Rear axel seal leak?
#1
Rear axel seal leak?
i got a rear axel seal leak on my truck and i was just wondering if i use the synthetic gear oil 75w 140 do i still need to get the limited slip additive from dodge or does it already have the additive in it. im thinking that you need the additive if you use non synthetic oil.
Also i was wondering if anyone knows how much the rear diff holds for oil i can't find anything in the owners manual that tells me thanks.
Also i was wondering if anyone knows how much the rear diff holds for oil i can't find anything in the owners manual that tells me thanks.
#2
Do you plan on fixing the leak or was that something to start the conversation?...lol j/k
The synthetic fluids that have additive in them are Mobil 1, Royal Purple and i believe Amsoil. If you are unsure if they have the additive, then add some yourself. The rear diff takes 2.25qts, which equates to 2qts of fluid along with 4oz of additive.
I did a little write up in a post i made about how to change the rear seal yourself. I'll see if i can find it for ya. if your interested???
The synthetic fluids that have additive in them are Mobil 1, Royal Purple and i believe Amsoil. If you are unsure if they have the additive, then add some yourself. The rear diff takes 2.25qts, which equates to 2qts of fluid along with 4oz of additive.
I did a little write up in a post i made about how to change the rear seal yourself. I'll see if i can find it for ya. if your interested???
#3
#5
Do you plan on fixing the leak or was that something to start the conversation?...lol j/k
The synthetic fluids that have additive in them are Mobil 1, Royal Purple and i believe Amsoil. If you are unsure if they have the additive, then add some yourself. The rear diff takes 2.25qts, which equates to 2qts of fluid along with 4oz of additive.
I did a little write up in a post i made about how to change the rear seal yourself. I'll see if i can find it for ya. if your interested???
The synthetic fluids that have additive in them are Mobil 1, Royal Purple and i believe Amsoil. If you are unsure if they have the additive, then add some yourself. The rear diff takes 2.25qts, which equates to 2qts of fluid along with 4oz of additive.
I did a little write up in a post i made about how to change the rear seal yourself. I'll see if i can find it for ya. if your interested???
thanks for the help everybody.
#6
#7
I'm not sure where it's at but....
unbolt your drivehaft and get it out. Mark the nut and the very end of the pinion shaft. Then you'll want to count the turns as you take it off, When you get to the very end and the nut is ready to come off keep an eye where the mark is when it does come off. You'll want to use that as a reference to start the nut and begin when the marking pasts the pinion mark. Hopefully you followed that?
Just marke a referece point in the nut and count the turns and you'll be good. You'll want to tighten that nut up to the exact number of turns and then go slightly past your mark, For isnatnce, if your marking was at 3 O'clock, you'll wanna go to 4 O'clock. 1/8th turn is max because you'll crush the collar in too much and stress the bearings.
Use the original nut and washer. If you change either one you will alter everything.
unbolt your drivehaft and get it out. Mark the nut and the very end of the pinion shaft. Then you'll want to count the turns as you take it off, When you get to the very end and the nut is ready to come off keep an eye where the mark is when it does come off. You'll want to use that as a reference to start the nut and begin when the marking pasts the pinion mark. Hopefully you followed that?
Just marke a referece point in the nut and count the turns and you'll be good. You'll want to tighten that nut up to the exact number of turns and then go slightly past your mark, For isnatnce, if your marking was at 3 O'clock, you'll wanna go to 4 O'clock. 1/8th turn is max because you'll crush the collar in too much and stress the bearings.
Use the original nut and washer. If you change either one you will alter everything.