just a aluminized finish. I think I will go with it though, it'll save time I hope.
As far as the O2 setup, I will be doing like what Hammer has on his truck, from what I have heard he has not had any problems with it at all as far as codes go and I know a few people that are setup like this too. Here is the location of the bungs for the O2's:
Here is the description for the headers and Y from Moes:
These are the JET-HOT Coated Longtube headers (Coated INSIDE AND OUT WITH JET HOT STERLING 1300 DEGREE COATING) and the Pacesetter Y-Pipe (aluminized finish). These fit the 2003-2006 Dodge Ram 1500.
So they are not coated, just a aluminized finish. I think I will go with it though, it'll save time I hope.
As far as the O2 setup, I will be doing like what Hammer has on his truck, from what I have heard he has not had any problems with it at all as far as codes go and I know a few people that are setup like this too. Here is the location of the bungs for the O2's:
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Grand Champion
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,041
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From: Gilbert, Arizona
plenty of people on here with headers and the bolts that come in the kit.
ride quality should be the same. I would choose sway bar also.
for the Y, having the LTs alone is going to move the cats. The Y that Pacesetter would sell you is going to 'delete' the cats. The PS LTs, Mag Y, and some minor fabbing will do you best. You probably don't even need any new fabrication. Hammer did it just by cutting the pipe off of the section with the cats (the cats will move toward the rear about 18" or so if I remember right).
I'm liking your truck more and more...
3rd gen Ram, Newbies
Joined: May 2008
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From: Chicago
nope, you cut the Y section off of the Y...if that makes any sense. so you basically take the end off of the stock Y then slap the MF on there in its stead. Also have to take a section off closer to the cats so they can move back.
Moderate User
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Albany, NY
aaaahahahahahahaaaaaahaaa
Hammer, got that header pic handy
I was just mentioning the relocation of the bungs b4 u went through all the work and hassle of the install. But if nobody is having any issu'es then why mess with it I suppose.
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Grand Champion
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,041
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From: Gilbert, Arizona
I guess that could work, pipe size is still being reduced and is not a full 3" system like I would like it to be and would end up being quite a bit more work than I was hoping but if I went that route I could use the leftover $$$ I'd save from the pacesetter y to fix my welder instead of having to do it all over at my buddy's house.