ok so i have to do my brakes in the next few months just want to make sure i've got everything be for i'm ***** deep

2 front rotors + 4 pads
2 back rotors + 4 pads
4 parking brake shoes (or just adjust them, there not holding)
can of brake cleaner
grease

and i should be able to do this with common hand tools? and wont have to bleed the brakes as long as i don't touch the brake pedel or brake lines.

anything i'm missing (it will be hard to go to the store in the middle of this lol )

i've done a few tractors (drums when i was 17, 22 now) but never a truck with rotors

 

Yep.
Get at least two large cans of brake cleaner.
Also, get yourself a medium sized G clamp (some people call them C clamps) so you can push the pistons back into the calipers so the new pads will fit.
Al.

 

Yep, do get more than one can of brake cleaner. You can never have too much. You'll need to get all the grime off the new rotors with it. Also get actual caliper grease for the boots. Just basic hand tools are needed, I forget the 2 sizes of sockets you need but they are metric if I remember right. Only thing I'd recommend getting are two disc pad spreaders (or you can use a large C-clamp as well). They are pretty cheap and the reason I recommend two is because the front brakes have two pistons that need to be compressed and I found it easier to do them both at the same time with two spreaders rather than make it work with one. Of course, when compressing the pistons, make sure you take the cap off the brake reservoir and use an old pad for the base when compressing. Maybe throw some antiseeze goo on the mounting hardware bolts since they were a b!tch to break loose and get off.

No need to bleed the lines. Although what I did was take a suction gun and suck out the brake fluid in my reservoir and replace it with some new fluid. I think it takes DOT 3 fluid but check to make sure.

 

The fluid is DOT3.
Use one of the old pads to place over the two front caliper pistons and use the C clamp over that and the backside of the caliper, to push the two pistons in over. The pad spreads the effort, of pushing the pistons in.

+1 on the use of correct caliper grease for the caliper slider pins. Most important.
A "full brake job" isn't complete unless the caliper slider pins and bolts are clean and free to move easily.
Make sure these are well clean and when re fitted, the whole caliper should move in and out easily by hand. That's why it's called a "floating calliper".
Check the rubber gators on the slider pins if the pins are rusty. Replace as necessary.
Also, check caliper piston gators for splits and damage and replace as necessary.
Manual also says replace the anti-rattle springs as well.
Place a little anti sieze compound on the metal brake pad ends, where they contact the anti rattle springs to aid in slidding. Don't put too much on, just a wipe will do. Also where the pistons touch the pads, a little smear around the outer piston edge faces helps as well. Just not too much. This helps to stop squeeling.
Caliper adaptor mounting bolts are torqued to: Front 176 N·m (130 ft.lbs.) Rear 135 N·m (100 ft.lbs)
Caliper sliding pin bolts Front 32N·m (24 ft. lbs.) Rear 15 N·m (11 ft. lbs.).

Can't remember the bolt sizes exactly, but I think the caliper adaptor bolts are from memory, are either 19 or 21mm and the front caliper sliding bolts are 14mm, rears 12mm......sorry.
On all bolt threads, put some kind of anti sieze compound on them, as next time it will pay dividends when you next do a brake job.

Most important part of all this is, MAKE SURE you do the new brake bedding in process. This is where a lot of people go wrong and cause warping of new rotors etc. Google the process or adhere to the manufactures recomendations, which are usually printed on the new pad boxes.
I can't stress enough, how important the braking in of new brakes is.
Oh yes......before you move the truck, pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the new pads and to make sure, you can stop the truck before you pull away lol.
More than a few people haven't done this and the first time they go for their brakes, the foot pedal is on the floor and they can't stop lol.
Hope this helps?
Al.

 

You'll need a wire or twine to tie the caliper body to the truck while you're replacing the pads. I put caliper grease on the rubber boots also. You may want some clips to hold the rotors flush to the hub (can't think of the name of these things, they look like washers with teeth).

 

Good info but since he's not changing out the calipers he won't need to bleed the system. He's not introducing air into the system. I normally take off the master cylinder cover when compressing the pistons too.

 

hey i got a quick brake question. im gonna be doing my brakes next week and my neighbor was saying something about not being able to compress the rear calipers like normal. that the pistons are different. is he full of it or is there something to it?

 

I haven't done a change on the rear brakes yet. I'm pretty sure they're the same style as the front. The calipers on rice burners are a little different sometimes where you actually turn the piston back in instead of compressing them. I'm almost definitely sure you compress them just like the front.

Oh, and you could use two c clamps to make sure both pistons go in at the same time or you could just put the old pad on top of the cylinders and compress them at the same time with one c clamp. Just a thought.

 

LOL, johnny, he said brake BEDDING not BLEEDING.

 

southern...the only difference is the rear only has one piston and the fronts have two.