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Torsion Bar Fatigued? Need Input.

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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 11:06 AM
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Default Torsion Bar Fatigued? Need Input.

So I decided to level my truck out this weekend after putting a set of BFG AT KO 285/70/17's on and found something I wasn't expecting.
When I took my baseline measurements the left side was 1/2" lower than the right. I then got underneath and looked at the anchor adjustment bolts. The left side was run in to only about 4 threads left. The right side had about 9 threads showing. I gave the left side one full turn and brought it back up to the right side height.
I bought my truck with about 42k on it. I just can't imagine why this left side was already so fatigued before I even got it. I figured if there was a 500lb man driving it that the seat would have been collapsed but it's fine.
I'm assuming that new torsion bars are in order. I've found them online for around $100 a piece w/ shipping.
I'd like some input, comments or just advise on what may have happened or where a good place to get replacements would be.

Thanks!

BTW, great forum. Been lurking here for a while seems like a great bunch of people with loads of knowledge.

Eric

2004 1500 QC Hemi 4x4
 
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 12:20 PM
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that doesn't sound right, ive never heard of a torsion bar go bad, especially with 42k. could it have been taken out and put back in wrong? does anything else look out of order?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 12:23 PM
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+1 I agree something ain't right!
 
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 12:53 PM
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you might want to go back and measure again. resistance in the suspension will make both sides settle at different heights. it is not uncommon for the screws to be different from left to right.

no way the torsion bar is fatigued. if anything it might have been out of spec and been twisted to begin with (two ends don't line up?).
 
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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Don't be so sure, it used to be a major problem with GM 1/2 ton trucks made from the mid 80's thru about the '98, especially with the heavier 350 CI engine.
I'd get the truck up and look/measure other factors, but it's not unheard of for a torsion bar to fatigue.
They ALL settle differently from the factory, that's the whole reason they come with adjusting bolts in the first place. You don't think the manufacturer is giving you adjusting bolts so you can do a free lift, do you?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 01:40 PM
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I agree with hammer on this one, but it's also possible the torsion key isn't seated right on the adjustment bolt, possibly from someone at one point d--king with it.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by HammerZ71
Don't be so sure, it used to be a major problem with GM 1/2 ton trucks made from the mid 80's thru about the '98, especially with the heavier 350 CI engine.
I'd get the truck up and look/measure other factors, but it's not unheard of for a torsion bar to fatigue.
They ALL settle differently from the factory, that's the whole reason they come with adjusting bolts in the first place. You don't think the manufacturer is giving you adjusting bolts so you can do a free lift, do you?
at 42k? when noone else has the problem?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 01:59 PM
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I didn't say it WAS the problem, and would check the seating and condition of ALL suspension components, but it IS entirely possible. Could be a weak piece of metal from manufacturing. Wouldn't be the first time...
 
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 02:37 PM
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I'll take a closer look at it tonight and see if I can spot any differences from side to side. If the bar was taken out at some point how could it have been put in wrong? It seems pretty cut and dry to install.
If the truck was in an accident that didn't show up on the Carfax I would think there would be some more issues with the handling or steering. The truck tracks and handles fine. I see no obvious signs of frame damage but who knows.

My initial measurements were taken right after I drove into the garage and didn't have the weight off the wheels yet. I checked the tire pressure to make sure they were the same and measured from the floor to the lip of the fender going straight up from the spindle. I have since read the FSM and saw that there are 2 measurements to take and then a little subtraction to do to get the ride height. I'll check that too.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 02:58 PM
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Also, is it absolutely required to use the GM unloader tool or can I modify a c-clamp to work? Probably not but I thought I'd ask before I blow close to $200 for a specialized tool.
 
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