Off-Roading
#31
RE: Off-Roading
Bro your truck is bad ***, some of the pictures i have sen of it are crazy! I have still been so busy with my job that I havent relly been able to take my truck off road much i am not sure about getting a lift but I know i am at least gona get differen tires. I went once just north of Albuquerque but it was pretty weak(picture below). What part of arizona are most of those pitures taken at?
#32
RE: Off-Roading
Most of my pics are of areas North of Phoenix but South of Flagstaff. That's sort of my main range for day trips. I try to hit as many areas as i can though. I've gone as far as the Colarado River on the border with California and i've also gone a bit into New Mexico. The mountains and high desert are the most fun but the lower desert can be good as well for a change of scenery.
I suggest you get a book or two with details of trails in your area. Once you get out and run a few you'll be dying to lift your Ram. Especially when you get to a part of the trail that forces you to turn around. I made it a point to go back and run the trails that turned me around when i was stock.
Good luck
[IMG]local://upfiles/7688/BF6E83CD0A02446EABF9F16B248B95A8.jpg[/IMG]
I suggest you get a book or two with details of trails in your area. Once you get out and run a few you'll be dying to lift your Ram. Especially when you get to a part of the trail that forces you to turn around. I made it a point to go back and run the trails that turned me around when i was stock.
Good luck
[IMG]local://upfiles/7688/BF6E83CD0A02446EABF9F16B248B95A8.jpg[/IMG]
#33
RE: Off-Roading
ORIGINAL: salomonskier
I have heard that that is true on the new rams as well. That is a vey good point you brought up.
just curious if theres any difference in transfer case integrity. i had heard on some newer chevy's the strength of the transfer case depended on whether it had the off road package or not. just wondering if dodge might of done the same or not.
#34
RE: Off-Roading
ORIGINAL: Boulee
there's nothing special about the off road package. to get something special you'd have to step up to the power wagon, which I plan on doing
there's nothing special about the off road package. to get something special you'd have to step up to the power wagon, which I plan on doing
Power Wagon... drool... Wait... What? You Serious? No way? No Cummins? FORGET IT!!!!
Build me a Cummins Power Wagon and we will talk, until then, pretty but.. No.
Everyone I have talked to says the Hemi is underpowered for the 2500 trucks and the Power Wagons extra options add even more weight. I have read numerous articles that say the same thing, Cummins, no Hemi. Hemi is sweet don't get me wrong, but for real torque, which lets face it is pretty much the most important thing in the nasty stuff, you have to have the Cummins.
#35
#36
RE: Off-Roading
Okay I'm Pissed...
Did you fix the CV joint yourself or look to your warranty? I recently busted a CV but it looks more like its because the front Diff Mounting Points cracked completely loose and caused an even worse angle on the darn thing...
http://allkinds.ods.org/gallery/05-diff
Did you fix the CV joint yourself or look to your warranty? I recently busted a CV but it looks more like its because the front Diff Mounting Points cracked completely loose and caused an even worse angle on the darn thing...
http://allkinds.ods.org/gallery/05-diff
ORIGINAL: ce2flaco
Warped rotors? Bent tow hooks? Water over rockers a promlem?
Total nonsense.
I have had water half way up the doors(no leaks either). And i have pulled a jeep and full size chevy with my tow hooks without a problem. My rotors are as true as ever. Rotors warp when they are to thin after having been turned. I don't turn my rotos after each set of pads. I would rather buy new pads a bit sooner than new rotors when the turned ones warp.
Check this link to see a 2003 1500 hemi in every sort of mess we could find to put it in.
http://community.webshots.com/user/ce2flaco
I will confess though. I recently snaped a front CV joint during some serious off camber hill climbing. Had to finish the trail in 3 wheel drive. These trucks are not not quite as bullet proof as the older trucks but they do just fine if you don't get retarded with them.
