Hey guys so after the 9 pages of search results I would up with no answer to my question.

I plan on doing 4.56's here shortly so that I can get the truck ready for maybe a couple race days this summer.

The guy at the performance shop here in town hasn't got a clue what parts I need so maybe y'all can help.

I know I need the gears and an install kit plus fluids.

He mentioned something about needing a new carrier perhaps?
Also I don't wanna do any one wheel wonder burnouts... The truck doesn't do them now but do I need a locker or anything to keep it that way?

Thanks for the help.

 

I'd buy a DTT while you already have everything apart. That way if you plan on installing one in the future you won't have to pay additional labor cost.

Here you go for your gears:
http://moesperformance.com/index.php...oducts_id=1163

Truetrac:
http://moesperformance.com/index.php...roducts_id=621

 

Sounds like you got the money to replace whatever gets destroyed when on the strip letting it all hang out. My advice too you don't do it until your ques. are answered through someone elses experience. Not j/k here really the strip is serious shlt. But you do what ya gotta do imo is all for what its' worth.

 

I haven't had this particualr truck to the strip but m second gen has been there a couple times. We have a thing out here called secret street night (every friday) and you pay 25 bucks to run all night)

I know there's risk involved but I wanna see where my truck sits now before I start into the performance.

Thanks for the links Got Hemi
Did you notice a huge difference with your gears?

 

Oh and I forgot to mention I'll be doing all the install myself so if there's any headaches I might run into it would be a huge plus to know in advance

 

We have the same thing at the track 5 mins from my house. Every Thursday is Test & Tune night. If it has wheels and a motor, it gets raced. It's $10 for all night.

The stock drive train is junk. It's only a matter of time before it blows. The trutrac is definitely worth the money and i have never heard a negative comment about it. With the DTT there are no clutches to wear out and no longer have to add friction modifier to your gear lube. The gears make night and day difference. Low end pulls are much better and thus far the best mod for the money. I haven't noticed much difference in high way driving.


This was the one thing that i let a shop do. If anything was screwed up it was on them. If you have the tools and know how to set backlash then go for it.

 

Ohio ny upstae probably penn not Ct. NOOOOO WAY we can.t even drink beer in a state park! I gotta move this state Blows Can't have any fun unless it's ultra clean even then it's usually chaperoned by the police. wtf...

 

If you have to ask a single question about gears, there is NO WAY you should attempt the install yourself! Most experienced mechanics farm out gears to an axle shop with a seasoned gear man. To date, it's the only mod on my truck I've not done myself. 4.56s would get you off the line considerable faster than stock 3.92s.

Most of the "track" guys I know opt for the Auburn LSD saying that the clutch plate type LSDs react faster than the gear driven ones. The DTT is more for the off-road types. Figures, I wouldn't know what to do at a track if my life depended on it but I have the Auburn.

Yes, clutches do wear, but with average use, and Auburn performance series is rated to last 100,000 miles. I had a set on my '98 2nd Gen lifted 4x4 and when I traded at 68k miles, they still performed like the day I had them installed. Yes they also require friction additive.

Most serious track guys opt for the Auburn "Pro" series as they lock up harder due to a bias ratio of 3.5:1 as compared to the 2.5:1 of the "Performance" series. By comparison, a DTT is about 2.8:1.

Keep in mind however, that the higher the bias, the better it "locks up", but the less "streetable" it is.

 

Ive got an Auburn LSD and Motive 456s. You will not need a new carrier but if you can get one then cool. To fit the gears you will need to shave the carrier pin so there is no contact.

http://www.motivegear.com/tech_info/...tructions.html

CHRYSLER

PROBLEM: CHRYSLER: 9.25", 12 Bolt Cover, 4.56 and Higher.
I bought 4.56 gears for my 1/2 ton pickup, but I cannot get the cross pin into my carrier.
SOLUTION: It does not matter whose gears you use. You will need to modify your cross pin to use a 4.56 or higher gear in your vehicle. This applies for open differential, Auburn and Eaton differentials. The pin will need to be cut at an angle opposite the bolt hole. Because every manufacturer is different, no measurement is provided.

 

Im a little scared of doing the gear swap in mine and I build my eninge, and 4 of my 6 tranmissions, on top of many other cam swaps and tranmission work. That is somthing not to be taken lightly a wrong setting and youll waste your 400-600 in gears and bearings in a few miles. Everything mentioned above will work well for what your wanting to do for traction ALSO when installing 456s you have to Shave down the center pin on the carrier for clearance. But other than that Its just some nuts and bolts ha ha
1-Gear set
2-Master install kit (bearings, shims)
3-Gear fluid (456s with abuse should go for the 75w140 I use mobil 1)
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...75W-140LS.aspx
-High temp RTV (red or black) to seal back up your rear
If you are still set on putting them in yourself you will need a torque wrench, dial indicator, marking compond to set your gears up and metric wrenchs and sockets AND GOOD LUCK