5.7L Hemi-Broken Valve Spring - Help
I upgraded to the 6.1 springs and rods, rock solid for 2 years.
Choice is yours to use compressed air method or cotton rope. I used cotton rope. used a dowel to find upstroke marked top and bottom on the dowel. 3/4 of the way up drop some string in the through the spark plug finish easing it to the top. I recommend an extension magnet to hold the spring clips and put some rags to cover the oil returns (rags a tip from other users). Just take your time. If you do the driver's side take the hint and remove the brake booster, makes a world of difference. This thread is full of some great advice!!
Choice is yours to use compressed air method or cotton rope. I used cotton rope. used a dowel to find upstroke marked top and bottom on the dowel. 3/4 of the way up drop some string in the through the spark plug finish easing it to the top. I recommend an extension magnet to hold the spring clips and put some rags to cover the oil returns (rags a tip from other users). Just take your time. If you do the driver's side take the hint and remove the brake booster, makes a world of difference. This thread is full of some great advice!!
This thread is full of win. I'm in the process of swapping out the springs on my '03 5.7l 1500. Other than the stock 5.7 rods being 3 piece are there any other reason to change over to the 6.1 rods? Are the 5.7 rods prone to breaking like the 5.7 springs? I only had intentions of swapping the springs as a preventative thing. If I need to swap the rods I will, but after having to drop $168 for the crane spring compression tool I wanted to get this done as cheap as possible.
Another question. I got the springs changed on the driver side, but for the life of me I can't get the rocker arm shaft back on with the rods lined up. It almost seems like the rods are keeping the shaft from seating properly, like they're to long. Intake rods are shorter than the exhaust rods, so I know I'm not using the wrong ones. Any tips on getting the rods seated and the shaft back in place? Also the haynes manual says rocker arm bolts to 16ft lbs, rocker arm lifter rail bolts 106in lbs and weedahoe's cam swap thread says 195in lbs. Which one is the proper torque for the 10 (10mm) bolts on the rocker arm shaft?
Another question. I got the springs changed on the driver side, but for the life of me I can't get the rocker arm shaft back on with the rods lined up. It almost seems like the rods are keeping the shaft from seating properly, like they're to long. Intake rods are shorter than the exhaust rods, so I know I'm not using the wrong ones. Any tips on getting the rods seated and the shaft back in place? Also the haynes manual says rocker arm bolts to 16ft lbs, rocker arm lifter rail bolts 106in lbs and weedahoe's cam swap thread says 195in lbs. Which one is the proper torque for the 10 (10mm) bolts on the rocker arm shaft?
I wouldn't use 6.1L rods on a stock 5.7 hemi, they are too long. When I installed a comp cam, which had a base circle in between the 5.7L and the 6.1L hemi I had used 6.1L exhaust rods and 5.7L intake rods. The 6.1L intake rods had too much preload on my intake lifters; on a stock cam it would surely have caused issues. Just do the 6.1L exhaust springs for all 16 on the 5.7L
compressed air was the fastest way to go oh an replace the valve stem seals too if over 100k, I no longer lose oil like it was before hard to believe that much can slip/drip by with no smoke puff at start up
Send me a PM later.





