HID problem: headlights flash when I open the door etc.
Ok guys, i installed an HID conversion kit on my ram, all ok with the resistor and relay, so no flickering and no lamp out on.... but i still have an annoying problem:
the only strange thing mine does is flash the headlights when I open the door after it has sat for a while... even if i open them with hand or if it was closed and i open them with keyless entry.... same thing if i am in the car for some minutes and then put the key in the ign position hid will flash once...
for what i understand it turn on the high beam for a second....
what can i do to remove this annoying problem ?
the only strange thing mine does is flash the headlights when I open the door after it has sat for a while... even if i open them with hand or if it was closed and i open them with keyless entry.... same thing if i am in the car for some minutes and then put the key in the ign position hid will flash once...
for what i understand it turn on the high beam for a second....
what can i do to remove this annoying problem ?
i have this same issue with my truck. from what i can gather, since the HIDs are gas charged... the gas left in the bulb after shutting them off is ignited with the small electrical charge used to activate your cab lights when you open your door... causing that little flash. IMO i think its kinda cool, but thats me.
I read where it has something to do with the trucks FCM and PCM going to sleep mode so to speak and when opening the doors or anything else it sends a pulse signal to everything to wake up so to speak. There was a big thread on this some time back on DT.
Happens to me when I open the door or unlock the truck after about 5 minutes of leaving it in the driveway. Doesn't really bother me though.
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Ok, because the HIDs have no filament inside them, the truck cannot detect there actually is a bulb and therefore give you the Lamp Out light on the dash and because there is theorietically no bulb, theres no reason for the trucks FCM to send 12v to the bulbs.
Now, you do need a relay on the ballast because the initial startup pulls tremendous voltage surges. The OEM wiring is 18ga wiring. Some people say it can handle it, others differ. But we put relays on the harnesses to PROTECT our trucks and FCM and wiring from being possibly damaged. The trucks OEM headlight wiring only supplies 12v to the relay COIL and not the contacts. The relay contacts are wired directly to the battery and ballast(s). So when you turn on the lights, the 12v engergizes the relay coil which in turn closes the relay contacts with in turn takes voltage from the battery and supplies it directly to the ballast(s). A SPDT relay coil only needs about 200mA of voltage to engergize it. Anyone who does alarms or remote starts knows what im talking about.
Now, this all will ONLY happen IF the truck detects the bulbs and as we dicussed earlier, this will happen one of two ways. One is with halogen bulbs which we wont be having with HIDs and ballast so the only other option is the have load resistors that will SIMULATE the actual resistance or load that needs to be detected by the FCM to send 12v to the bulbs (or in this case the relay).
The trucks OEM headlight wiring has 3 wires. One in 12v for the high beam. One is 12v for the low beam and the last one is the common or AKA ground.
You should only really need two load resistors per side. Obviously this has 2 ends to it. If you take them scotch-loks and use them, one end of the load resistor will go on the 12v low beam wire and the other end of the load resistor will go on the common wire or AKA ground. the other load resistor goes from the 12v on the high beam and the other end to the common (AKA ground)
This will simulate the physical filament in the bulb which is needed by the trucks FCM to keep the Lamp Out light off, supply 12v to the relay which gives power to the ballast and fires the HID bulbs.
I hope all that makes sense because Im tired now. ;-)
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