Also, from my experience the trick to keeping water out of your engine is to keep the factory air box. Don't get one of those goofy cone filter/cold air intakes if your gonna go off road. They are dust magnets and will be hard pressed to keep much water out. The factory box does a very good job with a replacement K&N filter installed. The water tends to collect in the bottom of the box and not get past the oiled filter. You never want to plow through water at speed. Slow and steady. Know how high your air box is and NEVER go deeper.
[IMG]local://upfiles/7688/A4D0421F3BCC42578A962B215CCD5AEC.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/7688/02800F4EEC374331B89C547BF69790E6.jpg[/IMG]
Warped rotors? Bent tow hooks? Water over rockers a promlem?
Total nonsense.
I have had water half way up the doors(no leaks either). And i have pulled a jeep and full size chevy with my tow hooks without a problem. My rotors are as true as ever. Rotors warp when they are to thin after having been turned. I don't turn my rotos after each set of pads. I would rather buy new pads a bit sooner than new rotors when the turned ones warp.
Check this link to see a 2003 1500 hemi in every sort of mess we could find to put it in.
http://community.webshots.com/user/ce2flaco
I will confess though. I recently snaped a front CV joint during some serious off camber hill climbing. Had to finish the trail in 3 wheel drive. These trucks are not not quite as bullet proof as the older trucks but they do just fine if you don't get retarded with them.
Also, from my experience the trick to keeping water out of your engine is to keep the factory air box. Don't get one of those goofy cone filter/cold air intakes if your gonna go off road. They are dust magnets and will be hard pressed to keep much water out. The factory box does a very good job with a replacement K&N filter installed. The water tends to collect in the bottom of the box and not get past the oiled filter. You never want to plow through water at speed. Slow and steady. Know how high your air box is and NEVER go deeper.
[IMG]local://upfiles/7688/A4D0421F3BCC42578A962B215CCD5AEC.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/7688/02800F4EEC374331B89C547BF69790E6.jpg[/IMG]
#37
RE: Off-Roading
Ce2flaco, I have to disagree with you,for one your right thin rotors will warp,but all dodge ram rotors have been warping by the time you have 25,000 miles on them. Some much less mileage these rotors are junk,I for example brake lightfooted, don't drive through deep water, and use a torque wrench every time I rotate my tires and they warped at 23,000 miles. They were pulsating very bad especialy when brake at higher speeds!!!! [sm=trust_me.gif]
#38
RE: Off-Roading
Viper>
My CV breakage was different in that it came apart at the hub not near the diff. Basically the other end, which made mine easier to limp home. I bet yours was a pain in the rear!
I did replace mine myself. It was not covered under warranty because of the lift. It requires removing the brakes, shock, pressing out the upper ball joint[sm=signs003.gif] and then prying out the "cup" that you still have sticking out of the diff housing with a big swrewdriver or a pry bar(it has a keeper ring that holds it into a recessed groove where it enters the diff.). You also have to remove the main hub nut(obviously). With all that done you should be able to wiggle the new half shaft into place very carefully so as not to rip the boots and be sure the keeper ring pops back into the groove. Also be sure to turn your wheels before you start as to give yourself the maximum ammount of distance to get the new shaft in. I suggest buying an aftermarket or rebuilt half shaft. The price difference is ridiculous(less than half what dodge wants) and to me the aftermarket unit seems better in that it doesn't rust like the factory shaft did. Other than that they are identical. A local rack and axle shop should be able to hook you up or point you in the right direction.
Good luck and have fun.
Muddauber>
42500 miles...no warpage at all. No pedal shudder, no vibration, no issues at all. All i did was replace my pads with dodge replacements at 28000 miles or so.[sm=trust_me.gif]
And as pictures prove, this ram is not pampered in ANY way. New Motor, all new U-joints front to back, new front drive shaft, new right short shaft, third set of tires and one completely mushed skid plate but no new brake rotors.
My CV breakage was different in that it came apart at the hub not near the diff. Basically the other end, which made mine easier to limp home. I bet yours was a pain in the rear!
