I read an article where someone with a CTD that had injector problems - the dealer checked it out and the computer said it had run X% at less than 1000 RPM - and not to do that. Could be stealership BS...

Regardless of your rig - tire pressure is critical. I keep mine at 38lbs on 42lbs max - and adjust each time before I tow. Tire blow-outs dur to over inflation can happen on a 1500, 2500 or 3500...

Yes - over loading is not good. I am marginal - probably technically over by 300-400 lbs GVW. However - I beefed up the suspension and keep my speed reasonable. The difference is - in Manitoba - they don't care too much about GVW. They are primarily concerned over axle weights. Mine is 3900+3900 - I am at about 7,000lbs (+350lbs) all loaded. Also - it's pretty flat around here.

I passed a Ferd Expedition towing a 20' TT - nobody in the back seat - completely dragging its' a$$. Swaying all over the place - probably within its' GVWR.

Up here - CTD 2500's are at least $55,000 CAD or $44,000 USD. Little negotiating room and not as good a deal on financing.

Dave

 

Bottom line is you CAN tow with your 1500 and it IS a bad idea unless you drive slow on flat roads w/o a lot of stop and go city driving and do not have much gear in the truck or trailer, but why would you do that? What did your truck do to you to make you want to do that to it? I suggest you check the weight limits of your rear tires and consider an upgrade. Tires are cheap. Please, also remember your brakes are not what they should be for this kind of abuse, so drive slower than you want to.

 

On a standard tongue trailer, you want the tongue weight to be at or under 10% of the trailer's overall weight. I would assume that if the same reference was kept for a 5th wheel, that would only be a 1000 pound tongue load. trailer brakes are a must, we had a 10,000 pound trailer with a re-enforced frame mounted bumper hitch, and it took 1 mile of towing to discover that trailer brakes were a must have, and thats with a DUALLY.

the hemi is RATED at 9000 pounds towing, but I wouldn't trust it. of course it helps to have a tri-axle trailer over a dual-axle, but even with load distrubution, what you plan would be pushing it, even with a tranny cooler. Tow-haul mode will also help, but the thing that would help most is swapping gears and getting a power programmer to pull more torque from the HEMI to make that trailer feel a bit lighter.

 

Trailer brakes are a must on anything over a couple thousand, which is a heavy empty car flatbed. Put a car on it and you're up to 5-7k and trailer brakes are mandatory for the safety of everyone else on the road. You can tell the difference with just the empty trailer though.

 

I agree on the tire issue.

The 20's are well-rated for weight (both stock HP and Michelin LTX). If you have the stock 17's (probably good for 1700lbs each - I would get some nice LT-rated tires.

On the brake issue - the 1500's have 13.9/13.2 discs (f/r). Since 80% of the braking is donw in the front - the 2500's 13.9/13.9 (f/r) rating won't make much difference.

When you need pads - get some Hawk pads (I had to put on Wagner Thermo Quiet pads - cannot get Hawk pads in a decent timefram at a dcent price up here).

When you need rotors - get some beefier ones - Powerslot?

Get a good brake controller - http://brakesmart.net/. Set this up correctly - and the trailer brakes will take care if the 5th's weight. (keep them maintained annually).

Regardless of what you drive - try to keep you speed down. I know this is a problem in 2-lane highways because you don't want to be in the way. Should be no problem on a 4-lane.

It bothers me to see the diesel guys pass me - speeding with a big 5th. Momentum is a b!tch - and there's always a chance that a trailer tire could blow.

Dave

 

I have a 2003 dodge ram 1500 hemi i pull a 27' fifth wheel all the time no prob. i ahve done it since i bought the truck brand new. and it is a hide away fifth wheel hitch
fifth wheel

 

I have bought and sold 4 fifth wheel rv's over the last 10 years. The first was a 24ft and the last one, which I have for sale presently, is a 21ft. This 21ft weighs 3800lbs. I have a 4.7QC, which by the time I am fully loaded with all my gear will probably be all my truck should be hauling. I have the full tow package installed. The key to comfortably towing and saving your truck is weight. Don't buy without weighing it first. Don't accept the listed weight as accurate. The listed weights on the title and in the NADA Guiide are often completely inaccurate. Sometimes by as much as 2000 pounds. I'm retired and do a lot of RVing. But, I've towed my last fifth wheel. Not with my new Dodge. Forget that. Not at today's gas costs. I'm changing to a Pop-up trailer. Hope this helps you.