Thanks everyone. Intake spring on top rocker arm driver's side. The rocker has an "I" on it in the photo I posted.

Wow, now I am really confused.

Ok, I have all plugs removed and serpentine belt removed. Still have rockers in place due to wanting air in cyl. before taking rocker off in case spring falls apart.

I used Weed's coat hanger method for TDC...but I saw in Haynes that it's supposed to be on the compression stroke. Not sure of it is or not? What is worrying me now is that I had my wife turn the motor as I watched the coat hanger to mark it, it was easy and no pipe/leverage needed....did it with 21mm and 1/2" socket wrench. I faintly remember my buddy doing this on my LS1 TA and it was a chore for him. What am I doing wrong....why is it so easy to turn? I missing something. Now, I'm freaking out.

When I 1st connected air to my #5 cylinder in the closet plug hole to me, I have plug installed in other for that cylinder, air came out of the opposite side #6 cyl. I installed the 2 plugs back in there and that's when I heard/felt air coming through/out the throttle body.

 

Like i said, air coming out the other cylinder is normal.

With all the plugs out the engine IS easy to spin over. Put plugs in the cylinders and then you have to overcome the compression

 

Heh, heh. I know ya'll think I'm slow. I am! Anyway, yes, that's why I pulled all 16 plugs so that it would be easy. So, obviously, I need the plugs in for compression when applying my air source. I don't know the complete internals of the motor, so I am assuming their are connecting valleys, etc and hence my loss of air.

I'm guessing that the cylinder is TDC but on the wrong stroke due to air coming out of the TB (valve not seated)? Although, the spring looks to be fully extended. Will I be safe taking the rocker arms off 1st without air...is there a chance of that broken spring falling apart and me dropping a valve without having air?

I owe you all for all of this. I'll be back in a couple hours, need to go buy new compressor, just found out mine has fire hazard recall...ironically, the motor kept tripping the internal breaker on it last night.

 

The problem is not finding TDC, it is KEEPING it once you apply air. And again that is only because even with both valves closed, the air tries (and will) push the piston down the cylinder. The in turn makes you lose TDC and because of the engine rotating, it cracks a valve open and loses air.

But overall it sounds like you are doing fine so far. Just dont loose those valve stem keepers!!

 

Ok, that make more sense now. Ok, headed out to buy new compressor, will put plugs back in (new ones) and start over. No wonder I'm losing air. How frigging ironic for my compressor to be tripping its internal breaker last night and for me to find this http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml08/08210.html So, headed to Home Depot to buy a new Husky 20 gallon/155psi for $179. That ought to be better anyway. Also, not one parts store had all my plugs, 1 had 8, the other had 2...they just called and have them now...crazy man.

I will update and thank you so much for helping me out.

 

Ok, had a few speedbumps in my schedule and got back on it tonight. It doesn't look good.

I've got all the plugs in, I used the coat hanger method of TDC, I rotated the crank until the coat hanger topped out and stopped when it slightly began it's down stroke. Also, still with all plugs in, the motor is fairly easy to turn with the breaker bar, no pipe needed. I applied air to the cylinder and I still have the air escaping from thru the TB.

I found that the spring is broken in 2 places, opposite from each other. I can very easily turn the spring around with the rocker arm still attached. I am afraid to remove the rocker until I have that valve secure. Obviously the valve is not seating?

Nylon rope method...you mean to feed as much as possible down inside cyl. to fill the cavity, turn motor to get piston up as far as possible....is this to have the nylon rope filling the cyl to keep the valve from dropping?

Man, this has me worried now. Will wait to hear from you guys.

 

on the rope method... yes, fill the cylinder with rope so that when you push the piston back up it will put force up against the valve & it will not drop when you remove the retainer...

since you have it partially torn down, I'd suggest retesting with the air once you have the new spring in place. if its still leaking with that cylinder at TDC, you most likely have a valve seat issue or bent valve (air leaking thru the intake or exhaust).

 

Ok, cool, thanks Steve. Wanted verification on the rope before I attempted. So, if there is a seat issue of the valve and it's not bent, is this something I can fix here or will I have to pull the head?

 

if you swap the spring, put the piston @ TDC for that cylinder and it still is leaking air, you have an issue with that cylinder and you will most likely have to pull the head.

had a #8 valve seat die on my old 360 gasser and the air pressure test told me which valve seat had the problem before I pulled the head. $40 bux later I was bolting it back together. total $ for yanking the head (all parts & fluids) was about $150 bux IIRC. hopefully you wont have that issue...

 

Ok, will try the nylon rope, swap the spring and see what happens. Thank you steve. Only thing I don't understand is that if the air did hold, and I retain the valve via zip tie, etc, stop the air to test the integrity of the valve, how does it seat itself back correctly? I guess that I'm not understanding the seating properties.
Will let ya'll know what happens.