I did replace mine myself. It was not covered under warranty because of the lift. It requires removing the brakes, shock, pressing out the upper ball joint[sm=signs003.gif] and then prying out the "cup" that you still have sticking out of the diff housing with a big swrewdriver or a pry bar(it has a keeper ring that holds it into a recessed groove where it enters the diff.). You also have to remove the main hub nut(obviously). With all that done you should be able to wiggle the new half shaft into place very carefully so as not to rip the boots and be sure the keeper ring pops back into the groove. Also be sure to turn your wheels before you start as to give yourself the maximum ammount of distance to get the new shaft in. I suggest buying an aftermarket or rebuilt half shaft. The price difference is ridiculous(less than half what dodge wants) and to me the aftermarket unit seems better in that it doesn't rust like the factory shaft did. Other than that they are identical. A local rack and axle shop should be able to hook you up or point you in the right direction.
Good luck and have fun.
Muddauber>
42500 miles...no warpage at all. No pedal shudder, no vibration, no issues at all. All i did was replace my pads with dodge replacements at 28000 miles or so.[sm=trust_me.gif]
And as pictures prove, this ram is not pampered in ANY way. New Motor, all new U-joints front to back, new front drive shaft, new right short shaft, third set of tires and one completely mushed skid plate but no new brake rotors.
#39
RE: Off-Roading
Viper
I looked at your pictures a bit closer and i see what you mentioned about the diff cracking. You were being nice calling it cracking, it friggin broke! Looks to me like someone at the suspension shop torqued the hell out of the bolts when putting them on or you took a serious rock to the diff at speed. I can see where this would change the angle a bit but it seems odd that it would break the CV outright. I would visit the install shop and demand a new diff casing, CV and labor. Unless there is a deep dent/scratch in the bottom of your diff from a rock that they can point to and say, "You did that".
Hope i helped.
By the way your truck looks sweeet, except for the green grease all over the bottom.
I looked at your pictures a bit closer and i see what you mentioned about the diff cracking. You were being nice calling it cracking, it friggin broke! Looks to me like someone at the suspension shop torqued the hell out of the bolts when putting them on or you took a serious rock to the diff at speed. I can see where this would change the angle a bit but it seems odd that it would break the CV outright. I would visit the install shop and demand a new diff casing, CV and labor. Unless there is a deep dent/scratch in the bottom of your diff from a rock that they can point to and say, "You did that".
Hope i helped.
By the way your truck looks sweeet, except for the green grease all over the bottom.
#40
RE: Off-Roading
Nope No Rocks all Sand only...
Haven't even taken it on hard terrain as far as rocky terrain yet... before the lfit it sat too low and the tires would have fallen apart being the Stock 20" Streets. This was my first trip out to test the ride.
Dammit if it didn't fail miserably!!!!
Haven't even taken it on hard terrain as far as rocky terrain yet... before the lfit it sat too low and the tires would have fallen apart being the Stock 20" Streets. This was my first trip out to test the ride.
Dammit if it didn't fail miserably!!!!
ORIGINAL: ce2flaco
Viper
I looked at your pictures a bit closer and i see what you mentioned about the diff cracking. You were being nice calling it cracking, it friggin broke! Looks to me like someone at the suspension shop torqued the hell out of the bolts when putting them on or you took a serious rock to the diff at speed. I can see where this would change the angle a bit but it seems odd that it would break the CV outright. I would visit the install shop and demand a new diff casing, CV and labor. Unless there is a deep dent/scratch in the bottom of your diff from a rock that they can point to and say, "You did that".
Hope i helped.
By the way your truck looks sweeet, except for the green grease all over the bottom.
Viper
I looked at your pictures a bit closer and i see what you mentioned about the diff cracking. You were being nice calling it cracking, it friggin broke! Looks to me like someone at the suspension shop torqued the hell out of the bolts when putting them on or you took a serious rock to the diff at speed. I can see where this would change the angle a bit but it seems odd that it would break the CV outright. I would visit the install shop and demand a new diff casing, CV and labor. Unless there is a deep dent/scratch in the bottom of your diff from a rock that they can point to and say, "You did that".
Hope i helped.
By the way your truck looks sweeet, except for the green grease all over the bottom.