One...last thing...I hope. I was looking at the seal they sold me vs the pic's in the haynes. Haynes shows an intake and exhaust seal, which their pic's look alot different than what I have. Below is what they sold me...this cool for the intake seal?

 

Yes that is correct, maybe since you have a older 03 they made some changes and revised things I have 3 or 4 sets of heads laying around and they all have those seals, and WOW that is one FILTY engine valve train, Now Im a beleiver in the mobil1 synthetic with cleaning detergants this was on a 300C it was a 2006 with 93000 miles It has mobil1 ran through it since 500 miles,
Caminstall011.jpg?t=1268674911

 

Yeah, no doubt. I'd like to you know what to the original owner for mistreating a motor like that. All I run through the LS1 is Mobile1 syn. as well. Any idea why it's that color in there?


Anyway, I connect compressed air to the cylinder and that air is escaping thru the throttle body which makes the compressor run continous. It's showing that there is only a steady 20-25psi, will this be enough to hold the valve in place? I have the piston TDC. Any risk of that spring falling apart when I remove the rocker? If so, then I need to have the air running during the whole process. Please let me know as I have stopped until I know for sure.

Thanks guys!

 

That doesn't sound right?
Sounds as though the inlet valve is still open on the cylinder your applying the air to, to bleed back through to the TB the way your describing.
I wonder if the valves bent, not allowing the valve to come all the way up to seal as it should?
The cylinder should hold air if the valves are on there seats.
If air doesn't work, try the old "nylon cord" trick mentioned earlier in this thread.
That will get you to the point of removing the valve to check it's integrity.
Al.

 

Yep, difinitely sounds like air is leaking past the intake valve into the intake. Recheck TDC for that cylinder.

 

I think when I posted a while back about what psi should I use when doing a valve job, I was quoted 80psi.
Someone will post up. I think Weed has done it the air way when he installed his cam. He might post up the pressure he used.
As for the leak as RedTruck-VA said, are you sure your at TDC for that piston?
If you are, then the valve isn't seating and it could be bent if the spring is snapped.
If so, you will need new guides for that cylinder along with a valve and a valve job to get the new one seated.
Check the top of the piston in that cylinder with a boroscope, to make sure the top of the piston isn't damaged if you discover that the valves bent.
I know that most people would pull the head at that stage, if they found a bent valve.
Al.

 

Please keep us updated on this as I am very interested. Also, I thought the exhaust springs were the problem, not the intakes. Please clarify... Thanks.

 

Yes, I believe it is usually the exhaust side of things that go awry RedTruck-VA. Something about the lift being higher on the exhaust side causing spring failures? I believe you replace all 16 valve springs though if your going to do the 6.1 spring change.
Al.

 

Agreed, all 16 exhaust valve springs upgraded to the 6.1 springs is the way to go. But again he mentioned using an intake oil seal, so I don't know what's broken on his engine. Obviously exhaust valves run hotter than the intakes and this additional heat gets transfered to the spring to a certain extent and if the spring isn't top quality it can be prone to breakage.

 

Certain oils and additives will stain the inside of the engine. RP we all know is one of them. I use it and I can tell you from pulling my engine apart that is does change the color of the engine internals.

When I did mine I rotated to that cylinders TDC and put my air hose in the cyl to fill with air. My take has about 200psi but doesnt cut on until 75psi and i had no issues holding the valve in place. I used my socket on the crank snout with a 1/2" breaker bar and a piece or pipe laid against the frame. I suggest you stand on that pipe against the frame because when you connect the air line to the cyl it WILL push the piston down and try to rotate the engine. This in turn will crack open a valve so air will pass by and you could drop a valve is the leak is bad enough. I never had any issues but the possibility is there. So it is normal to hear the air passing past the valve a small bit.

Once that is done I put my spring compressor on, squeeze the spring, remove the keepers and retainer, release the valve, swap the valve, compress the valve, put back on the retainer and keepers and let the spring up slowly.

I did all of mine above the engine. The fan and shroud are easy to remove. A 2' breaker bar is fine but again, a piece of pipe to add to it helps. Before you can pull the springs you will need to pull the entire rocker arm shaft so when you do that all of those springs will be fully extended

Putting a zip tie on the end to act as a retainer is a good idea. And yes you could then release the air and rotate the valve by hand to check it as best you can.

exactly and hopefully thats all there will need to be done

No prob and again, just LMK if you need anything.