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Bad tie rod ends

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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 12:37 PM
  #11  
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They make them that way so people who don't know how to work on their own vehicles have to bring it to the dealership and pay buckets of money for something they know will fail. It's a win/win for them they sell you a part then get you with labor.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 12:45 PM
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I had both tie rods ends replaced under warranty at 20K miles. Seems to be a common problem on these trucks.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by cwboyjohnny24
They make them that way so people who don't know how to work on their own vehicles have to bring it to the dealership and pay buckets of money for something they know will fail. It's a win/win for them they sell you a part then get you with labor.
So true. All my ball joints appear to be shot visually (rubber torn to shreds), though there is no noticeable slop in them when testing manually. I've got the same big vibration mentioned in the original post when braking. Pads and rotors are in near perfect condition. I'm hoping ball joint replacement will correct the problem. Got a quote on my '02 1500 2wd for upper and lower ball joints and an alignment....$785+tax+any shims needed for aligment. And that wasn't even from the stealership. Yikes! So instead I ordered Moog replacements (p/n k7411 and k7424) for a total of $210 with no tax and free shipping. Actually getting them from Amazon, only because other sites charged shipping (rockauto.com looks like a really nice site). They are in transit now. Looks like I've got a project in my future...
 
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 11:00 AM
  #14  
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Yeah, it'll take you a few hours to change them out, it's not that difficult just a pain in the arss. You always save money by doing it yourself. Don't forget your alignment afterwords.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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mines at a shop right now...I dropped it off this morning but apparently they're really wrestling w/ it. Says they may need it til tomorrow. Luckily they quoted me 3hrs labor and he says hes gonna stick to it. I'm about to call them back to get better details but from what I gathered they're having to drop the LCA etc etc.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 01:13 PM
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are they doing ball joints or tie rod ends snide?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 01:41 PM
  #17  
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Yup very common problem like everyone else has said i had mine replaced already warranty at 28,000 and it temporarily fixed it for about a week. same thing heavy heavy vibration while braking. the other factor you might want to look into that i found on mine not saying this is at all the same for anyone else. Look to see if your tires are cupped. If they are similar to mine the tires are terribly cupped. Mine are so bad the cheap POS tires that are stock on the rims blow nut. worst tires ive ever had on a vehical. they went bad at 18,000 miles. New tires will fix most of the vibration if not the rest of it after the tie rods are replaced. I havent changed yet cause with the 20" rims tires are out rageuos for a decent set. I wont have the cash till after the snow season so im trying to make it till spring then change them. Like the others said a pry bar and BFH hitting the nuckle it will pop right out i garantee it. good luck to you
 
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 01:48 PM
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I'm in Orlando too, hey where did you take your truck to to have it fixed?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by snidehockey
mines at a shop right now...I dropped it off this morning but apparently they're really wrestling w/ it. Says they may need it til tomorrow. Luckily they quoted me 3hrs labor and he says hes gonna stick to it. I'm about to call them back to get better details but from what I gathered they're having to drop the LCA etc etc.

BS. They prob haven't even touched your truck.

Isn't that nice. He's trying to play the good guy.

The lower control arm does not need to be dropped. You simply take your wheel off, take out the cotter pin, unbolt the nut and with a swift whack of the hammer....Comes apart. I'm sure the garage guys have a pickle fork so they don't have to beat up your truck.

All honesty....3 hours is even a long time unless they are doing an alignment as well which you WILL need.

Just so you do feel better. That is your wobble problem. I had the same prob on a previous car and the tie-rods solved the problem.
It was on a 95 Stratus and the tie-rods took me less than 1/2hr to change BOTH sides on my back in my driveway....FYI
 

Last edited by dirtydog; Dec 11, 2009 at 03:37 PM.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 03:47 PM
  #20  
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Just to clarify for everyone...It's the lower ball joints that are being replaced. I think there's two separate topics going on because my original post was called bad tie rod ends (I thought that's what these were called) but it's actually bad ball joints. You know the ones that are pressed in and have 4 rivets holding the plate that they're pressed into onto the LCA. I bought new moog's that they're TRYING to put in.

And cowboy, the place is some hole in the wall in Leesburg...my parents live in a nice neighborhood outside the City of Leesburg, and my dad got his vette tires there - they're pretty decent. It's not ALL bad...I got to drive the Lingenfelter all the way back to Orlando on the turnpike today. (that's my temporary wheels til it's fixed)
 
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