lookin for a 4 link...
On a truck weighing 2.5 tons a 4 link isn't really going to keep your axle in place that well during normal road use and will probably be a nightmare off road, especially if you lifted up, that coolcars site do a 5 link system which will allow greater axle articulation and control with out the axle swinging about, it should also keep the axle from rotating under hard acceleration, I'd rather go for that system, performance tuners add 5 link systems to leaf sprung solid axle cars over here, for better control and to reduce axle tramping and they weigh less than a ton!
A 4 link will have no axle wrap under acceleration, as its directly connected to the rear end, and the bars wont be flexing. It will squat the rear, and lift the front.
A 5 link is usually a parallel 4 link, with a panhard bar. Panhard bars are good for keeping an axle centered, yet throughout your lift, the axle will sway side to side. With most bagged rides, wheel/tire to fender clearance is tight, so the last thing you want is to drop your ride and have the tire dragging your fender, or huge gaps. Triangulated 4 links wont allow side to side movement, will keep the axle centered throughout its whole travel.
The only other thing you may wanna check out, would be a watts link, along with a parallel 4 link. More links, more stuff to deal with, but its a slick setup, and looks trick(would be good to have an exposed bridge to show it off).
Last edited by Fathead_03; Feb 11, 2010 at 11:26 PM. Reason: going offroad wont happen
this might help. check out the video section there is a sweet hemi that is drifting.
http://unlawfulracing.com/
http://unlawfulracing.com/
Last edited by Marx; Feb 12, 2010 at 02:12 AM.
How about using a 09 rear coil sping setup for a bag setup? Find a nice fresh wreck and cut off the rear frame section and graft it to your truck. pull the springs and use bags. Modify as necessary to make it the height you want. Be hard to go wrong....
Thinking out loud.
Thinking out loud.
Last edited by RedTruck-VA; Feb 12, 2010 at 05:53 AM. Reason: correction
A properly setup 4 link is just fine for our trucks. He is planning on bagging his truck to the ground, not lifting it up. His driving height will probably be about 5", and that's to clear driveways. So there will be no concern going offroad, because it won't happen.
A 4 link will have no axle wrap under acceleration, as its directly connected to the rear end, and the bars wont be flexing. It will squat the rear, and lift the front.
A 5 link is usually a parallel 4 link, with a panhard bar. Panhard bars are good for keeping an axle centered, yet throughout your lift, the axle will sway side to side. With most bagged rides, wheel/tire to fender clearance is tight, so the last thing you want is to drop your ride and have the tire dragging your fender, or huge gaps. Triangulated 4 links wont allow side to side movement, will keep the axle centered throughout its whole travel.
The only other thing you may wanna check out, would be a watts link, along with a parallel 4 link. More links, more stuff to deal with, but its a slick setup, and looks trick(would be good to have an exposed bridge to show it off).
A 4 link will have no axle wrap under acceleration, as its directly connected to the rear end, and the bars wont be flexing. It will squat the rear, and lift the front.
A 5 link is usually a parallel 4 link, with a panhard bar. Panhard bars are good for keeping an axle centered, yet throughout your lift, the axle will sway side to side. With most bagged rides, wheel/tire to fender clearance is tight, so the last thing you want is to drop your ride and have the tire dragging your fender, or huge gaps. Triangulated 4 links wont allow side to side movement, will keep the axle centered throughout its whole travel.
The only other thing you may wanna check out, would be a watts link, along with a parallel 4 link. More links, more stuff to deal with, but its a slick setup, and looks trick(would be good to have an exposed bridge to show it off).
FYI I've got a lowered car with panhard rod (wheels in the arches) and it's fine.
Also been giving it some thought, I was looking at bits and pieces from http://www.suicidedoors.com/4-link-k...ted-4-link-kit
and was thinking, how about removing the springs and fabricating a square tube support from the front spring mount to the axle. This would be the main support piece to locate the axle and then install behind the axle bags and Hardpan to keep everything centered. Seems simple enough to work and provide enough flexibility raising or lowering depending on how the sq. tube was mounted to the axle.
and was thinking, how about removing the springs and fabricating a square tube support from the front spring mount to the axle. This would be the main support piece to locate the axle and then install behind the axle bags and Hardpan to keep everything centered. Seems simple enough to work and provide enough flexibility raising or lowering depending on how the sq. tube was mounted to the axle.
still undecided on either triangulated or parallel. my dad, whos got 20+ yrs of rock crawling experience says that a triangulated is better for off road and a parallel would be better for bagging (only vertical movement)... and i was checking out the KP watts linkage. thats a nice setup. i think i might go that route.
Watts links are soo sick. If you have the room out back, they rock. I had one on my 65 chevy panel. 19" of lift at the back bumper and stayed dead center the whole time. I built mine after getting under a newer Durango, back before they popularized the watts. They also ran them on PT cruisers.




