FireFighter,
I appreciate the reply about purchase of that tool from you. Did not get the message until today. Have been working some crazy hours and not keeping up with emails or anything.
Guess I am a day late and a dollar short!!!

jfotsch

 

Not confirmed with BKelly yet, ironically you both responded today within 10 min of eaxh other. It's yours if I don't get confirmation from him today.

 

This thread is epic. Mainly posting because the crane cams tool isn't available anywhere, but also for some input. 03 2500 with the 5.7, DTC is 304 and 305. Plugs and wires are relatively new, coils were reasonable so I tried replacing those to no avail. Oddest part is that the truck doesn't seem to be misfiring.... I'd go so far as to say it runs great (except the 13 mpg). Not a lot of mods, headers, exhaust, drop in filter. I also have an 02 1500 with the 4.7, and when that thing misfires there is absolutely no doubt that something is wrong. (Had 3 coils go within a week lol)
Other problem is that the valve cover bolts/studs are pretty much shot, so it's not as simple as just pulling a cover off and checking it out.

I've done head gaskets on my 4.7, and swapped the motor. So not exactly shy about doing the work. Just looking for some help.

 

If it's running good and idles, you don't have a broken valve spring. Mine wouldn't idle and ran like crap at any other rpm.

 

Anybody out there still have one of these tools or know where I can get one?
Missed the boat last month with Firefighter but still want to get this done.
Just hit 101k and she runs strong as ever but you never know when the motor could grenade because of the inferior parts!!!
Also where is the best place to get the rods and springs?

Thanks,

 

I wouldn't do the rope thing in the cylinder, just put each cylinder that you work on at top dead center and do ONE at a time, confirm this by putting a foot long metal or plastic thin rod down the spark plug hole and see where it reaches maximum height, (make sure it doesn't bind in the hole as you move cylinder up & down, do it slow and take your time) that is the point where valve won't fall into the cylinder when valve spring keepers are removed. The valve will rest on piston at TDC and not fall in so long as nobody touches the crankshaft and moves piston down the cylinder before keepers are installed. This method works on dohc & sohc Neon engines, Magnum V8 & V6 Engines as well as the Hemi and as well as most any engine on the planet that at least has flat top pistons or shallow dishes.

 

Hey thanks,
I am certainly going to have a "REAL" mechanic do this one for me who is a friend and I will be there to hand him things!
I appreciate the info and have been watching the youtube stuff I can find but don't I still need one of those valve spring tools that are specific to the hemi since I am hoping to keep the heads on during the surgery?
So if I understand what you are saying we would have to hit TDC for every one removed to keep the piston from dropping down the cylinder?

Appreciate the helpful knowledge!!!

 

Yes, its easy to do, as stated earlier take even a coat hanger or thin rod of some sort stick it down the plug hole and find the point where piston reaches maximum height when turning crank by hand, the valve will not be able to drop into the cylinder so long as piston is at the top of its stroke. This way the piston holds the valve up for you instead of shoving a flexible rope in that will be hard to extract and you can't confirm its coverage.

 

Couple year old thread, but does anybody have the $75 tool for sale? I've PMed a couple people and sent e-mails but haven't heard back.

Also, regarding removing the brake booster for the driver's side of the HEMI, is that something that can just be unbolted from the firewall and moved out of the way slightly, or is it something that will require draining the brake fluid and a bleeding of the entire brake system?

 

Also looking for the hemi spring tool. Materdaddy should get first crack if someone has one but, I'll take the next one. Looking for either the $75 dollar version or the crane cams one. cirilian@yahoo.com. Thanks.

Materdaddy-Removing the booster involves removing four 15mm bolts from under the dash and the two 13mm bolts that hold the master to the booster, then the booster can be removed while the master stays in place. There is no need to open the system and remove the master cylinder, just tie it up and out of the way.